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Post by bobf on Nov 4, 2012 19:18:06 GMT -6
No daylight in Arizona. My clock is a lot older and I needed to correct it a week or two back.
I think they should pick one time set and leave it common all year long.
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Post by bobf on Nov 3, 2012 7:19:24 GMT -6
I think that going to the manufacturers site for help is a good idea. Most seem to have their own way of making things happen and therefore most likely to be able to fix.
I have had MS 7 on my lap top. I tried to follow the way expressed above and just could not follow the steps. To me, MS has taken a lot of simplicity out of their system and hidden it all in a number of panels that make it harder to find things. Prior to this level of MS there was a search box at the bottom of the screen and I could type in a command and get the history of the insides of the machine suddenly appear on the screen with several following screens telling about what was happening. Not so with this new level. I have had this level for over a year and find it very lacking in helping me do any corrections. One of my problems is when I try to find help I get lost in the choices of where to look and after a few tries of this then that or maybe here, I just get tire of it and quite. Now we have MS 8 available. Not sure I ever want to try it.
I used Linux for some time but now have given up on that too. There were several that I tried but only one I really liked, Xandros, as it was well packaged and the source had kept it up to date and had lots of applications that could work on it. Most of the Linux packages are not so well put together and it is necessary to keep going into the product and making changes to keep them going. I really never was happy with all that extra work.
Especially now with my aging problems of memory of how to do things.
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Post by bobf on Oct 31, 2012 14:28:13 GMT -6
I just looked up the Deltron battery tender at Ace Hardware. The price was $52 and had free shipping. Glad I bought one after I got my scooter nearly two years ago. Combined with lousy weather and far too many medical episodes my scoot has only got 80 miles on it. It is getting pretty good at sitting in the garage. It lives tied to the battery tender. When ever I can I go out, unhook the tender, start it up. Instant start, run for maybe 10 minutes then put it back on the charger. A week ago I rode the scoot around the neighborhood to see if I could. Did fine. Now if I can take some time off soon, I will ride it about 4 miles to the DMV area and get my title transferred and new plates for it. But that is another story.
What I am suggesting is to buy or borrow a tender to keep your battery happy while you are not around or the weather is too bad to use your machine. I am pretty happy with mine. Maybe a used on if you advertize you wants somewhere.
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Post by bobf on Oct 23, 2012 13:56:29 GMT -6
Try NAPA or other auto repair parts store. If they are both the same take one with you, if different take both with you, to the store and they should have a cross reference listing that will tell you what options you have available in different brands. They could likely measure the outside and inside measurements too, if no part number and brand on the bearing.
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Post by bobf on Oct 13, 2012 14:42:41 GMT -6
JR, my backup system is WD Smartware and it runs constantly. Yes it is a separate HD that attaches to the USB port. It does a good job of saving. My only complaint is that it seems to be coded for the particular PC it was installed on. So if the PC fails completely I am not sure if it is helpful. Thinking about a different one that can be picked up and put on a different system to recover files. I was lucky in that my old laptop could still work so I used a memory stick and download to it then put that in the new laptop and uploaded to the file system.
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Post by bobf on Oct 10, 2012 12:19:31 GMT -6
JR, I hope you were not too badly hit. In March I got hit on my new laptop and by the time my local shop had cleared the problems they had also lost most of my files.
Fortunately I had a back up system working on my old laptop and was able to recover most all files. Problem was a 3 to 4 month loss of data as I had not back up system on my new laptop. I do now. I copied down your link to safety from MS. So for that there is a thanks from me.
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Post by bobf on Oct 10, 2012 12:13:34 GMT -6
And which Linux are you using? I have had some free discs that can run live or be loaded. My favorite was Xandros but they have stopped publishing. So now I am back on Windows.
One of my favorite past times was games, so I had to keep MS going over the years.
My problem with Linux has always been the need to go to the command line and know the commands to do what I needed to do. On one machine I have Windows, Xandros, and Pardus. Just gave up all the tricks to keep things running.
So which do you have running the escapes the command line efforts.
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Post by bobf on Sept 28, 2012 15:48:29 GMT -6
Why not let the charger stay on. I have my charger on my scoot all the time. For over a year now. I have a 'Battery Tender Automatic' that turns itself on or off depending on the battery needs. No problem so far.
I don't get often to ride since I bought my scoot. Too many problems with my health for a long time and now in Arizona it has been just too hot to ride. Temps coming down now so I should be riding soon. I do go out every week or so and start the engine and let it warm up. Nice to have a charged battery sitting in the scoot. If I was riding every day I would not need the charger but if it ever goes down it is best to use one of these Battery Tenders or a trickle charger to bring it back up. A full charge rate from a automotive full size car battery charger would likely provide too much effort and do damage to these small lawn mower and motorcycle batteries.
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Post by bobf on Sept 20, 2012 11:33:41 GMT -6
Why not edit your post and remove the attachment that you did not put there. Or can't you do that?
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Post by bobf on Sept 16, 2012 20:57:10 GMT -6
Well Richard, it is a tight squeeze way to do things. But I did that a couple times while playing with the head light adjustment. Put a towel over the front fender as the loose front panel will likely slip down and mark it.
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Post by bobf on Sept 16, 2012 14:01:25 GMT -6
OK Richard, are you saying the bulb and socket will not turn and release then pull out through the hole?
