Sophomore
Currently Offline
Posts: 68
A+'s: 0
Joined: Apr 15, 2012 8:56:54 GMT -6
|
Post by Saber on May 9, 2015 12:38:46 GMT -6
Testing the coil is a not so scientific process and isn't reliable. This scooter has a DC type CDI and if you think it's an electrical issue then check the wires especially the black one on the CDI. JR Yup that was my first step I replaced CDI but after still having the same problem I thought about the coil and wanted to test it with out throwing more money just to change a part. I found a few videos that made me feel as if I was testing it correctly and went ahead and replaced the coil. The coil was truely acting like some of the videos i saw were it would run great for 15 to 20 minutes then it would just crap but it would feel like I ran out of fuel. So I would just wait a minute (in my case on the side of the road) then its like it didn't even happen. She has made it past the first hurdle, I ran her with the new coil for about 20 minutes in and around my neighborhood. But I'm not ready to say she is fixed yet until I give her a full 20+ mile run out on the real road. |
|
Sophomore
Currently Offline
Posts: 68
A+'s: 0
Joined: Apr 15, 2012 8:56:54 GMT -6
|
Post by Saber on May 5, 2015 16:33:29 GMT -6
I have the Jonway 54 250cc with the verical honda clone
I just got her running and running good with all the carb fuel pump issues now after about 7 to 10 miles she starts acting as if she is running out of gas or more like someone hit the kill switch. I just got done with this issue I am pretty sure my issue is none longer fuel but maybe electrical? I think this because she runs so well after a 5 minute break.
So I pulled the ignition coil and tested across the 2 top posts i got 3 ohms when I test post to inside the plug boot I got nothing. Am I testing this right??
|
|
Sophomore
Currently Offline
Posts: 68
A+'s: 0
Joined: Apr 15, 2012 8:56:54 GMT -6
|
Post by Saber on Apr 17, 2015 8:40:00 GMT -6
Were it me, I'd take the old one down to Autozone, Pep Boys, cycle shops, etc. SOMEBODY should be able to match it. Only question might be the pressure rating. I'm with you on that one. Only problem is these guys get lost real quick if they can't look it up in their computer. |
|
Sophomore
Currently Offline
Posts: 68
A+'s: 0
Joined: Apr 15, 2012 8:56:54 GMT -6
|
Post by Saber on Apr 17, 2015 6:54:18 GMT -6
I might have to keep looking that sites prices are crazy outrages.
Subtotal Amount :
$21.00
Handling :
$3.50
Shipping :
$15.00
Tax Amount :
$0.00
Total Amount :
$39.50
|
|
Sophomore
Currently Offline
Posts: 68
A+'s: 0
Joined: Apr 15, 2012 8:56:54 GMT -6
|
Post by Saber on Apr 16, 2015 5:30:04 GMT -6
|
|
Sophomore
Currently Offline
Posts: 68
A+'s: 0
Joined: Apr 15, 2012 8:56:54 GMT -6
|
Post by Saber on Mar 29, 2015 16:08:05 GMT -6
Tried a few things leaning and making it more rich. End result was increase the main to 127 and pilot to a 38 and move the needle to position 3, mixture screw is 2 1/4 turns out. I was able to complete a 10 mile test drive in traffic and highway speeds with out one cough or jerk. Its been a year sense the bike was able to do that and as it seems all because I was sucking fuel from the vacuum side of the oem pump. Thanks for the help guys.
|
|
Sophomore
Currently Offline
Posts: 68
A+'s: 0
Joined: Apr 15, 2012 8:56:54 GMT -6
|
Post by Saber on Mar 24, 2015 7:48:29 GMT -6
Okay thanks,
Looks like I will have some sun today so I will give this a try.
|
|
Sophomore
Currently Offline
Posts: 68
A+'s: 0
Joined: Apr 15, 2012 8:56:54 GMT -6
|
Post by Saber on Mar 23, 2015 8:47:27 GMT -6
And when you say adjust the mixture screw I should be turning it counter clockwise to richen it correct?
|
|
Sophomore
Currently Offline
Posts: 68
A+'s: 0
Joined: Apr 15, 2012 8:56:54 GMT -6
|
Post by Saber on Mar 23, 2015 7:37:04 GMT -6
Sorry for the delay guys. Weather and Kids keep me away from even the simplest jobs. Okay swapping the pump made a huge difference. But when I put everything back the way I had the carb prior to this issue I now have new problems. Just about cured the "grab the throttle and go" issue I had. After about a full 20 minute warm up and just ridding around my neighborhood the scooter wants to idle at a low rpm and will sometimes quite. If I rev it up and release on the center stand it will hold RPM's for a longer then normal duration and slowly creep down back to a below ideal idle spot, and when I am out on the road doing around 55mph she will jerk and miss but I hear no sounds out of the pipe or anything. I will hear popping if I am on the center stand and rev to 5000 and hold it there. This is LEAN right?  Current set up Uni Dual layer filter, 125 main, 37 pilot, needle in 4th or the furthest raised position. |
|
Sophomore
Currently Offline
Posts: 68
A+'s: 0
Joined: Apr 15, 2012 8:56:54 GMT -6
|
Post by Saber on Feb 2, 2015 16:02:20 GMT -6
Alrighty then I guess I will try that the pump. I will let you guys know the results after it comes in.
