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Post by insanetexan on Sept 9, 2014 12:14:02 GMT -6
I went back and rechecked everything as far as the wiring harness and that is all good. But I do believe I may have found the culprit. I had ordered a new R/R for good measures and decided to change it out and try that, put it in and started the engine and let it run and next thing I know one of the wires is burning off. Shut engine off and pulled R/R back off and found that the wires on the new R/R wire not installed correctly. The wires on the connections were not even in the connectors. All they had done was put the outer casing in the coupler and pinched it in place. So I fixed all three of those wires correctly and tried it again. This time there was no wires burning and my voltage was running around the 15 volt mark steady, then all of a sudden the voltage dropped again back to 12 volts. Ok this is where I finally get good readings, I was jiggling the wires in the stator to R/R connection and was getting my voltage readings to rise and fall between 15 volts and 12 volts. SO just for the fun of it I removed the plastic wire holders and connected all three wires together and just let them dangle there, started the engine and the same thing so I started disconnecting the wires one at a time to see if there was and difference. That's where I found that if by disconnecting one wire from the plug and only running on two legs of the stator then I could maintain almost 15 volts both on idle and at higher RPMs. Now the fun is going to begin with having to remove the stator and quite possibly replacing it.
Thanks JR for the help and will post results when I get a new Stator and replace it. First I have to find out which stator is the correct one so I don't order the wrong one.
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Post by insanetexan on Sept 5, 2014 7:09:26 GMT -6
Just checked the voltage on the battery and it is @ 12.69 volts with the scooter turned off (even after running it last night to do the stator test), and yes there is a blocking diode connected.
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Post by insanetexan on Sept 4, 2014 22:01:55 GMT -6
Yes the voltage is dropping at the battery when revved up. The drop at the battery when revved up just does not sound right to me as well. Not sure what could be causing that. And yes the R/R was unhooked from the stator for the test.
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Post by insanetexan on Sept 4, 2014 10:29:53 GMT -6
OK just ran the battery test and the results are; Idle @ 15.3 volts and at Max RPM 13.0 +/- .5 volts.(there are no turn signals or rear lights for the draw on the battery this also does not include the radiator fan running).
The stator test is; Legs 1-2 = 41.8 - 42.5 volts Idle and 124 volts at Max Rpm
Legs 1-3 = 46 to 47 volts Idle and 144 volts Max RPM
Legs 2-3 = 45 to 46 volts Idle and 133 volts Max RPM
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Post by insanetexan on Sept 3, 2014 16:20:51 GMT -6
Ok so I went through the wiring and found no problems. I then hooked the auto choke to a keyed hot wire and connected the stator straight into the R/R. Seems to be the charging is working again, but what puzzles me is why does the plug from the stator to the r/r get so hot you can not touch it? I also hooked up the new LED headlights and now when I flip for bright lights my radiator fan comes to a screeching halt (as in it stops working). Have I hooked something up wrong or is it due to the headlights being LED ? The amp draw on the headlights are just 1.2 amps on low beam and 2.8 amps on high. (if that helps).
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Post by insanetexan on Aug 25, 2014 6:21:43 GMT -6
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Post by insanetexan on Aug 24, 2014 16:48:04 GMT -6
Lets start by saying that I printed out the Schematics for the Linhai engine because of charging issues so I could trace my wires around. I have found something odd that is not making any sense to me. Question is I was under the thinking that the electric choke was a 12 volt item. Upon removing the wiring harness and exposing all the wires I find that the choke is actually wired into the main wires from the stator so it is receiving 60+ volts from it. On the wiring diagram the pig tailed yellow wire shows to be running to Liquid Adding Valve ((Electric Choke) in my rewording for the laymen out there.). If the choke is 12 volt then can it be rewired into a keyed 12 volt wire in the harness and the extra yellow wire be eliminated? That way I can just plug the Stator straight into the R/R by re-heading the Stator wire with a male plug.
On another note I have also removed the grey/white wire from the CDI plug as it was not in use. It ran to a plug of wires that was not in use (the plug I believe was for the alarm/remote start) which was removed from the scooter before I bought it.
Thanks in advance for help.
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Post by insanetexan on May 6, 2014 15:54:45 GMT -6
I just finished up a problem of the same sort with a linhai engine and the culprit was the ground wire from the frame to the motor. Check that out and see if that is the problem.
