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Post by alleyoop on Jun 9, 2014 15:22:56 GMT -6
BUMMER!! Well here is the thing the STARTER CLUTCH may not even be turning the CRANK and the piston is not moving up and down. Can you verify that by cranking it and looking at either the FLYWHEEL TURNING or the VARIATOR TURNING when you crank it. It should be turning pretty good when cranking it. DID YOU HOLD THE THROTTLE WIDE OPEN WHEN YOU DID THIS WITH THE FINGER?
YOu have to hold the THROTLE WIDE OPEN WHEN DOING THIS so it sucks in as much air as possible to get the best compression reading.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 9, 2014 14:02:13 GMT -6
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 9, 2014 14:00:57 GMT -6
The real problem is that the muffler most likely is connected to the frame and not the SWINGARM that the motor is mounted to. If it where then the piping and muffler would move with the motor and all be be peachy keen and you would not need any of the flex stuff.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 9, 2014 13:56:56 GMT -6
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 9, 2014 13:40:47 GMT -6
You can test the ENRICHER very easy, Take it off and LAY IT ON ITS SIDE where you can watch it. The CYLINDER should be retracted when you take it off when the engine is COLD. IF THE CYLINDER LOOKS LIKE PIC 2 THEN THAT IS YOUR PROBLEM the enricher is not retracting for COLD starts to feed it extra fuel . AND IF EXTENDED OUT ALREADY cover the hold with your thumb and try to start the motor that acts as if the ENRICHER IS FEEDING IT EXTRA FUEL just to verify that is your problem. Should look like this RETRACTED:  THEN PUT your thumb over the HOLE and start the motor. HOLD YOUR THUMB OVER THE HOLE and watch the ENRICHER in about 3 or so minutes you should see the CYLINDER START TO EXTEND OUT about 1/4 of an inch. If it does all this then the ENRICHR IS GOOD. Extended out it should look like this"  Alleyoop |
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 9, 2014 13:34:46 GMT -6
The Spark plug hole, take the SPARK PLUG out and stick your finger in the spark plug hole all the way down you want to plug the hole with your finger JUST NICE AND SNUG to test if you have descent compression. DON'T worry it will not take your finger off(HAHA). It will just sort of LIFT your finger off the hole if there is DESCENT COMPRESSION, IF you just feel a little pressure then your compression is low and first thing is re-check your valves.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 9, 2014 0:58:51 GMT -6
Ok, that noise it is making sounds like the starter clutch, take the plug out and stick your finger in the hole and hold it nice and snug and open the throttle wide open and hold it and crank it. If it has descent compression and turning the crank it will lift your finger off the hole.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 9, 2014 0:06:39 GMT -6
First thing you want to do is Adjust the Valves adjust the valves to .004 inchs both of them. With that many miles they are probably tight and the exhaust valve is staying open and not sealing and no compression. And no compression then it doesn't produce enough suction to draw gas into the intake.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 8, 2014 19:40:23 GMT -6
Where is this LOOPED wire at? Pictures would help, your going at this blind, few of us know what is what. For one thing if you squeeze the breaks and push the start button and you hear clicking that is the SOLENOID inside contact clicking. Now When it clicks like that it could be a BAD SOLENOID, Weak Battery or Starter is shot.
So in that case the First thing to do is JUMP the SOLENOID terminals and it will spark when you first touch them BUT just hold it there and see if your starter spins. If it just makes a humming sound then your starter is not working.
If touching the two terminals spins your starter then you know your battery is good and starter is good and the problem is the SOLENOID.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 8, 2014 19:24:58 GMT -6
You have to take the front off to get to them no to ways about it, your scoot is the same body style as mine. You need to take the front cover off two screws , then the windshield 6 screws then the instrument cover then you can get your hand down in there to get at the lights.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 8, 2014 17:03:31 GMT -6
Cool, but the problem of it keeps on running after you turn the key off also try the killswitch.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 8, 2014 16:51:59 GMT -6
Here is how it should be connected, RED THICK WIRE FROM the battery to ONE terminal on the SOLENOID, then the other terminal on the SOLENOID to the STARTER. From the battery the NEG POST goes to the FRAME for ground.  |
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 8, 2014 16:47:56 GMT -6
Yea, the battery is to weak to turn the motor over fast enough for it to start. So put the battery on charge for at least 4 hours or so and then give it a shot.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 8, 2014 16:45:30 GMT -6
Did you charge up the battery before putting it in around 6 hours? Take a picture of the Solenoid and battery you may have connected it wrong.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 8, 2014 14:36:40 GMT -6
Good luck, hope that fixes the problem.
Alleyoop
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..BAD TO THE BONE..