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Post by doyso on Nov 24, 2012 19:43:35 GMT -6
I ran my 50cc scooter, a fixer-upper replacement for stolen one, one day and then the next day, I took out the spark plug and screwed in a piston-stop to be able to remove the gear in order to check the condition of variator weights. I was unable to remove the bolt and gave up. Since putting it all back together, I have been unable to start it even though new solenoid, magneto and coil have been installed. Fuel lines have also been checked and the fuel petcock is also new...fuel is getting to the carburetor or whatever. What else could be causing it not to start? It ran good before I used the piston stop etc as described above.
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Post by doyso on Nov 24, 2012 19:46:19 GMT -6
PS...the CDI is also new.
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 24, 2012 19:50:19 GMT -6
check the spark plug boot and do a compression test .
John
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 24, 2012 19:52:44 GMT -6
I just hope while trying to take the Variator off you did not Crank on it so hard that it put a hole in the piston. So first thing you want to do is check the compression on it. You can turn the Variator by hand and see if you do have some compression. If you don't you will be able to turn it without any sign of it hard to turn past the compression stroke. Alleyoop
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Post by doyso on Nov 24, 2012 20:31:58 GMT -6
It will be harder to turn at one point if there IS compression and will continuously turn easily if not?
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Post by JR on Nov 24, 2012 21:29:52 GMT -6
If it has a hole in the piston then it'll turn very easy because it'll have no compression.
JR
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Post by doyso on Nov 25, 2012 16:56:29 GMT -6
Turning the large gear wheel w/ belt attached etc. by hand, it is easy, then more difficult and then easy and then more difficult etc. It's inconsistent. Does that indicate there is no hole in the piston? Also, doesn't the fact that fuel is being vacuumed into e.g. the gas filter and line to carb a sign that pressure exists?
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 25, 2012 17:34:33 GMT -6
Sounds good BRO, and yes if it is creating suction that is a good sign also the turning the Variator and at every other revoltion of the crank it gets harder to turn indicates compression.
From your first post, NOW check for SPARK, take the spark plug out OR if you have a spare one take the BOOT CAP off the Spark Plug on the motor and stick the PLUG in the BOOT CAP and then HOLD IT ON THE Valve cover or MOTOR NOT ON the FRAME and crank it over. If your afraid to hold the PLUG against the Valve cover or MOTOR get some DUCK TAPE and tape it on MAKING SURE THE THREADED PART is TOUCHING the MOTOR and crank it and see if it SPARKS a nice BLUEISH color.
Get back on that TEST Spark or No Spark so we can then go down the Correct LEG of the problem. IF NO SPARK it is a different part of the system that has a problem. IF SPARK then it is another part of the system that has the problem. When a problem occurs on a scoot there are 3 possible MAIN systems, FUEL DELIVERY, ELECTRICAL or MOTOR. So the first thing to do is Try to Identify which LEG has the problem then we can test each part of the bad leg to find the culprit. Alleyoop
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Post by doyso on Nov 25, 2012 17:46:15 GMT -6
Is there supposed to be a significantly noticeable and bright spark? I already did the test and there was a small spark. Would the appropriate spark be easy to see on a sunny day? I may have to redo the test under a tarp or whatever to make sure since it's sunny here. If the spark is faint and the coil etc are new, what else would have an effect?
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Post by doyso on Nov 25, 2012 20:48:34 GMT -6
To be continued in a few days when new charger arrives in the mail.
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Post by doyso on Nov 27, 2012 20:55:18 GMT -6
Part II: I did the plug test under a tarp to check for spark. Yes, there is a spark so that means there is a problem with one of the other "legs?" If there is a spark, does that definitely verify that I have installed the new CDI, solenoid,magneto and ignition coil properly?
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Post by justbuggin2 on Nov 27, 2012 22:48:33 GMT -6
they should be ok try spraying a little gas into the carb and see if will start for a moment if so then you will need to check the feul system intake manifold for cracks and the vac lines
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Post by doyso on Nov 28, 2012 16:59:40 GMT -6
Not clear as to what "spray" and "manifold" mean but there is gas pooled inside the clear gas filter and gas in the portion of the black tube after the filter, the end that plugs into the carb or whatever. Since the start button and kill switch do not work even though the wires appear to be connected, I am hot-wiring the starter by using the positive wire from the battery since I am tired of using the kick-start. I'll figure that out as soon as I can get it started. Nonetheless, it still won't start after I disconnect the gas line at the carb point and drip gas directly into the carb.
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Post by doyso on Nov 28, 2012 17:44:26 GMT -6
Is there supposed to be suction in the line from carb to filter to when trying to start?
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 28, 2012 17:56:33 GMT -6
No not on the FUEL HOSE, but there should be a VACUUM HOSE that is connected to the Fuel Pump and as the motor turns it creates suction and opens the Pump and allow fuel to flow to the FUEL FILTER then to the CARb. Maybe you have the hoses connected wrong. Can you put up pictures of the carb area and hoses. Alleyoop
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