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Post by insanetexan on Mar 22, 2017 18:22:34 GMT -6
Ellpee that is why I am wondering about the CDI cause as I am to understand the CDI is suppose to advance the timing some how. I by no means am not sure how that works. Only reason I am under the impression the CDI advances the timing is because of the CDI set-up that Kid-N-Me sells that is adjustable for advancing and retarding the timing. I am by no means an electrical expert but I am a shade tree mechanic. Have worked on a lot of vehicles in years past. I would hate to purchase the CDI that K-N-M sells for 125$ and that still not work out my problem, that is the only reason I am trying to find out about the CDI.
Only other thing I can maybe think of is the timing jumped a tooth or two. When I tried to set the timing marks to adjust the valves I did notice that they were out of sync. When on TDC and the mark on the stator side was lined up the mark on the cam gear was off by a couple teeth in lining up.
Hell I am lost.
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Post by insanetexan on Mar 21, 2017 11:18:23 GMT -6
Got the new carb in and installed and also changed out my fuel filters. It will start right up and rough idle but still bogs out on the twist of the throttle. I am puzzled, cause when it first happened I was riding it and it was great. But came to a red light and when the light changed I twisted to go and that's when it bogged out and died. Been that way ever since.
The question still stands that could the CDI be at fault?
Looking for a leak in the intake I sprayed starter fluid around it all over and nothing changed as far gaining any motor rev.
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Post by insanetexan on Mar 17, 2017 14:54:47 GMT -6
I went ahead and just ordered another carb off ebay for 43 bux. Gotta wait for that to come in probably next week sometime, it's only coming from California to Texas, but sometimes that can be like coming from China on the wait time.  |
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Post by insanetexan on Mar 15, 2017 17:18:23 GMT -6
Well I looked for a leaked and didn't find any. But I did recheck the valve settings and reset those again. I then changed the diaphrams out in the carb with some others I had here from an old carb and got it to finally idle a little smoother. Even though it would idle smoother it would still bog out when the throttle was twisted.
I am stuck now in a spot to where I am gonna have to either buy a new carb or a new choke for it. I accidently broke the choke on the carb.
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Post by insanetexan on Mar 15, 2017 8:48:18 GMT -6
I'll give it a shot and see if I can find one and fix it.
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Post by insanetexan on Mar 14, 2017 12:31:26 GMT -6
To start off wanna Hi to every one after being absent for quite awhile. I am still having a problem with my scooter. I had it running good for a while and then it just bogged out and won't run for crap. I have adjusted the valves as per JR's settings of .004 at the Intake and .005 at the Exhaust. I have also cleaned the carb since it has been sitting for awhile just to make sure it is in good shape. It has fully charged battery and I tried adjusting the A/F screw and there was no change in how it ran. Also attached a vacuum gauge to the intake and took that reading at 10 in. HG i think is the correct way to say it. Not sure what the vacuum should be but according to the gauge it is showing to be a leak at the intake manifold or not advancing the timing. Could the CDI be bad since the timing may not be advancing? I have not seen of any way to adjust the timing on these things. Any help would be greatly appreciated since I haven't been able to ride my Scoot for over a year now and would really like to get back on the road. Hope this link works to the vid of it running; tinyurl.com/hsstylj |
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Post by insanetexan on Jul 8, 2015 16:23:43 GMT -6
Not sure how an efi fuel system works. My guess would be to pull the fuel line from the efi and turn the key on and try to crank it that way to see if fuel comes out of the hose. If there is no fuel that way then it would be somewhere between the tank and the connection as to why there is no fuel flowing. That fuel flow shouldn't have any thing to do with the voltage regulator. There should also be more than just the one fuse somewhere on the scoot. Just that some of them are a real pain in the arse to find. Here is the link to the wiring diagram on the boards; thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/thread/506/bms-tbx-260-wiring-diagramsHopefully it works but those diagrams are showing 4 fuses for that scoot. |
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Post by insanetexan on Jul 6, 2015 12:22:02 GMT -6
since it will start with starting fluid, then it sounds like a fuel delivery problem. could be a clogged fuel filter or a faulty fuel pump. or maybe even just a piece of trash in the line.
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Post by insanetexan on Jun 4, 2015 12:33:13 GMT -6
Not sure if it would be same but the red wire would go to red, the green to green (ground) and the white would or should tie into the black. That would be the way I think it should be. |
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Post by insanetexan on Apr 3, 2015 7:41:15 GMT -6
The Stator wires running up from the Stator to the R/R on mine were around a 24 Gauge. They were so small my wire strippers wouldn't work on them.
I pretty much think the wires are a big problem on the Stator and making them to overheat.
In a scenario it would be like using a 220 volt electric stove and running 14 or 16 Gauge wire to operate it instead of the minimum requirement of 10 Gauge. The smaller the wire the more they will overheat when used to run a lot of voltage.
