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Post by doyso on Nov 28, 2012 20:33:25 GMT -6
I went to a YouTube video so my question is already answered but the scooter still won't start even though there's a spark and fuel in the line leading to the carb etc.
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Post by doyso on Nov 28, 2012 21:06:36 GMT -6
The picture looks same as mine...hoses are hooked up correctly and there is a spark but the scooter will still not start. What other possible problems could there be?
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 28, 2012 21:51:13 GMT -6
Let me ask one question the way your turning it over LOOKING AT the CVT when you touch the starter WHICH WAY is the Variator Turning CLOCKWISE or COUNTER CLOCKWISE? Or If you can see the FLYWHEEL which is on the other side which has a fan on it WHICH way is it turning when you spin the starter CLOCKWISE OR COUNTER CLOCKWISE. Now you DO NOT HAVE TO UNHOOK the battery cable to hit the Starter, ALL YOU need to do is TOUCH BOTH TERMINALS on the SOLENOID with a SCREW DRIVER and it will spin your starter. Are you sure you have the SOLENOID CONNECTED TO THE BATTERY and then a wire from the SOLENOID TO THE STARTER. Also are the SMALL WIRES GOING TO THE SOLENOID which has a plug on it IS that PLUGGED INTO THE HARNESS. Well if you have SPARK, COMPRESSION and FUEL it should attempt to start. Now what I don't like is gas in the AIR FILTER TUBE. Take the plug out and crank it over and see if gas shots out of the PLUG hole. Also can you take a VIDEO of you attempting to start showing the carb area as you try to start it. Or pictures of the Carb area on both sides of the carb. Alleyoop
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Post by justbuggin2 on Nov 28, 2012 23:21:37 GMT -6
get a new plug for it the one you have is most likely fouled
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Post by doyso on Nov 28, 2012 23:39:14 GMT -6
It has a new plug. I will try your suggestions from the current response then get back to you. Per the initial post, it was running fine, then the next day, I removed the new plug and used a piston stop to remove the variator for checking the condition of the weights. From then on, it hasn't started. In the interim, everything related to starting is new, CDI, plug, battery, magneto, solenoid, petcock, etc. It has to be something that happened after the variator check and before the new stuff was added since the new parts have not seemed to make a difference.Thanks
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 28, 2012 23:57:30 GMT -6
When you put the piston stop in and you were getting the Variator off Did you really have to CRANK on the NUT to loosen it? And do you remember if the VARIATOR Rotated Some as you were loosening the Variator Nut?
What I am thinking is if the Variator and Shaft moved a little it might have gouged the WOODRUFF key OR the FLYWHEEL SLOT got damaged and now the Timeing is off. That is the only thing that could have happened if it was running before. The only other thing the CDI you put in is bad and is either to advanced or to retarded or way off.
So try putting the OLD CDI back in and see if that makes a difference. Alleyoop
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Post by doyso on Nov 29, 2012 17:51:42 GMT -6
It didn't start with the old CDI either. How do I diagnose and deal with the timing issue? My intuition says the spark is not igniting the fuel...duh. Would the timing affect that to the degree of absolutely nothing happening when the starter revs?
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Post by doyso on Nov 29, 2012 18:07:01 GMT -6
I tried the old CDI but it didn't start. The variator did turn very little and then I tightened the stopper a little more but not with excessive force.I couldn't remove the bolt because I only had a crescent wrench or whatever and I may have been turning it the wrong way. Does it unscrew by turning it counterclockwise or clockwise?
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 29, 2012 18:35:44 GMT -6
Bummer, I was hoping it was just the CDI. Both The Variator Nut and Clutch Nut you UNSCREW it COUNTER CLOCKWISE.
Here is another thought, How about the PLUG are you sure it is the RIGHT plug for that motor? What I mean is there are SHORT PLUGS with LESS Plugs and PLUGS with MORE THREADS. If the wrong plug is being used it may be to short and the ELCTRODE is NOT sticking into the CHAMBER and in that case the WHEN IT FIRES it would ground itself out because it would be fireing while in the head part.
