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Post by Saber on Sept 24, 2013 13:57:48 GMT -6
wanted to give everyone an update here. found one issue. the intake seal had a small line in it, so there's at least one cause for my lean condition.
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Post by Saber on Sept 23, 2013 17:24:03 GMT -6
well I figured one thing out. my air/fuel mix screw is for fuel and not air. because it is on the engine side so screwing it in makes it more lean. Thats why the bike runs better with it about 3 1/2 to 4 turns out. Stock it was 2 1/4 turns out. So now I know I need a larger pilot jet. Sorry if I created some confusion out there. Funny how different a 250 is from a gy6 150.
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Post by Saber on Sept 23, 2013 16:54:40 GMT -6
So stock would be a #35??? I new the previous owner and the pilot jet was never changed. My plug is white that's lean right?
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Post by Saber on Sept 23, 2013 14:52:31 GMT -6
Sense my pilot jet isn't stamped does anyone know what the stock pilot jet size is?
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Post by Saber on Sept 23, 2013 7:58:05 GMT -6
hey JR. I verified the valves about a week ago following your guide. Also I pulled the fluid needle out, and on this bike it's not adjustable but I was able to put a small washer under it. It did reduce the the burping sound on acceleration but I still have a loss of power on the mid range.
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Post by Saber on Sept 23, 2013 4:44:32 GMT -6
It's the honda clone 244cc. I probably should of posted that before doing all the changes I cleaned the carb. Because of the nature of how broke everything was before removing the air box and such there is no repair its only replace and the cost does not justify replacing.
I also should of posted I did a plug check and it leads me to believe that I am still lean on the main jet but I need to get the air leak / running lean on low and mid range before switching that out. Going to pull the skin off tonight to get access again a buddy reminded me that the intake on these bikes use O-rings it could be as simple as that.
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Post by Saber on Sept 21, 2013 19:33:10 GMT -6
Okay i'm the second owner of a jonway 54b honda clone 250cc. I have done most of the maintenance to the bike because I knew the previous owner. Here's the long story. Started to die on acceleration about a month ago it started as a stumble and over a month it turned into a stumble and die. Found the plug to be white and not to good looking. Further digging brought me to a cracked air box a broken air filter mount and a crack in the snorkel going from the air box to the carb. So I decided this is the time to dump the air box and go with a Uni filter. I had great success on my Znen 150 and loved the results. Anyway. I replaced all vacuum lines and tees. removed all emissions equipment. All new fuel lines and filter. Oiled and installed Uni filter. Changed the main from a 102 stock OEM jet to a 120. and replaced stock NGK with a iridium. Bike stumbles and burps from 3000 to 5000 rpm and smooth cruises at 5500. After a 20 mile ride the plug looks white with a splash of tan. Also the air mix needle dialed all the way in and the bike runs?  I found this out while trying to get a RPM change while trying to adjust air/fuel mix. I need some thoughts and ideas please. oh and almost forgot yes my valves are good  |
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Post by Saber on Jul 5, 2013 4:29:13 GMT -6
No the weaker the CLUTCH springs are the better it will grab. Don't forget the clutch pads get thrown out by centrifigual force so if the springs are strong it takes more rpms to get the pads to get thrown out and grab the bell to turn the wheel. This is very common on the 250+ scoots, and the reason is people start of slow like 5 miles per hour and the like anything the more it weighs the more power has to be applied to the bell from the pads to hold and turn the wheel and move the weight. So if people would learn to give it some good rpms starting off and then back off the pads will last much longer without getting glazed so quickly. Just take mine TRIKE which by the way is heavier than your 250s, comes in at 350lbs and I weigh 180lbs. But I put in a Performance NCY CLUTCH 2 years ago and JUST 2 months ago it was starting to shudder taking off. I took the clutch off and sanded the pads and I am back in business. BUt I give it throttle to get it moving then you can backoff. Alleyoop I fully agree with you but to put this into practice is hard. I live and work in a heavy traffic area. I drive 7 miles to work and I go through 10 stop lights. Most of the time I'm not the first in line and the cars sitting in front of me tend to ease off the line at a snails pace as the car behind me is already up my tail pipe. Has anyone found a better fix then sanding every 200 miles or using bug killer? |
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Post by Saber on Jun 20, 2013 13:38:09 GMT -6
I hear yah ellpee. My goal is to stop the squeaking sound. The rubber has worn away do to the cover vibrating. It was made worse by the previous owner missing one of the two bolts. That's why I am looking. I could RTV it but I like having access and really don't want the mess. Funny that something so cheap is this hard to locate.
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Post by Saber on Jun 20, 2013 6:20:11 GMT -6
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Post by Saber on Jun 17, 2013 6:41:12 GMT -6
So Blue is 2000 now I thought that was the RED ones Alleyoop? Im back to being a newbee GREEN HORN again. I know so much about the gy6 150 but some of that knowledge is being put on its head. I asked my buddy who gave me the scooter if he had the original contra spring he said he needed to look for it. I did get the OEM 21 gram rollers though.
Skyrider your right it is very violent on take off. I wait for traffic in front of me to get going and I just gun it. Maybe thats a bad idea but I don't feel like the bull is going to buck me off when I do that.
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Post by Saber on Jun 16, 2013 7:26:47 GMT -6
Okay I got the scooter yesterday a few corrections it has a blue spring with the 18 gram sliders. Also while riding the clutch grabs at 2000 Rpms it idles at 1500. And when the clutch grabs it grabs and slips until you reach about 2800 rpms. Also it's the jonway version of the 54b. Hope this helps.
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Post by Saber on Jun 15, 2013 7:10:30 GMT -6
The belt length is 1000. It does have a yellow contra spring in it. And it has 18 gram sliders. I might switch everything back to stock and give it a try??
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Post by Saber on Jun 14, 2013 8:03:45 GMT -6
Okay as I have read about all the clutch issues with the 250 this one seems to be opposite.
I am about to buy a friends Roketa 54B with the honda Clone 250. It has always had an issue with the clutch, I've sanded it I've cleaned the bell but nothing seems to fix the issue of very LOW RPM grabbing. The bike idles around 1800 to 2000 but if you give it the slightest throttle the bike starts to go you hear the belt chirp as it slips and pops around the pulley and it jerks it until about 5MPH. Once moving there is no clutch slip no issues drives nice up to 65MPH. So this isn't a slip issue this is a grabbing issue. So I am trying to figure out why does this clutch grab so quickly and at such low RPM's.
My experience is with Gy6 150's and my 150 grabbed around 2800Rpm
My only thought now is "Does It just have a defunct Clutch assembly and should I Just swap the whole thing and start over"?
Also I know great places to buy parts for my 150 but they don't sale parts for 250. Who is good reliable and trusted?
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Post by Saber on Jun 6, 2013 4:12:03 GMT -6
Yeah you cant go wrong with those stems from Kurvey Girl. Did my scoot and both my buddies scoots. You should change them as part of your first PDI but just like your car, if your due new tires change your stems.
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