Post by randall on Jan 11, 2013 17:10:39 GMT -6
OK, so I just changed from 13 gram rollers to 11 gram sliders in my variator. After tightening the variator nut, I thought I'd turn the engine on so that I'd have an idea of what the belt less variator sounded like. I figured if my bike lost drive and I heard that sound, I'd know immediately that it was a broken belt and not the gearbox or rear pulley sheaves, etc.
Sure enough, I got a major lug nuts in a tin can sound that I will be sure to recognize should my belt break anytime in the future. I only let it run a few seconds. On a hunch, I then removed the variator nut and carefully removed the variator pulleys. As many of you are aware, these Dr Pulley sliders must be installed with the correct attitude within the variator or they won't work every well, of course. After opening the variator up, all the sliders were topsy turvy in their slots. No way this would have worked well at all if I had just slapped the belt in and buttoned it up.
So, the lesson I learned today is, if I the belt ever snaps, always check the sliders positions before installing the new belt. Also, probably unwise to run the engine much while a belt is broken. I think the sliders take a beating in there under these conditions.
Hope this saves someone some future aggravation!
(BTW, the 11 gram sliders worked out perfectly. So did the hoka "racing" (whatever that means) clutch I put in, with blue springs. Thinking I may need a heavier contra spring though. Not sure yet.)
Sure enough, I got a major lug nuts in a tin can sound that I will be sure to recognize should my belt break anytime in the future. I only let it run a few seconds. On a hunch, I then removed the variator nut and carefully removed the variator pulleys. As many of you are aware, these Dr Pulley sliders must be installed with the correct attitude within the variator or they won't work every well, of course. After opening the variator up, all the sliders were topsy turvy in their slots. No way this would have worked well at all if I had just slapped the belt in and buttoned it up.
So, the lesson I learned today is, if I the belt ever snaps, always check the sliders positions before installing the new belt. Also, probably unwise to run the engine much while a belt is broken. I think the sliders take a beating in there under these conditions.
Hope this saves someone some future aggravation!
(BTW, the 11 gram sliders worked out perfectly. So did the hoka "racing" (whatever that means) clutch I put in, with blue springs. Thinking I may need a heavier contra spring though. Not sure yet.)
..BAD TO THE BONE..