Now ARE YOU SURE when testing for SPARK it is SPARKING when you hold it against the MOTOR?
I suggest you take the VALVE COVER off bring it up to TDC(TOP DEAD CENTER) TAKE PICTURES of the FLywheel to see where the timing marks are pointing AS WELL as the ROCKERS and CAM.
Now at this point you SHOULD BE ABLE TO grab the ROCKERS and ACTUALLY wiggle the a bit, THEY BOTH SHOULD BE OFF the LOBES on the CAME.
Something is OFF AND or the PLUG IS NOT FIREING, I mean shit you can take the INTAKE MANIFOLD completley off and squirt a tiny bit of gas down the intake and IT WILL FIRE IF YOU HAVE SPARK. Alleyoop
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Post by doyso on Nov 29, 2012 19:03:29 GMT -6
Yes, there is a spark when I hold the plug onto the motor. One of the parts that was new right BEFORE the attempted variator-adjust was the plug so it is not too short etc. The other info about the cam etc is beyond my present comprehension level. If fuel is in the line right before the carb and there is a spark, what's in the small space between them...the throttle or whatever opens and the fuel is s'posed to go to where the plug is firing etc. If there is suction I don't get what could be stopping the ignition.
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 29, 2012 19:27:12 GMT -6
Ok DO THIS, IF YOU HAVE SPARK IT WILL FIRE or IT WILL ATTEMPT TO FIRE AT LEAST ONCE: Look at the picture TAKE THE VACUUM HOSE OFF WHEREVER it is connect to. Get a paper or plastic cup put a TINY BIT OF GAS in the CUP then SQUEEZE the cup to make a point and POUR the tiny bit into the HOSE, stick the hose back on wherever it was connected and try to start it. Alleyoop
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Post by justbuggin2 on Nov 30, 2012 0:37:13 GMT -6
if what Alley says does not work take the plug out and place your finger over the hole and crank the motor over you should have pressure that will blow your finger off the hole if not you may have damage the piston
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 30, 2012 1:13:33 GMT -6
Yea, I did not want to discourage him, but I have my suspicions and it is not good. If it does not fire with dripping some gas straight down the intake it is bad news. I am sure trying to get the nut off a lot of pressure was applied and several tries at that and the crank rotating a little while doing it only two possible things could have happened. The piston stopper put a hole on the top of the piston or the woodruff key sheared and or the Slot on the flywheel is distorted and it is now out of time.
So Doyso, if it does not fire Then do like Justbuggin2 said. Take the PLUG OUT STICK YOUR FINGER in the HOLE THEN WITH YOUR RIGHT HAND OPEN AND HOLD THE THROTTLE WIDE OPEN and crank it. If it HAS COMPRESSION it will blow your finger off, if it doesn't you have a hole in the top of the piston from the Piston Stopper.
If it Does Blow your finger off, then you will have to CHECK the FLYWHEEL and the WOODRUFF key. Now to do that you WILL NEED a FLYWHEEL PULLER, but from what you have said already I do not think you have the right tools. So either you find a SCOOTER MECHANIC and pay him or you have to buy some tools to be able to work on the scoot.
Just so you know if it does not fire NOT GOOD in either case WOODRUFF KEY DAMAGED or FLYWHEEL SLOT damaged requires Flywheel puller TOOL or Hole in the Piston will require taking the whole top of the motor off. Alleyoop
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Post by doyso on Nov 30, 2012 16:38:02 GMT -6
Time to eliminate some of these possibilities. The spark plug DOES fire. My finger IS forced out of the spark plug hole when cranking.Now, what are the remaining possibilities?
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Post by doyso on Nov 30, 2012 17:14:55 GMT -6
The pouring fuel down the vacuum tube solution didn't work either.
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