Junior
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Post by trailheadmike on Oct 16, 2011 14:54:22 GMT -6
I've got a pair of fog lights I'm putting on the scooter. I've read all the threads on the folly of using 2 55watt halogens so I've ordered two H3 LEDs. Here is the diagram from the box of the floods. Any one have a suggestion for a wire where I should be splicing in the RED LINE FROM THE SWITCH? Thanks in advance.
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Junior
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Post by trailheadmike on Oct 10, 2011 18:29:14 GMT -6
So I've written on a few mileage threads that my 257cc engine gets in the high 40's while others say they get in the 60s. Well, today I noticed for the first time some gas on the ground when I pulled in to work this morning. A little troubleshooting and I see that what the local auto parts guy called a "check valve" between the fuel pump and the carb was spraying away with gas when the engine was on. I have only recently smelled gas, so I'm guessing it was a small leak getting progressively worse. I just changed it out with a spare I had and no leak! Hopefully the mileage will follow. I have a question though. Here's what cracked: .bmsmotorparts.com/product_info.php/products_id/2655" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.bmsmotorparts.com/product_info.php/products_id/2655It looks like a filter, but it is empty (i.e., it's a housing with no filter). The autoparts guy said that it keeps the gas from sloshing back. I'm not sure how gas would get past the fuel pump though if it wanted to slosh so I don't know what this thing really does. Do I need this thing? Should I cut it out? What do you guys think??
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Junior
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Post by trailheadmike on Oct 4, 2011 18:07:16 GMT -6
Great suggestions, thanks.
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Junior
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Post by trailheadmike on Oct 2, 2011 16:41:21 GMT -6
After my recent deer encounter I started to repair my scooter. I decided to use Weld-on 16 for the body panels. I read all the threads about plastic welding but if I wait to do it (and do it right) I'm not sure I'll ever get to ride again! I'll live with the visible cracks. Unfortunately the Weld-on did not work on the black plastic, so I guess I'll try the plastic welding on that. I tried J&B on this plastic before as per some threads suggested but it doesn't work well.
I was just wondering if anyone had a preferred method for the black body plastic before I begin. Thanks in advance.
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Junior
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Post by trailheadmike on Sept 21, 2011 5:22:19 GMT -6
Wow! Great job. None of my mods involve welding!!
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Junior
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sorry guys
by: trailheadmike - Sept 16, 2011 12:59:36 GMT -6
Post by trailheadmike on Sept 16, 2011 12:59:36 GMT -6
Tvnacman is a stand up guy and has offered insight into my past scooter problems on many occasions. If he's offering something to this board its because he's looking to offer a good deal to fellow scoot riders.
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Junior
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Post by trailheadmike on Sept 3, 2011 11:40:32 GMT -6
Problem solved. It was indeed the brake switch, and now I'm back in business. Good thing to keep in mind. When you think its the starter switch, check if your brake light is coming on when pressed. That'll clue you in on the fact that it is the brake switch.
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Junior
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Post by trailheadmike on Sept 2, 2011 16:48:17 GMT -6
I'm about to install my new horn. It's a wolo bad boy type. The thing is, the way the mount bracket is set up, the trumpet is facing me the rider. It'll be a pain to make a bracket to have it face "out." I'm thinking this won't matter. After all, a car horn is under the hood and on my car faces sideways.
Opinions?? Thanks in advance.
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Junior
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Post by trailheadmike on Aug 31, 2011 11:14:55 GMT -6
Thanks JR. I just ordered the one you linked to. Should come next week and I'll post if this was the fix.
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Junior
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Post by trailheadmike on Aug 31, 2011 5:38:11 GMT -6
Great info JR. I have a Vog wiring diagram that the Big Guy posted once that I will send you in an email for the archives. That box switch you linked says for a 150cc, but I've found similar ones at scrappy's, flat squirrel and something called chinamotoparts for a 250. Thanks very much for your effort and input.
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Junior
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Post by trailheadmike on Aug 30, 2011 18:40:44 GMT -6
Plot thickens - It's not the switch. Before I took off that switch collar, i noticed the two blade connectors inserted into or near the brake switch. If I juggle those while hitting the start button and holding the brake she starts right up. Then, I check the right brake light, and its not lighting up. It could be a coincidence about the light, but it sounds like it might be the brake switch that's the problem. I'm not sure about the relationship between the brake switch and the safety though - are they two different things, or is the starter circuit merely looking to see if the brake circuit is complete??
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Junior
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Post by trailheadmike on Aug 29, 2011 20:56:29 GMT -6
Luke - that's what I was thinking just by experience with other switches in things from time to time. I just assumed the switch was sealed. OK, enough talk I guess, I need to open up the assembly and see what's going on
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Junior
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Post by trailheadmike on Aug 29, 2011 20:21:46 GMT -6
The scooter is a 2008 that has been in the rain three times since I bought it, second hand, in November. It's always garaged. It was also garaged by the original owner who had it for about a year and almost never rode it.
I just tried again and the same thing - nothing when the starter is pressed regularly, but when it is mashed a few times it engages. I was thinking corrosion in the switch itself??? Once it starts its good as gold.
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Junior
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Post by trailheadmike on Aug 29, 2011 19:51:20 GMT -6
If it was a bad fuse it wouldn't work, no?? Mine works - I just need to stab at it a few times.
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Junior
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Post by trailheadmike on Aug 29, 2011 18:02:52 GMT -6
I have a Vog 260 that has been running great, but today I hit the starter switch and nothing (gages do work when key is turned). I toggled the kill switch a few times to no avail. Then, holding the brake, I stabbed at the starter a few times (like 7) and then the starter motor engaged it started right up. I stopped for gas on the way home and the same thing happened. So I'm thinking that I perhaps have a bad/loose connection on the starter button, or maybe some bad contact within the switch itself, and I'm going to take off the collar that holds all the switches and see what's what. Anything else I should check while I'm in there? Thanks in advance.
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