I myself didn't realize the wires on the stator were that small till I was gonna splice into where they melted.
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Post by insanetexan on Apr 2, 2015 11:57:23 GMT -6
Sorry for the long delay in coming back with an update. Between the weather and the short working time I have during the day I have finally finished this project. Here is what has been done; First of all I opened all the wiring and checked each and every wire along the scooter and where there was a splice I cut and re-spliced it together and soldered each one. Second I ran all new 14 Gauge wire for the four main wire runs the length of the Scooter, Red, Black, Yellow and Green. Third I removed the new Stator I had previously installed from the last time I posted and replaced the wires from the Stator out to the R/R plug with 16 Gauge wire and soldered those in place. Fourth I added the new R/R. Now somewhere along doing all that it seems to have fixed the problem of over heating the wires and melting the connectors. Now I can run the Scooter and the connections that were melting before are just barely getting warm. The voltage meter that I have installed is showing that I am now maintaining a steady 13 to 13.5 volts even with the radiator fan running. Oh Happy Day P.S. lets see how long this fix lasts. |
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Post by insanetexan on Feb 14, 2015 13:16:02 GMT -6
I am thinking in the way Ally is going here. I am getting the full juice from the Stator but I think it is somehow not flowing through the R/R as it should, therefore causing an overheating problem at the Stator and R/R connection and not anywhere else now. (with the old R/R installed)
I will be ordering the new R/R Monday and also check to see how far down the wires are melted together on the Stator side.
I am in the process right now of running new wires for the keyed black wire, the yellow lighting wire, the red constant hot wire and the green ground wire. I am replacing those wires to 14 gauge.
Ellpee that R/R you listed looks good and is probably a better one than the Chinese ones, but because of money restraints I am going to have to go with the one Jr showed and after replacing all these wires and adding in the new R/R hopefully it will solve my problems.
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Post by insanetexan on Feb 13, 2015 13:14:22 GMT -6
Just finished running some new wires (14 Gauge), red wire from R/R to blocking diode and the yellow wire that tied into that wire and runs to the radiator fan switch, rear parking lights and dimmer switch. Also replaced the red from the blocking diode to the fuse on the starter relay and up to the ignition switch (also with 14 Gauge). I ran the scoot to check and see if the wires were going to get hot and the wires from the R/R connection to the rest of the scoot did not heat up, but the wires from the Stator to the R/R got so hot they melted together and the R/R itself started to heat up, but not very hot, just warm to the touch. My question now would be are the Stator wires from the Stator to the R/R connection to small of a gauge for the output? They look to be around a 20 or 22 gauge wires. If I pulled the Stator back out and changed those wires to 14 Gauge would that help the over heating problem?
Also if anybody could point me in the right direction for the correct R/R for this thing it would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by insanetexan on Feb 9, 2015 19:43:32 GMT -6
It is the Linhai motor. As far as buying the right R/R that I am not sure of, the listing stated that it was for the roketa scooter 250cc motor. I was kind of skeptical when it arrived being it was a little smaller than the old one.
Ok so if it is not unusual for the linhai to go to 16 or 17 volts output then that would make sense since it doesn't stay at that high voltage constantly. Now as far as the R/R, blocking diode and headlight dimmer switch heating up to almost near impossible to touch and already melting one dimmer switch I am befuddled.
As stated in an earlier post before I have stripped the plastics and ran down all the wires one by one and they were all fine. None of them were crossing over or grounding out.
I am just having so many problems with this situation and this well be the second riding season I might not get to ride.
I guess I am gonna have to go back through the wires once again and see if by some freak accident I missed something.
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Post by insanetexan on Feb 9, 2015 11:35:13 GMT -6
As of today 2-9-2015 I finally was ably to get back to work on my scooter. So far I replaced the stator and tried running the scooter and I was at 14.5 volts on the volt meter. Revved up the engine and when I throttled back down the voltage showed to jump up to 17 to 18 volts. Thought maybe the R/R was a little faulty so I replaced the old one with a new one and now I am only showing around 12 volts. Also the connections on the Stator to R/R are getting so hot you can barely touch them. It has already melted my headlight switch once which I replaced and now it to is getting really hot.
For awhile I had no lights what so ever so I bought what I thought was a replacement blocking diode and mounted it and while running the scoot I heard a really loud pop. Blew that puppy out. Put the old blocking Diode back in and had lights again for only a little while till they stopped working again. I am guessing on the lights that the blocking diode is bad.
Also let me say I had all the plastics off the scoot and went through each and every wire to make sure they were all good and were not grounding out on anything. Checked all the ground wires and they are all good as well.
I am very stumped over this problem and I am getting to the point where I am not gonna be able to keep buying items that only work for just a little while for this thing.
Any and all suggestions that may help that I have not already tried are greatly accepted and appreciated.
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