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I would suggest you change all of your vacuum lines and fuel line with all American made vacuum and fuel lines.

My gauge will read full when I fill it up, but from there is not close at all to be accurate. 25 miles and I am at 3/4 tank. 50 miles it reads half empty, 100 miles it shows empty. Now how bad is that... I use the odometer and reset it after every fill up and when I reach about 140-160 miles I fill it up.

Yup, we got off subject as we waited for the picture of the finished project. Looks great Ernie, you did a nice job with it.

I ordered a set of handlebar grips on Ebay and they arrived yesterday. I'm sure everyone thinks the left grip is glued on, well it isn't. I took a utility knife and cut it from the one end of the grip to the other and with my hands could open it up and pull it off. The handlebar was black and smooth no glue was used at all. The chrome tips on each grip are for show only they do not help hold on the grip. Once the left grip was off I tried to slide on my new grip to see how it fits. It only went on halfway. I pulled it back off put some Permatex glue on the handle bar and sprayed a few drops of WD40 inside the grip and it slipped right on. Within a few minutes the grip was secured in place.

The right grip is held on by the kill switch. I removed the Two screws holding the kill and starter switch and removed the top. There are two wires going to the kill switch so make sure you are careful and don't pull them apart. Inside the left grip is (photo enclosed) you will see where the throttle cable is inserted into the throttle grip. All I had to do was use a small needle nose pliers and pulled the stopper out of the grip. The grip came right off so I slid the new grip in and using the needle nose I was able to insert it in place. The white part of the grip sits inside the kill switch and when the kill switch is screwed back on it holds the throttle cable in place.

None of the grips are glued on at all. The entire time to change out both grips was about 15 minutes. Of course I tested it out and took it out for a ride, first making sure the kill switch was working first. Went for a 3 mile ride went WOT, released it, came to a stop and the idle was normal. Did this several times and all was well.

Now about the grips. They are great! My old grips were worn and slippery and my right hand seemed to always have a death grip on it. No longer the case as I can ride and just with my fingers I could accelerate with ease.





Left side installed


Right side installed

Hulk, I was sure I had him beat... I think he held my post then put in his. LOL

While I was writing JR posted...

Your radiator pressure cap should be near the top of your engine. I can't tell by the video but the cap you showed seems to be the overflow cap. The drain plug is just below the water pump which in your video you point to several times. It is the bottom allen wrench screw. Look at your video again and where you point to the clamp going into the water pump at the very bottom is the drain plug.

When you open your seat you should be looking at the pressure cap for the radiator, which is where you fill it. It also needs to be removed when you drain the old fluid out.