If so then I would still stop with just the upper few bolts and screws removed so I can take out the three screws that hold the lamp to the front panel. Disconnect the lamp cable at the connector. Take the lamp out. Remove the lamp housing from the lens. Then remove and replace the bulb on the work bench. Repeat in reverse to reinstall.
I am sure I can do that.
Never again going to take the entire front panel off except in a major emergency situation. Something like replacing the fork.
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Post by bobf on Sept 16, 2012 7:48:30 GMT -6
Also if you have the Honda clone you can only remove the front panel, windshield, two bolts near top front and two screws below. Then start removing side panel screws from top to bottom until you can tip the front enough to work on the lights with some difficulty with a flashlight and remove the plastic cover on the back of the light and change the bulb. I never did this as my bulbs are still OK. But when I took my front clear off I found that the reinstall was a severe problem. Four of the retainer screws are behind the wheel and attach the front panel to the plastic cover in front of the gas tank area. It took me forever to get that taken care of. But using my method allowed me to get in, remove and replace the right and left lights while attempting to correct the aim. Three screws on each lamp if you want to do that. But try to remove the rubber cap on the back of the light and see if you can extract the bulbs that way.
Another way that may be tried would be to come up from underneath or thru the front opening with the front panel off and see if you can remove the plastic cover and remove the bulb that way.
Some mental gymnastic efforts going on here as removing and replacing the entire front is a real pain in the butt. I can reach the plastic cover going up from below but have not attempted to remove and replace the bulbs. That will be the first thing I try if my bulbs fail. Then maybe add the hole in the center by removing the front panel. And sequentially until I find a way to change the bulbs. Last would be the total removal of the front panels.
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Post by bobf on Sept 14, 2012 7:29:51 GMT -6
True about long solid objects. I often have used a long screw driver. Put the end on the engine where you want to listen and then put your ear over the end of the handle. Seemed to work well for me.
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Post by bobf on Sept 13, 2012 20:27:47 GMT -6
Another update on the headlight aim problems. In an attempt to get beyond the cross eyed light path I put washers on the outside screws, top and lower side. Thinking that an offset install would eliminate the cross eyed path of light. A bit of help but still not right. So I then took my setup back to the 10 foot position and made things a sharp as I could to the proper light positions. At 10 feet I had pretty much eliminated the cross eyed look. Back to 25 feet and at least we have the two lights shining pretty much straight forward. But still not right of center for either light. I took the obvious solution at this point, I quite.
Not any comments at this point so my question now is, has anybody ever really tried to aim their lights on a scoot? My scoot is a YY 250 T. A Honda clone engine of 2008 vintage. Maybe I just wasted a lot of hours and sufficient sweat as Arizona has been running well above 100F. Often 105 and as high as 112. I would work in the mornings as long as I could and then excape inside to where the AC was keeping things at about 78F.
Tomorrow I will finish with all the panel installs and get the windshield back on. Then I wait for the temps to start down as fall is now here. I hope to begin riding soon. Temps below 90F will feel pretty good.
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Post by bobf on Sept 3, 2012 16:37:31 GMT -6
Status update. I tried for hours to get the headlights aimed, no luck at all. So I took the headlights out of the scoot and took them out of the case. On some screws I was at the low limit on others about mid point. The lights were point in wild directions and never to anything like a spec position. One screw was completely out of the slider that carries the light up or down, left or right. So I ended up putting things back to a mid position and made sure all were working properly.
Sounds good so far.
After reinstalling in the scooter and getting the plastic all screwed down I set the bike up for more headlight aiming.
This time both the left and right lights show the high beam at the high point. That then says I don't mess with that yet. But the high beam of the left was on the mark for the right high beam and the high beam of the right was on the high beam mark for the left high beam. A bad case of cross eyes. I keep fiddling with the left right adjustments but can not get rid of the cross eye problem. I have moved the right beam to the center line mark and the left beam toward the center line mark but still on the right side of center line. I have run out of adjustment on the screw I assume to be the one to affect the left right position. I still have some ability to move the second screw that may have some ability to move the left right position.
My adjusters on the back of the lamp housing is this. The plus signs indicate the three adjustments on each.
Left..........................................................................................Right
+....................................................................................................+
..+....+..................................................................................+.....+..
(I had to toss in all those periods as the automatic editing destroyed my sketch. It was all a blob on the left margin.)
On each I think the top position is for up or down. I never changed those screws and the height stayed where it was.
On the bottom two I have played games with them and never get the left right to work for me. Bring one screw down and the other up, or only one screw down and do nothing to the other. The side to side changed as I described but never got out of the cross eyed position.
Anybody ever tried to align the headlights on a 2008 MC 54 250? Any success? If so, what was your method?
I will try again after dark tonight, on a 25' distance. If I can not make headway soon I will just have to let it be as it is, cross eyed but not set too high either.
Any help at all appreciated.
EDIT to add:
I just tried at 25' and the cross eye problem is exaggerated. Just not sure where to go next. I will need to get a inspection and license soon. I don't know if they check head light alinements in Arizona or not. If they do I am in trouble. It is a shame these lights are mounted on something so flimsy as the front plastics on these scoots. I would think something more stable and trustworthy would be better.
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