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Post by ellpee on Jan 3, 2014 18:43:50 GMT -6
So far, almost every time I've had to go "plastic-diving" to attack some electrical problem with my scoot (2011 Roketa 250, but that's irrelevant for this post), I've had the thought that I'd like to reroute the wiring so next time it's easier to get at. However, if I could find the same connectors as are used on the original wiring harness, that would be my preference. Does anybody know of a good, inexpensive source for those things? Some are for two wires, some for three, or four, or six, or even as many as nine, but it's that same connector "family" -- those little white plastic fellers with the click retainer to keep them from pulling apart.
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Post by alleyoop on Jan 3, 2014 23:19:35 GMT -6
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Post by chefhl on Jan 4, 2014 17:44:16 GMT -6
Great link ! Always looking for that kind of stuff. Solder collars look cool if they do what I think they do.
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Post by ellpee on Jan 4, 2014 18:48:46 GMT -6
I see the makings here for a great new TV game show: "Stump alleyoop and win a million bucks." You always come through, dude!
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Post by earlylight160 on Jan 5, 2014 8:53:28 GMT -6
What a wonderful find. Resources like this are so useful to all of us. Thanks Allyoop.
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Post by ellpee on Jan 5, 2014 10:02:23 GMT -6
This HAS raised a question in my mind, though. I'd be leaving the original connector where it it, hidden away somewhere way up underneath the plastic, and cutting the wires to insert a new connector somewhere in a much more accessible place. Would adding an extra connector like that, for any of several electrical devices, result in a significant voltage drain? (As many of you know, I've been fighting for every bit of voltage because of a wimpy charging system.)
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Post by alleyoop on Jan 5, 2014 12:56:02 GMT -6
Unfortunately yes the more plugs you have the more juice it will loose along the way. Alleyoop
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Post by tvnacman on Jan 5, 2014 13:20:34 GMT -6
shorten the run and go with a larger size wire you will gain some voltage . There is resistance in wire the thinner the wire the less load it can hold resistance goes with heat . Shorter heaver wire has less resistance .
So the 3 yellows from the stator to the regulator use 12 or 14awg wire , use a heavy wire from the battery to the ignition switch . I bet you can pick up .5vdc in your charging system .
The electric fan beef up the wire I bet there is some to be made up there and the headlights .
I keep harnesses around for parts , post a pic of the plugs you need .
John
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Post by earlylight160 on Jan 5, 2014 14:10:17 GMT -6
If you wish to have connectors in more accessible locations, you could just cut the existing connectors off and solder the wires (covered with heat shrink tubing) where the original connectors were. This will keep the total number of connectors on a given wire run the same as the factory originals and just moves them to a more convenient location. Just my $.02 worth.
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Post by ellpee on Jan 5, 2014 16:48:45 GMT -6
If you wish to have connectors in more accessible locations, you could just cut the existing connectors off and solder the wires (covered with heat shrink tubing) where the original connectors were. This will keep the total number of connectors on a given wire run the same as the factory originals and just moves them to a more convenient location. Just my $.02 worth. Makes sense, although I'm not much with a soldering iron. Wife does stained glass work, though, and is really good; might need to recruit her.
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Post by ellpee on Jan 5, 2014 17:00:09 GMT -6
shorten the run and go with a larger size wire you will gain some voltage . There is resistance in wire the thinner the wire the less load it can hold resistance goes with heat . Shorter heaver wire has less resistance . So the 3 yellows from the stator to the regulator use 12 or 14awg wire , use a heavy wire from the battery to the ignition switch . I bet you can pick up .5vdc in your charging system . The electric fan beef up the wire I bet there is some to be made up there and the headlights . I keep harnesses around for parts , post a pic of the plugs you need . John Thanks for ideas and offer. Won't (I sincerely hope!) be doing any more electrical stuff until somebody comes through with that left switch assembly that's on eternal back order, at which time I'll be talking to you again about the headlight bulbs and maybe some of your connector spares. But about the heavier wires: Let's say for grins that I were to run heavier wires from the fan back up to its near-inaccessible connector. On the upstream side of that connector, however, there would still be the original gauge wires from connector to thermoswitch to fusebox to ignition switch to -- ta da! -- battery. So would I really gain anything from upgrading just that last short wire run, or would all those skinnier wires upstream be a voltage bottleneck? If the latter, it would seem I'd have to replace essentially every wire on the scoot to gain much voltage benefit. (I do see the benefit in your stator example, since there's nothing else between it and the regulator.)
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Post by tvnacman on Jan 5, 2014 18:21:59 GMT -6
The important circuits/high draw circuits , increase the wire size in the voltage path to the load and to ground . If you beef up the power line you need to match it with the ground so all conductors in a given circuit .
besides the 3 yellows to the regulator , I also did the fuse holder (12awg) from the battery out to the red on the ignition switch then split to the red to the regulator . I connected 10awg wire on the negative battery to the engine , split to the frame 12awg then to the green at the ignition switch and any other greens along the way .
John
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Post by ellpee on Jan 5, 2014 22:11:47 GMT -6
Lots of rewiring there, definitely sounds like a job for when fate traps me into removing all the plastic. I'd be tempted at that point to just ignore the stock wiring harness altogether for fan, headlights, and the various R/R and CDI connections, and start from scratch with 12ga or heavier wire and corresponding connectors. If I could minimize voltage drop on those parts of the system I think I'd be sitting pretty. Gauges and minor lights, horn, radio are no longer a big factor since I invested $100 or better in LEDs. Jeez, never would have dreamed a year ago that I'd be talking this way and almost understanding what I am saying.
Do have to say I'm surprised I seem to be the only Tank/Roketa/Jonway/YY250T/whatever driver who is having my degree of charging problems. Guess I just drew the short straw.
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I use the KISS method?
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Post by rich46 on Jan 6, 2014 18:26:49 GMT -6
Use solder paste for soldering. A small jar will last for years. Prepare your wire & connection, dip into paste place together. A snug fit is best. Have your iron hot wipe all old solder, crud off, with a nice shine tip add a little solder, & place on your connection. The heat will flow the solder into the connection, remove the iron. Test by pulling on each end, the paste does the work. Hope this helps!
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Post by chefhl on Jan 6, 2014 20:28:32 GMT -6
I always feel like I am just melting solder onto the wires and not really bonding them , but I do pretty good with copper pipe and a torch. I will try doing better prep and see how that works.
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