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Post by alleyoop on Jun 17, 2014 18:29:43 GMT -6
The way remotes work is IF you start them with the remote you have to kill it with the remote. Once started with the remote it is expecting the next thing is to be shut off by the remote. The hot is being sent to the remote box and it passes the 12v to the key When the remote is used it cuts off the 12v to the ignition key and it controls the 12v. So in order for it to pass the 12v to the ignition key you have to complete the programmed memory for the remote, which is start and kill with the remote. Also you have to Disarm the Alarm I believe you have to hit the disarm twice.
You can also eliminate the remote and alarm they are Parasites for draining the battery.
Find the box and plug and see if any of the following are present if so you can bypass it.
Find the alarm/remote start module and find the white plug for it. Unplug it from the wiring harness then check the wire colors if you have a Brown/White and a Black/White wire or 2 Black and White wire or a Grey and a Pinkish wires in the harness plug join them together with another wire. .
So the wires your looking for To JUMP are:
1. A Brown /White and a Black/white wire
2. Or 2 Black and White wires
3. Or a Grey and a Pinkish wire
If the alarms have a fuse just remove the fuse and leave it plugged in.
Alleyoop
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No fire
by: alleyoop - Jun 17, 2014 15:25:11 GMT -6
Post by alleyoop on Jun 17, 2014 15:25:11 GMT -6
Is the killswitch on the run position? Look some more if the plug wire was off the plug how in the heck did that happen? you must of been messing around there and I am sure something got unplugged or the killswitch is not on the run position. There are no wires by the CARB only the ENRICHER and if you unplugged it to pull the carb off there are wires around there.
You are missing something
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 17, 2014 14:49:36 GMT -6
Sounds like a plan you have nothing to loose but success or the same thing.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 16, 2014 22:51:54 GMT -6
Welcome Mobiker, good to have you on the forum
Ride Safe
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 16, 2014 21:57:45 GMT -6
Cool, will check back tomorrow.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 16, 2014 21:45:27 GMT -6
So on the picture I labled asking if that hose went to the PUMP goes to another "T"? Like I said you should take the CANISTER OFF and then you will have that one "T" right off the INTAKE MANIFOLD one line going over the carb where it is going now and the OTHER HOSE off the "T" STRAIGHT to the FUEL PUMP. The rest is crap. Alleyoop Here is MY OWN SETUP and what yours should also be: Alleyoop  |
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 16, 2014 21:42:47 GMT -6
I will bet it goes to ANOTHER "T" and from that "T" a VACUUM LINE GOES to that GAS TANK VENT CANISTER. Also from that canister ONE HOSE you will find goes to either the AIR BOX or the TUBING going to the carb. If you take that off WHICH I RECOMMEND PLUG that connector on the AIR BOX or TUBING where the hose from the canister connected to.
Did you guys try closing the FUEL RATIO MIXTURE until it stops and then turn it out 2 1/2 turns yet.
With that MAIN VACUUM LINE FIXED fuel should flow much better now when you crank it.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 16, 2014 21:40:45 GMT -6
I will bet it goes to ANOTHER "T" and from that "T" a VACUUM LINE GOES to that GAS TANK VENT CANISTER.
Did you guys try closing the FUEL RATIO MIXTURE until it stops and then turn it out 2 1/2 turns yet.
With that MAIN VACUUM LINE FIXED fuel should flow much better now when you crank it.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 16, 2014 21:30:59 GMT -6
Look at this picture I labeled with a QUESTION: Alleyoop  |
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 16, 2014 21:22:23 GMT -6
Yes that is the GAS TANK CHARCOAL VENT CANISTER the TWO bottom connectors nothing connects to them ONE IS A DRAIN and the OTHER IS A VENT. One line you will find goes to the GAS TANK on TOP now you can take all that crap off and the HOSE from coming from the TANK put a fuel filter on the end of it and ZIP TIE it higher than the tank ALL IT IS, IS A VENT. If that canister gets full of fuel it will not vent and GAS WILL NOT FLOW to your pump.
They cause more problems than they are worth. And you will have less hoses and VACUUM PROBLEMS.
If you do take it OFF MAKE SURE YOU PLUG THE VACUUM HOSE GOING TO IT. You will have some nice hoses left over to replace any other hoses that may be in question.
Now that you have replaced the MAIN VACUUM HOSE, Turn the FUEL RATIO MIXTURE screw on the CARB CLOCKWISE until it stops and then TURN IT COUNTER CLOCKWISE 2 1/2 turns and see if it will start.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 16, 2014 21:15:15 GMT -6
So you replaced the one that has the rips in it, good because that is the MAIN VACUUM HOSE. I will wait for the next pic.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 16, 2014 21:10:06 GMT -6
Look at my previous post THAT IS BECAUSE your loosing vacuum the VACUUM HOSE from the INTAKE is RIPPED so not enough suction. REPLACE that piece of hose.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 16, 2014 20:41:55 GMT -6
Mimi, replace that piece of VACUUM hose on the INTAKE MANIFOLD that is your MAIN VACUUM SOUCRE and it looks like it has THREE RIPS in it and you are loosing suction to the FUEL PUMP and everything connected to that VACUUM PORT. I labeled where it looks like that VACUUM HOSE HAS RIPS. Alleyoop CLICK ON THE PICTURE TO EXPAND IT BIGGER EASIER TO READ AND SEE.   |
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GY6 150cc
by: alleyoop - Jun 16, 2014 11:30:12 GMT -6
Post by alleyoop on Jun 16, 2014 11:30:12 GMT -6
I am doing great, getting ready to pull the trike out and take a ride it is finally HOT out in the 80s and no rain and or windy.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 15, 2014 21:04:43 GMT -6
Welcome peacful, good to have you on the forum.
Alleyoop
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..BAD TO THE BONE..