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Post by insanetexan on May 6, 2014 10:57:13 GMT -6
Alright what I found out with the starting problem. I pulled the starter off and jumped it over that way and it turned over just fine(outside of the scoot) mounted the starter back in place and again nothing. So I tried bypassing the solenoid and running a straight hot wire from the battery to the starter and when I did there was an arc from the motor ground. Tried to unscrew it from the engine and lo and behold the damn bolt twisted off ( now only 1 bolt holding the intake manifold on)  and that ground wire was all corroded so I made a new ground wire to run from the frame to the motor and screwed it on at the back of the starter. Hit the switch and it fired right up only one or two tapes of the starter switch and she was running again. That though didn't quite fix the charging problem. Although I do now have 13 volts showing when idling, took it for a test run but it wouldn't rise any higher than that. All the lights stay bright and the fan functions just fine even at that rate just when the fan kicks on the volts drop to around 12. Now time to scratch my head and try to figure out the charging. |
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Post by insanetexan on May 4, 2014 16:12:06 GMT -6
Yes Alley, I didn't disconnect the old solenoid till I got the new one in. Then I moved the starter and battery cables one at a time, as far as the other wires they are in a clip harness so those would really be hard to get wrong. Just frustrating since I had just started it to test the stator and when I killed it this problem hit me in the arse.
I will continue the updates as I go so if anybody else comes across this situation then they may find the solution here.
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Post by insanetexan on May 3, 2014 13:47:19 GMT -6
OK, I got the new solenoid in today and placed it on the scoot and I am still having the same problem with the clicking. I guess the next go round is a new starter, (only reason I am thinking starter next is I had the same problem on my lawnmower), Just for snitz and giggles I am gonna try a different battery here later when the temp comes down outside and see what happens.
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Post by insanetexan on Apr 29, 2014 16:19:22 GMT -6
Mine takes #2 in the pics.
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Post by insanetexan on Apr 29, 2014 14:12:41 GMT -6
OK last night I got the solenoid to jump over and engage. So I ordered another solenoid to replace it and waiting for it to come in now. Should be here between Thursday and Monday. When I get it installed I can check the starting again and also see if that corrects the charging problem. That's what I am hoping for anyway.
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Post by insanetexan on Apr 28, 2014 15:46:59 GMT -6
I didn't even think about the solenoid, but went and tried jumping the solenoid over and got nothing. The battery is fully charged and the fuses are good. right now the weather outside is horrendous at 100 degrees so it will have to wait till later this evening or tomorrow morning when it cools down just a bit.
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Post by insanetexan on Apr 28, 2014 12:02:59 GMT -6
Ok first off let me say it has been a while since I have had to do this type of work on my scooter.
I have the Linhai engine 257CC in a 2008 Roketa MC-54B. The problem I am having or had started only about a week ago was the charging wasn't at the appropriate voltage. It was only running around the 12 volt mark on the amp meter which is down from where it was normally running around the 14 to 16 volt mark. At the point where the charging started falling off the scoot would die while slowing down for stopping and would crank right back up no problem. What I was thinking was the stator was going bad.
So today I pulled the rear plastics off and checked the charging from the stator wires. I discounted the stator wires and ran a volt test between all the legs as described in the help section. Wires 1 to 2 then wire 1 to 3 then wire 2 to 3. My results were as follows. On any of the legs at Idle I was getting around 54 to 60 volts and and 4600 rpms which on my scoot for some reason is wide open throttle I was get anywhere from 115 to 124 volts per leg. So what I have read that is appropriate voltage from the stator. Now here is the kicker when I connected the stator wires back into the harness and turned the key back on and hit the starter button I heard a POP which sounded like it came from either the R/R or the Blocking Diode and now I am unable to start the scoot. All it does now when I hit the starter switch is just make a clicking noise and again sounds like it is coming from the R/R or Diode not for sure which.
Before I did this testing the wire harness where all the wires from the Stator and R/R and Blocking Diode come together would get so hot you couldn't touch them. They have been doing that since I got the Scooter back in 2011, I just thought that was just normal for it. I am wondering if I am on the right track of needing to replace the R/R and Blocking Diode to get it back running again. Oh and just to clarify things I checked the 2 fuses with my ohm meter and they were good but I went ahead and replaced them with new ones so that part is eliminated.
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