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Post by dertbikdennis on Mar 22, 2012 19:01:58 GMT -6
The picture is correct...5 wires total 4in the plug and the red/white as pictured
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Post by JR on Mar 22, 2012 19:20:05 GMT -6
OK finding info on the Eagle scooters especially wiring diagrams is like pulling hen's teeth but the Lifan and Lance scooters use the same R/R set up and I'm sure I can find a diagram on one of them but just like in the link I posted from the guy who had the Lifan on dawg the single red/white wire does go to your autochoke.
This makes since too because you measured the voltage and I'm sure that was at idle and it's enough to power the autochoke and not much of anything else. It's a funny set up but it works.
Now if you read what the dude on dawg done he put some 18W halogen bulbs in his headlights, got brighter lights and less amp pull. You need to also convert the rest of the bulbs to LED's. It does make a difference and can easily gain you anywhere from 0.5 to a full 1 volt on the charging system. Since we found the R/R if you think it's suspect they are cheap on this site.
Also last but not least a fully charged battery is a must, a battery needs to hold 12.5 or more volts and this helps the charging system stay up.
The LED change out will not only gain you some voltage but a lot brighter lights too a win, win situation.
Other than these suggestions if you want more then I'll still say the 11 pole stator upgrade will give you a lot better system.
JR
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Post by JR on Mar 22, 2012 19:21:56 GMT -6
Also make absolutely sure the engine itself is grounded to a good ground sourse.
JR
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Post by dertbikdennis on Mar 22, 2012 19:41:17 GMT -6
My grounds are good covered that inside and out. I guess my luck with ending up with an "oddball" harness set up really made this tough. My thought right now is to go with the 11pole stator and new RR and some more rewiring... I think I would like to keep my lights setup the way they are and maybe swap in a new harness to make this easier to work on in the future.What do you suggest for the parts?
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Post by JR on Mar 22, 2012 21:59:08 GMT -6
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Post by dertbikdennis on Mar 23, 2012 4:51:38 GMT -6
thanks so much for the help here . I guess I need to start with a flywheel puller and check some measurements.
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Post by tvnacman on Mar 24, 2012 6:54:54 GMT -6
I have been working a lot of overtime , so i have not been on here too much . I did this conversion I have all the parts to to do it again , i could set it up almost a complete plug and play . PM me if your interested .
John
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Post by JR on Mar 24, 2012 6:57:20 GMT -6
NO doubt! Sorry John I forgot that and keep watch in case he needs a little help and advice.
JR
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Post by dertbikdennis on Apr 15, 2012 13:02:29 GMT -6
well guys this is where i'm at now.....installed the 11 pole stator and flywheel ( not to hard) I have install a 7 wire r/r and wired it up per instruction here. But still having issues. I have tested my stator leads ( 3 yellows) and have 3.6v ac at idle and 4.6v dc seems way low from your info on installing this system. I thought I was to see 14v ac on 2 leads and 7v on the third?.....I have rewired headlight using the white lead from the r/r harness ( choke wire) and it has a hard time keeping the relay locked as the voltage is weak 6-8 volt area.
When I test at the battery I can maybe get 13.2v twisting the throttle up ...with headlights off(unplugged) ....I ran a decticated green wire from the stator to r/r thinking that maybe this was not to be at ground but I tested the unplug lead from the stator and green in ground coming from the new 11 pole stator.
....I'm really having a difficult time here
....I am using the stock rukus ign switch that I have feed a battery lead to direct from battery then turn on the black wire from the harness to old switch.
....When bike is running I have to use thumb swith to shut it off as it won't shut off with the key
....I have the choke unplugged also ...it seems to have affect on how it is idling ?? possibly due to low voltage?
Just tring to throw out the things i'm thinking
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Post by sprocket on Apr 15, 2012 13:28:20 GMT -6
I have red and black going to power the CDI and blue and white is the pick-up trigger. My red and white runs to a bullet connection and powers the enricher with AC about 13 volts
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Post by dertbikdennis on Apr 15, 2012 14:48:58 GMT -6
Thanks for the info but were way beyond that now. I have converted to 11 pole stator and a 7wire R/R to get the most out of the system I can...but still have some issues
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Post by justbuggin2 on Apr 15, 2012 18:27:32 GMT -6
i just finish up my install i have use much heaver wires than are in the wiring harness i ran 5 new wires from the stator to the r/r 3 yellows, 1 green, and a red i did not hook the green from the stator or r/r to chassis the 3 yellow and 1 green wires just connects the stator to the r/r the new red wire is the main lead to the battery i splice the org. red into this wire the black from the r/r i spliced into the switch side of the org. harness at the switch the white wire i connected to a relay to power my lights i am getting 14 volts constant at idle and at speed
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Post by tvnacman on Apr 15, 2012 18:46:58 GMT -6
here is a test for you , do it quick so you don't burn anything out . Take the black wire from the regulator disconnect it . Connect your meter to the battery start the engine then "momenterlly put the black wire from the regulator to ground the voltage will come right up"
unplug the plug on the stator , with your meter on acv read between all 3 yellow wires while the scooter is running .
either you have a very heavy load on your system (weak battery) or the stator you got may be weak . report back what the readings are from the above .
I replaced the thin wires from the factory harness with 14awg wire , from stator to regulator and from battery to fuse to regulator and key switch .
John
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Post by justbuggin2 on Apr 15, 2012 19:50:24 GMT -6
ok i just made this wiring diagram of how my sytem is wired hope it helps  |
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Post by dertbikdennis on Apr 15, 2012 21:52:16 GMT -6
the acv are 3.6..3.6..4.3 with harness plugged in. The diagram is correct to what I have done. I had a problem with no charging before this swap and still have the problem with all the new parts.... The relay will not stay "locked" because the voltage is weak on my white wire. I disconnected the lights,choke, to just work on charging issue. Maybe explain this black wire test again...remove it from the R/R ..connect meter to battery....start the bike and momntary contact the wire to ground? and watch the voltage??
also I added 2 yellow wires to my harness (16ga) and used the third yellow in the harness.I also ran a green direct from r/r to stator. I have checked this and it is at ground
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