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I had just rolled over 14,000 miles on my 2007 JCL MP250 when I got run over by an out of control car. Engine oil was changed at 300 miles and then at 1,000 miles and every 1,000 miles after that. Valves were checked and adjusted at 300 and 1,000 miles and then checked without need of further adjustment every 3,000 miles until the scoot was totalled in the wreck. Final drive oil was changed at 300 and 1,000 miles and then every 3,000 miles. I replaced my stock headlight bulbs with BA20D 35 watt halogen lamps. I did not want to chance using 55 watt lamps due to the Shark amplifier, speakers, and XM Satellite radio audio system I was running on it. This Scoot replaced a TANK 250 with a CF-Moto engine. I rolled up over 60,000 miles on it using the same service intervals. It had started using oil and was blowing blue smoke. The body panels were ragged and needed replacement. The radiator was weeping around the solder joints and needed to be replaced too. After adding up the cost to rebuild the old TANK or just buying the new JCl, the new JCL won the low bid contract. I still have some of the old TANK Scoot. I've been selling parts of it to a couple of people that have that model as well.

The entire stock cluster would go away. I would replace it with a sheet of aluminium to fill in the hole. All of them are flat so cutting a new panel and mounting it would be easy. The Acewell meter would simply mount to it's surface with the wires passing through a hole behind the meter. Acewell meters use only the fuel gage sensor and perhaps the coolant sensor if liquid cooled. Illumination is contained in the Acewell meter so just hooking that wire up to the tail or head light wire would take care of the panel illumination problem because that problem went away with the old panel. The aluminium panel can be painted to match it's surroundings. There may be a lot of unused area which would allow adding lots of other accessories like a GPS or perhaps a radio.

With so many Chinese Scooters and Motorcycles showing up with digital instruments we all know we'll need to find a solution. As for as this problem goes our analogue panels suck too! Sure, the Speedometer works but they are not accurate at all and some of us prefer miles instead of kilometres displayed. Acewell manufactures high quality and dependable digital meters for most any scooter or motorcycle. Instillation is also simple. The speedometer uses a sensor that straps on the lower fork leg that is tripped by a magnet attached to the rim. The tachometer connection is just the end of the wire wrapped around the spark plug wire. Just wrap it around 2 to 5 turns. If the tachometer is unstable when the engine is running simply wrap more or fewer turns around the spark plug wire. The fuel gage is programmable for different fuel sensors. If it reads incorrectly just reprogram the meter using one of the other resistance ranges. If you have an ohm meter you can quickly figure out which setting to use. All fuel sensors have 3 wires coming out of them. Connect your meter to two wires at a time and note the highest resistance reading. Use this reading for setting the fuel gage meter. These meters can be ordered with coolant temp gages for liquid cooled engines. I've seen a few web sites with a limited selection of Acewell meters but all of them are for large motorcycles incorporating far more indicators than our scoots would need. Perhaps one of the dealers that come here might think about applying to Acewell to carry their product line.

.acewell-meter.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.acewell-meter.com/
You can download the manuals for all their meters at the link above.

I put 60,000 miles on my first Chinese scoot. The ignition sensor went bad so it just quit running. It had started using oil and was showing a little blue smoke out the exhaust. The body panels were ragged and needed to be replaced. The radiator had developed tiny leaks around the solder joints. The dash needed replacing too as the speedometer had become erratic. The seat had a bad case of ugly too. After calculating the costs of a total rebuild I determined it would cost less to just order a new scoot, which I did. If you service your scoot and take proper care of it you should be able to do the same. BTY, I never used synthetic oil. I used Rotella 15w40 diesel engine oil. Just before it quit and I started parting it out the oil showing on the dip stick at every 200 mile fuel fill up would be down by 3/4 so I would top it off. When it was new It would be down by half on the dip stick at the 1,000 mile oil change.

Yep! Windshield must come off and then the dash top cover. Nothing is easy on these scoots. I had to pull my dash completely out to fix a bad solder joint connected to the left low beam headlight. This required pulling the entire nose off it. The bad solder joint was where the single wire from the High/Low beam switch on the handlebar control split into two wires leading to the two head lights. That solder joint had become a resistor causing high current in the circuit blowing the low beam filament in the bulb. You might want to consider going ahead and cutting out these soldered joints and replace them with automotive compression butt connectors. You'll find the wire leading from the handlebar switches behind the dash. Just follow the wires connected to the headlight bulb connectors to the soldered joints.

It will work on anything. The Speedometer uses a magnet and sensor on the front wheel and it's programmable for tire size. The original speedometer cable is not used or required. Some indicators will be unused that could indicate some other function. The Neutral gear shift indicator can be hooked to the fan radiator switch so it turns on with the Radiator fan. The sensors for fuel level and coolant temp should work as well.