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Post by Saber on Sept 27, 2012 12:29:00 GMT -6
So being an electrician I know this smell very well. Burnt plastic is the smell so I'm going to say its blown. Already ordered a new one this should be the last bit. Thanks again everyone for all the help.
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Post by Saber on Sept 26, 2012 3:49:35 GMT -6
Well if everything is good now with Stator and R/R installed and the ENRICHER was BLOWN before you installed the new parts then all you really need is a new ENRICHER. Or you can test it just take it OFF THE CARB leav it plugged in before starting the scoot and lay it on its side. Then put your thumb over the hole and start the scoot LEAVE YOUR thumb over the hole THAT IS LIKE acting as if the ENRICHER IS FEEDING IT EXTRA FUEL WHEN COLD. Then in a couple minutes the PLUNGER on the ENRICHER laying there on its side should start to EXTEND OUT and within 3-4 or so minutes it should be out about 1/4 of an inch. If it doesn't then touch the ENRICHER it should be hot IF it was getting voltage to heat it up. Alleyoop Okay thanks for the info I will try that today when I get home.
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Post by Saber on Sept 26, 2012 3:35:21 GMT -6
i have an enricher to wish i know when i ship the other parts Hey me to
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Post by Saber on Sept 25, 2012 18:13:57 GMT -6
i thinking that what Jr is saying is the case here i have an 8 pole stator and the matching flat 4 pin reg i can send you I may just have to accept this but I can't believe I lost my OEM Stator while on the road and it left me there. Then I put on a locally bought Stator it lasts a day before I loose my lights (BIKE STILL RUNS THOUGH) and then the Stator I bought online is DOA? ? (But the bike still runs). Okay starting to accept this.Do you like cats or dogs? I like dogs but I also like polar bears. Justbuggin2 I will PM you. I'm interested. Big thanks go out to Justbuggin2. I got the stator and regulator and installed them with no issue and most everything works. Took the the bike out for a 15 mile ride and had lights Now for the the one thing. After installing one of the regulators I bought new I reved the engine and blew out all my lights. When all that happen my enricher was plugged in. Never had an issue prior to this whole mess now I do. Do you think I blew it out to. It seems like it is stuck on. Idle is super high and I had to make an adjust to the idle just to be able to take it for a ride? Is it Time for a new thread?
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Post by Saber on Sept 12, 2012 18:22:54 GMT -6
Saber got to remember the charging system has nothing to do with the scooter running. It's a AC fired system so if you have correct voltage out of the red/black wire going to the CDI it runs. In fact you can start the scooter with the kickstarter with a totally dead battery or no battery at all. Prove it to yourself, start the scooter and unhook the battery. The one coil on the stator designated for the CDI has nothing to do with the charging system and the other coils for the charging system have nothing to do with the scooter running. JR Oh I know that. Sorry I was just ranting and raving. So I decided to put my first replacement stator back on and check voltages again. While the OEM regulator is plugged in I had 40vac white 14.5vdc red and on the yellow I started with 12vac but after about 5 minutes of running it dropped to 9vac and after about 10 minutes of idling the voltage dropped to 2 vac. If I unplug just the yellow then my lights come on bright. So Im hoping I'm on to something here my OEM R/R is not working this was my original thought after I replaced the stator the first time so I bought a replacement from online and my lights fried? The locally bought replacement R/R got really hot my lights didn't turn on at all. So where am I at here?
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Post by Saber on Sept 12, 2012 12:06:24 GMT -6
i thinking that what Jr is saying is the case here i have an 8 pole stator and the matching flat 4 pin reg i can send you I may just have to accept this but I can't believe I lost my OEM Stator while on the road and it left me there. Then I put on a locally bought Stator it lasts a day before I loose my lights (BIKE STILL RUNS THOUGH) and then the Stator I bought online is DOA? ? (But the bike still runs). Okay starting to accept this. Justbuggin2 I will PM you. I'm interested.
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Post by Saber on Sept 12, 2012 11:14:40 GMT -6
I'm confused? Born that way. Are you testing the white and yellow wire to ground? Again simply put both wires should read the same equally unplugged from the R/R revved up on the tune of 40Vac plus. Now when you plug things in the yellow wire does carry most of the load but it should read 12Vac plus even with it plugged in and the lights on. Not trying to sound like a stuck record but all your tests still indicate bad stator. JR Okay maybe I am confused on how I am supposed to be testing it. Stator unplugged I have have 12 to 17 vac to ground on each leg. if I test across yellow and white together I have 40vac? So are you saying Im supposed to have 40vac on white to ground?
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Post by Saber on Sept 12, 2012 7:03:22 GMT -6
Okay I'm starting to feel like I'm all over the map here. At the stator I have 30+ vac and when I revve the engine I get 40+ combined. I have 12 to 17 vac on each leg of the stator. This is a constant. After I plug the stator in I maintain the voltage on the white wire off the stator but at the yellow wire it will maintain voltage until I start plugging bulbs in then I get a drop in voltage if I unplug these items the voltage drop is maintained. And I get 0 to 2.5 vac max. If I go back to the stator I still have 12 to 17 vac on that line. I've pulled the wire harness and stripped it I can find any breaks or burns in the line only really crappy solider work. Maybe it's a cold solder joint in the wire? I haven't given up yet but what a PITA.
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Post by Saber on Sept 11, 2012 7:18:29 GMT -6
would check the taillight harness and sockets next the wires can get shorted out in the sockets by the spring that holds pressure on the bulb base Will do thanks for the insight.
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Post by Saber on Sept 11, 2012 3:47:36 GMT -6
Okay here is what I have so far. All body panels have been pulled off and all bulbs removed. No shorts to ground. If I install just one bulb doesn't matter where I get continuity to ground via the yellow wire that goes to the regulator. So this mean no shorts to ground via the harness. The only thing I can think of to do now is one by one while the bike is running start putting things back together and see at what point I loose my lights. I did a test yesterday with just the front lights installed and all wires going to the OEM regulator where they are supposed to be. Installed the headlight and the two running lights they where bright did not flicker and didn't blow when I revved the engine. So I will continue with one piece at a time until something changes. Right now I my suspect is the instrument cluster. Oh the joy of scooter ownership. Attachments:
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Post by Saber on Sept 10, 2012 7:14:41 GMT -6
Alrighty then. She's getting tore apart tonight. GOOD TIMES. if I find anything I will post results. If I don't find anything I'll be back.
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Post by Saber on Sept 9, 2012 18:09:16 GMT -6
Thanks JR. I went back and verified that at the connector directly off the stator I have these voltages. If I go to the connector at the regulator. I have 40vac on the white unplugged from the regulator and 2.5vac on the yellow unplugged from the regulator. So something is crazy and I hate this because I'm an electrician by trade but without a proper diagram I'm scratching my head. My thought now is short to ground because I read 0 ohms from yellow wire at the R/R while disconnected to ground. Is it time to pull body panels and trace the wire harness?
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Post by Saber on Sept 9, 2012 6:37:33 GMT -6
Oem my stator was 8 pole I replaced it twice with an 8 pole. The first 8 pole I replaced it with had a yellow and white wire coming from it the second 8 pole just has 2 yellows. I know from what I've read my voltages are correct from my stator. I still have the question of should I be reading continuity to ground through the yellow wire that goes to the R/R?
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Post by Saber on Sept 8, 2012 18:10:25 GMT -6
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Post by Saber on Sept 8, 2012 16:59:26 GMT -6
Okay I went from a flat pin 4 across regulator to a 2 by 2 regulator
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