|
|
Sophomore
Currently Offline
Posts: 68
A+'s: 0
Joined: Apr 15, 2012 8:56:54 GMT -6
|
Post by Saber on Feb 1, 2015 16:07:54 GMT -6
Since it was running good for a couple of years and now it is running LEAN all of a sudden, I think you have an AIR LEAK. So check your intake manifold for cracks and or some hoses with cracks. If it runs good throttle up normally and does not want to die when coming to stops your valves are fine. It is all fuel delivery problem. Now if all of a sudden it got really cold out then it needs more fuel. Remember motors 60+ temps less fuel -60 more fuel. Alleyoop This issue really rares it ugly head when it's hot outside. Im thinking along the same lines as you I pulled the intake and found a fuel ready RTV and used that around where the intake meets the engine. I have also replaced all vacuum lines and tee's. A question to go along with this is my fuel pump, it is OEM and delivers fuel just fine because I can cruise wide open for miles its just starting off thats my issue here. Anyway I am always finding about a teaspoon of fuel on the vacuum side of the pump. Is this normal or could I be pulling air and fuel from this. |
|
Sophomore
Currently Offline
Posts: 68
A+'s: 0
Joined: Apr 15, 2012 8:56:54 GMT -6
|
Post by Saber on Feb 1, 2015 5:32:30 GMT -6
Well I tried to upload a picture of where my valves are set but it said the forum has exceeded its upload limit. My pic is only 216kbs.
The picture would have shown where I marked the original mark with a sharpie and the new location. Its about half a mark from original on both intake and exhaust.
|
|
Sophomore
Currently Offline
Posts: 68
A+'s: 0
Joined: Apr 15, 2012 8:56:54 GMT -6
|
Post by Saber on Jan 31, 2015 11:21:32 GMT -6
Question--is that jonway a 54 B? if so ,you gonna need to adjust the valves with a feeler gauge with the engine set exactly on the timing marks to assure the cylinder is top dead center--probably need to do that with any engine--check our tutorial on setting the timing marks ---setting by ear is not the best way on this scoot--good luck--fflintstone I wish, No its the honda clone type that you adjust while the engine is running. |
|
Sophomore
Currently Offline
Posts: 68
A+'s: 0
Joined: Apr 15, 2012 8:56:54 GMT -6
|
Post by Saber on Jan 31, 2015 9:34:58 GMT -6
JR, its a honda clone so I followed the procedure from this site. I wish there was a way to check with a feeler gauge. My ears aren't that great that's why I had a friend listen to and check them as well.
alleyoop, I've tried that but this is the reason why I am asking. Ive had this bike for several years now and I am pretty mechanically inclined so I just wanted to be sure I am still on the right track and not barking up the wrong tree. So these symptoms are air fuel related and not something else?
Its just odd to me that this bike ran so well for almost 2 seasons with the 2 stage uni and a 120 main and a 38 pilot and then it just started doing this. Thats why I swapped the carb at first thinking it would be something as simple as that but when it had the same issues with the new carb I started changing jets, and adjusting the needle to the point of shimming it. Nothing would solve this mid range cut out. All the the changes listed above were done one at a time over a 5 month period. I would always wait for the bike to completely warm up for at least 20 minutes before any adjusting or road trial.
|
|
Sophomore
Currently Offline
Posts: 68
A+'s: 0
Joined: Apr 15, 2012 8:56:54 GMT -6
|
Post by Saber on Jan 30, 2015 13:34:23 GMT -6
I've got a Jonway 54b, Honda Clone, about 3 years ago I dropped the emissions and air intake and went with a Uni 2 stage and bike ran great with a simple raise of the needle and up jet from the stock 105 to 120
Starting half way though last year I have struggled with this issue and I know im missing something,
When stopped at a light if I go from zero to 1/4 or to 1/2 throttle the bike will die as if I just shut it off. If I ease it she will start slow might hick up but will then reach full speed no issues. Bike idles great and runs well at WOT.
What I've done
Valves, Checked checked again and doubled checked by a friend
Replaced the carb
Changed main jets installed 115,120,125,130,135
Changed pilot jet installed 30,32,35,37,38,40
raised the needle shimmed the needle lowered the needle.
Finally I retrofitted a pumper carb (the one you would find a Yamaha clone) on the thing thinking my problem is leaning out in the mid range and this would help. Bike ideals strong and runs strong as long as I don't wrap the throttle from a stop.
HELP!!
|
|
