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Post by randall on Jan 9, 2013 6:02:51 GMT -6
Further on with my 2006 Diamo Velux restoration, after sorting all the engine and transmission issues, my attention has turned to the front end. First thing I did was add balancing beads to the tires which made the world of difference, checked the tightness of the tree bearings, ok there, but of course with these issues out of the way it more clearly reveals all the other stuff that's wrong! So, on to the forks.
After scouring all the available service info on this bike, I have not been able to find a level or capacity or viscosity spec for the fork oil. Just isn't out there. But, researching bikes of similar size and weight, I found capacities ranging from 100ml to 150ml. notably the Benelli Adiva, nearly the same bike, calls for 140ml.
Presently, the front end seems to behave ok with road swells, speed bumps, etc., and anything that doesn't require the fork to move too quickly. But any washboard stuff, sudden holes, or high speed driving I can tell the fork is just not responsive enough and I'm getting instability. Hitting a bit of washboard at 50mph is presently a scary experience.
I pulled the forks off, removed the top caps and springs and measured the oils level. They were not matched. In fact off by about half an inch. Poured and pumped out all the oil and found 100ml in one and 70ml in the other. Also, what was in there was very thick, like maybe 40 or 50 weight. On a side note, the springs are nicely exactly the same length.
With no good data to help me out, I'm now doing this empirically. Decided to start out with some synthetic ATF since I had that on hand. It's amzoil which is about 7.5wt I believe. I added 125ml to each fork, bled it through well, and with no spring and the tube fully compressed I'm measuring 1-3/4 inch from the top of the tube to the oil level. So i at least now have a benchmark, a starting point. Buttoned the forks back together and by hand I can tell that they are much smoother, not as heavily damped. I'll be reassembling this morning and test riding sometime today.
My question is, I have to think that there's a good scientific way of determining fork oil level in the tube. Like a simple formulae that says if the tube is x diameter, y travel, etc., then what should the volume of the compressible air cavity be? Just thought I'd throw this out there and see if anyone had any insights on this.
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Post by randall on Jan 9, 2013 9:47:19 GMT -6
Got the front end back together and took a local test ride. There are nice big speed bumps in my neighborhood for testing purposes. Can't get it out on a high speed road until I put a few more bits back on the bike!
Anyway, I definitely have a more solid feel. There's less dive when braking and bumping and recovery seems smoother. However, it likes to knock when the fork hits the top of its travel, which I don't like. Also the sag height is taller. All this makes sense since I reduced the volume of the air cavity. After I get a chance to see how this feels on high speed washboard stuff, Im thinking I need to increase that air cavity height, maybe a quarter inch.
I'm definitely going to drill and tap a 5 or 6mm hole in that fork cap so I can check, change, fill this fluid without having to pull the whole front end off. Tough when you're working by yourself.
I think a good set of adjustable rear shocks is soon to be on my shopping list too. Any decent recommendations for those?
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Post by randall on Jan 14, 2013 14:25:40 GMT -6
After riding and tuning for a while, I settled on an oil level of 2-1/2 inches below the top of the fork tube. that's with the spring removed and the tube compressed fully. That's an increase of 3/4 inch in the air cavity from where I started. Forks don't bottom out easily, firm ride but soaks up the bumps, and it doesn't knock when topping out now. I think I've got it where I want it. Time will tell.
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Post by JR on Jan 21, 2013 15:51:03 GMT -6
Awesome Randall! Do you have any specs on the shocks?
JR
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Post by randall on Jan 29, 2013 15:30:01 GMT -6
Awesome Randall! Do you have any specs on the shocks? JR No, but I'll measure the rear shocks up as soon as I get the chance. Continuing the fork saga, while I got it right for most conditions, I noticed that it wasn't doing a good job absorbing washboard surfaces at high speed. I removed more oil from each fork so I now have 3-1/2 inches of air column. Since the top plug takes up about an inch of this, it's really 2-1/2 inches that all the air in the tube has to compress into. Anyway, I think I'm done, as the wash boarding has improved a lot from this, and without sacrificing firmness and control too much. This was a good learning experience. There's a lot of interesting info on fork tuning at various motorcycle sites, particularly for the enduro crowd. A simple device, but complex in operation and tuning.
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