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Post by tvnacman on May 28, 2012 15:37:35 GMT -6
1 is correct that is the starter relay/solenoid .
2 is incorrect it goes to the starter (should be the same size wire as the battery cable)
3 incorrect , when everything is plugged in you should have a connection from the red on the regulator wire to the positive battery cable unless the fuse is blown .
4 relays are electro mechanical switches . no ac/dc conversion .
5 see #2 the relay that the battery cable goes to is a electro mechanical switch , that switches power to the starter when you hold the brake and hit the start button (I always keep a tested spare) .
If you want to see a pic of the stator wires from the engine ask .
John
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Post by tvnacman on May 28, 2012 6:17:14 GMT -6
Lets not loose focus, if not for what the vet gave/give we would not have the life we have today.
I wish to thank all vets past present and future! !!!!!!!
John
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Post by tvnacman on May 27, 2012 17:46:59 GMT -6
I want to convert to fuel injection , but I don't want to pay MBE's price .
John
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Post by tvnacman on May 27, 2012 17:43:48 GMT -6
you might want to recheck them from time to time . The first hint of poor starting or any proformance problems , I pull the valve cover and check them . I would also do a plug read make sure your not running too lean .
John
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Post by tvnacman on May 27, 2012 17:39:09 GMT -6
As far as oil changes go , dump the china oil ride 100 miles , dump and ride to 300 miles , dump ride to 500 , dump change it at 1000 , dump change it every 1000 after that . I do the trans oil at the same time every time . I look at the oil for metalic particals . You should check your valves again at 500 . check your exaust bolts now and then , listen to your engine for exaust noise . I keep plenty spare parts that are tested , some I sell . Any part that is under $10 bucks I have spares , waiting 2 or 3 weeks for some small part is very frustrating , when you can't use your scooter .
John
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Post by tvnacman on May 27, 2012 6:14:14 GMT -6
Len don't give up your comming along !!!!!!!!!!
John
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Post by tvnacman on May 26, 2012 19:32:56 GMT -6
Have you checked your fuse ? don't just look at it check it with a meter !!!!
I spoke to JR a little while ago and we seem to think the past owner may have tried to convert your charging system . If so it is not complete . You can convert your head lights to dc , add a switch or relay and pull a heaver wire to feed the headlights .
JR and I spoke about 3phase stator and ac headlights seem very odd ball to us .
John
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Post by tvnacman on May 26, 2012 17:42:10 GMT -6
your headlights are ac .
John
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Post by tvnacman on May 26, 2012 17:40:46 GMT -6
changing the oil was smart , I feel be firm during break in . Then again I ride hard . the key to good breakin is short trips don't over rev it . let it cool down in between .
john
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Post by tvnacman on May 26, 2012 17:35:57 GMT -6
Just a thought here have you checked the bulbs ?
John
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Post by tvnacman on May 26, 2012 17:32:35 GMT -6
I have that scooter , it came with a 6pole stator and a 4pin regulator . I ripped my hair out with that set up . Then I upgraded to 11pole stator and 7pin regulator . My headlights were ac now they are dc . . Len on the head light switch plug is there a yellow wire ?
John
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Post by tvnacman on May 26, 2012 16:34:02 GMT -6
grounds , on the left side near the oil dipstick , on the fan cover bolt should be a wire . That is your engine ground . Sometimes under the bolt holding the regulator on the frame is your frame ground . Len I sent you another PM . Is this your regulator below ? i1214.photobucket.com/albums/cc483/tvnacman/photo.jpgJohn |
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Post by tvnacman on May 26, 2012 14:55:36 GMT -6
Did you rev it up when measuring yellow to yellow , if so what was the acv ? this is important !!!!!!!
John
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Post by tvnacman on May 26, 2012 6:42:42 GMT -6
My concern here is that there could be a flaw from the factory , thats why it never worked . I would have checked the stator output before ordering any parts . Number one rule in trouble shooting is never take anything for granted . It has been stated before the grounds need to be checked , battery , frame , engine , clean up the connections inspect the crips for the ground leads . Be sure the connections are making good mechical connection . Also check under the regulator , some regulators make ground where they are mounted .
John
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Post by tvnacman on May 26, 2012 6:33:19 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, lennie11b. The 6 wire regulator/rectifier means that you have a full DC system and all the lights work on DC. If only some of the lights come on when the headlight is on, it means there may be an open circuit. With the key turned off, check for battery voltage at the red wire of the plug on the regulator/rectifier (R/R). This is the output of the R/R so when the engine is running the DC voltage should be at least 13.5 volts which you should be able to see also on the positive terminal of the battery. If there is no DC on the red wire, then you have an open circuit between the battery and the R/R. If there is DC, but it does not increase or drops when the engine is running, then there is a problem with the R/R. This could be a problem with the connectors at the R/R. The connector with the 3 yellows sometimes overheats and may not feed AC into the R/R. If the connectors check out OK, then the R/R probably really went south. Let us know how your voltage checks turn out. The ACV measurments on the yellow wires when plugged in , are not really telling you anything . When the AC input to the regulator is connected to the regulator from the stator . The readings are some what wild . The regulator is clamping down the ac to control DCV output , it a balanceing act. What is not needed for DC output will be dumped to ground . |
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