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Well, if you have one, it can be a factor when it's up. That's when the switch closes and allows current to flow. If the switch goes bad, which they can do easily since their construction and location are both poor, then it will keep your starter button from being energized.

I think the first thing you should do is tear down the right switch pod and see if you have power at the starter switch when the key is on and the brake depressed. If so, is there also 12 volts on the switched terminal when you depress the button?

Got'em out. Took some persuasion, in the form of a 5 pound sledge, but they finally came out. Got the new ones in, bike is back on the road. Oh, and the new Michelin City Grips I just put on are a dream! Wow, everything is smooth and quiet!

Hi,
I need to remove and replace the rear wheel bearings as they had suffered ingress of water during my bikes hiatus with its careless previous owner. It's a 150cc GY6 based bike. There are two bearings pressed in the tube and I was wondering if I could remove these by just bashing them both straight through. Looking at the small gap between them however, it might almost appear that there is a spring clip between them, so perhaps the brute force approach may not be wise?

Anyway, any tips on properly removing these?

OK, so I just changed from 13 gram rollers to 11 gram sliders in my variator. After tightening the variator nut, I thought I'd turn the engine on so that I'd have an idea of what the belt less variator sounded like. I figured if my bike lost drive and I heard that sound, I'd know immediately that it was a broken belt and not the gearbox or rear pulley sheaves, etc.

Sure enough, I got a major lug nuts in a tin can sound that I will be sure to recognize should my belt break anytime in the future. I only let it run a few seconds. On a hunch, I then removed the variator nut and carefully removed the variator pulleys. As many of you are aware, these Dr Pulley sliders must be installed with the correct attitude within the variator or they won't work every well, of course. After opening the variator up, all the sliders were topsy turvy in their slots. No way this would have worked well at all if I had just slapped the belt in and buttoned it up.

So, the lesson I learned today is, if I the belt ever snaps, always check the sliders positions before installing the new belt. Also, probably unwise to run the engine much while a belt is broken. I think the sliders take a beating in there under these conditions.

Hope this saves someone some future aggravation!

(BTW, the 11 gram sliders worked out perfectly. So did the hoka "racing" (whatever that means) clutch I put in, with blue springs. Thinking I may need a heavier contra spring though. Not sure yet.)

Further on with my 2006 Diamo Velux restoration, after sorting all the engine and transmission issues, my attention has turned to the front end. First thing I did was add balancing beads to the tires which made the world of difference, checked the tightness of the tree bearings, ok there, but of course with these issues out of the way it more clearly reveals all the other stuff that's wrong! So, on to the forks.

After scouring all the available service info on this bike, I have not been able to find a level or capacity or viscosity spec for the fork oil. Just isn't out there. But, researching bikes of similar size and weight, I found capacities ranging from 100ml to 150ml. notably the Benelli Adiva, nearly the same bike, calls for 140ml.

Presently, the front end seems to behave ok with road swells, speed bumps, etc., and anything that doesn't require the fork to move too quickly. But any washboard stuff, sudden holes, or high speed driving I can tell the fork is just not responsive enough and I'm getting instability. Hitting a bit of washboard at 50mph is presently a scary experience.

I pulled the forks off, removed the top caps and springs and measured the oils level. They were not matched. In fact off by about half an inch. Poured and pumped out all the oil and found 100ml in one and 70ml in the other. Also, what was in there was very thick, like maybe 40 or 50 weight. On a side note, the springs are nicely exactly the same length.

With no good data to help me out, I'm now doing this empirically. Decided to start out with some synthetic ATF since I had that on hand. It's amzoil which is about 7.5wt I believe. I added 125ml to each fork, bled it through well, and with no spring and the tube fully compressed I'm measuring 1-3/4 inch from the top of the tube to the oil level. So i at least now have a benchmark, a starting point. Buttoned the forks back together and by hand I can tell that they are much smoother, not as heavily damped. I'll be reassembling this morning and test riding sometime today.

My question is, I have to think that there's a good scientific way of determining fork oil level in the tube. Like a simple formulae that says if the tube is x diameter, y travel, etc., then what should the volume of the compressible air cavity be? Just thought I'd throw this out there and see if anyone had any insights on this.

Once you get the drain plug remnants out, if you haven't already ordered a replacement and have a few extra bucks on hand, I highly recommend getting a good magnetic drain plug. It's amazing what nasties these things can pull out of your gearbox or engine oil.

I think I bought one for our cn250 here:

.drainplugmagnets.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.drainplugmagnets.com/