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Post by JR on Jan 28, 2016 19:28:31 GMT -6
I'm pretty sure the previous owner used a gas and oil mix and just completely bypassed the oil injection system. Either way I only see one tank under the seat for the gas.and its almost empty. In fact it sat for a while after I bought it and leaked what looked like oil and smelled like gas so I'm assuming it was run on premixed. From what I see the oil tank has been removed and overall this scooter hasn't been given a lot of love. I'm sure whatever was in the tank wasn't good quality and I wouldn't have a clue as to what fuel/oil ratio mix this scooter needs? .jr-richscooterdoc.com/Suzuki_FA50_service_manual.pdf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .jr-richscooterdoc.com/Suzuki_FA50_service_manual.pdfPage 8 of the manual is clear it has a oil tank, pump and injection system. Running the wrong mix can do a 2 stroke in quickly. I'd say you have your work cut out for you? Looks like the spark plug coil has even been messed with? I'd pull the spark plug and see if it even fires? JR |
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Post by JR on Jan 28, 2016 14:30:55 GMT -6
Ahaaa, that makes sense, because it seems that the scooters that haven't got the little boxes lights turn on without the engine running, ie. they run off the 12v circuit Partly correct. Very few scooters have the lights run off the 12Vdc circuit but those that do have very good charging systems. The load resistor for lighting on scooters that run off the R/R charging system will have a on/off light switch along with the dimmer switch. Now with that said the output of the R/R is sometimes helped by keeping a balanced load on it, thus the head/tail lights. But with a on/off headlight switch in the OFF position the load in greatly decreased thus the R/R in lots of cases can't shunt all the extra charge voltage to ground. In this case the on/off headlight switch is actually a two way contact switch, when you turn the lights off you actually just switch the current output to another set of contacts to the what?........... the "load resistor" the resistor gives the same load as the lights do thus not letting the excess voltage do damage to the battery. If you decide to remove the resistor then you need to fix the headlights so they have to be ON all the time. If not then your going to fry the battery. JR |
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Post by JR on Jan 28, 2016 6:33:37 GMT -6
Either the kick starter is not engaging when you press it down or you have engine trouble such as stuck rings which means no compression, bad reed valve that is not holding compression or all of the above. This is a simple two stroke engine and you got to remember to put gas in one tank and two cycle oil in the other.
This is a older model of the Suzuki mopeds and isn't even made any more. There is a complete service manual here in the Non Chinese manual section. It has all of the specs and a great trouble shooting section.
If this scooter has been sitting a long time then you may have to open her up and fix the problems that occur with things that sit up for periods of time. You did check to see if it has a spark plug and that it is in tight?
The battery will have nothing at all with the engine starting or running. In fact this scooter will start with no battery at all if everything is working properly but you must have the key on. Again the battery has one function on this scooter and it's the accessories like the horn, tail and stop light, nothing more.
The magneto provide the power to the CDI which sends power to the spark plug coil and also supplies power to the headlights. So even with no battery or even a dead battery it'll start if everything on the scooter is in working order.
If I was going to start it with no battery I would do the following:
Make sure the battery wires that hook to the battery are not touching together or touching the frame of the scooter, cover the ends with tape.
Turn the key to ON the first spot will work
Make sure the engine kill switch on the handle bar is in the RUN position
Make sure it has good clean gas and 2 cycle oil.
Kick it over with the kick starter until it starts.
If the kick starter goes down with no resistance at all you have problems. This may be why it was a garage sale item? It's a sweet little scooter and when running it's a blast to ride. Nothing on it can't be fixed.
JR
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Post by JR on Jan 27, 2016 20:01:33 GMT -6
Ok so you now know that with it in the second position it's A-Ok. I do want you to check one more thing to be sure. Turn the switch to the second position and then take your meter and test RED to BLACK and RED/BLACK to BROWN/WHITE for the same reading as 0.00, then with the switch still on test GREEN to BLACK/WHITE for no reading at all as in 1.
If that is OK then here is how you hook the wires up to the other part of the scooter's harness. I will list the colors of your new switch first:
RED to RED
BLACK to ORANGE
GREEN to BLACK/WHITE
BLACK/WHITE to BLACK/RED
BROWN/WHITE to YELLOW
RED/BLACK to GRAY
Remember the first color is the color of the wires on the new switch. If your test is OK with the key ON and if you have a hot battery then when you turn the key on you should have a tail light come on, the horn should work and if you press the front brake handle or the rear brake the stop light should light up. Of course this is if you have a good battery and all the bulbs and switches are good?
Now here is the reason they did this switch like they did and your new switch should do the same? If you turn the key on in the first spot your first two tests succeeded. You had to turn it to the second spot to make all three tests work. So with the key on in the first spot you can have the horn and lights as I said because they run off the battery and with the switch only in the first position you will NOT have any headlights or instrument lights. The battery on this scooter only has one purpose, tail lights, horn and stop lights, this scooter doesn't even have a electric starter on it and has to be kick started to run. You can actually crank this scooter with a dead battery if the key is at least ON in the first position. Why? Because in the OFF position the CDI is grounded out thus not letting the spark plug spark. You have a engine kill switch on the handle bars. Make sure it is in the engine ON position because it acts just like the key switch in the OFF position by grounding out the CDI.
Follow the color scheme as I gave it to you and hopefully you have a good battery and all will work as I said.
JR
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Post by JR on Jan 27, 2016 14:08:51 GMT -6
Nope the scooter you have is a different animal and the only way to know if the switch will work is to test it with a ohm meter. So with that said we can test it. So this is how we start, get out your ohm meter out and set it on the 20k setting, turn it on and make sure it is working. It should read 1 . and when the two meter leads are touched together go to 0.00, if it is a meter with a sound tone then it will beep with the meter testing leads touched together. If the switch tests correctly it'll be a piece of cake to tell you what color wire to match up to the old wire harness system. With the switch in the OFF position touch the GREEN wire with one lead and the BLACK/WHITE with the other meter lead. The meter should have continuity and read 0.00. Now with the leads still hooked up as before turn the switch to the ON position, the meter should do nothing and read 1. If this tests out then we have just found the kill circuit of this switch. Now with the switch in the OFF position put one meter lead to the RED wire and the other lead to the BLACK wire, the meter should read 1 or not move. With the leads still hooked up turn the switch to the ON position, the meter should move and read 0.00 If this is the case we have just found the hot 6Vdc circuit for the scooter. I feel certain you will get those readings on those color wires but here is the uncertain part? Now with the switch in the OFF position hook one meter lead up to the RED/Black wire and the other lead to the BROWN/WHITE wire. My hopes are you will read 1 and the meter will not move. Again with the leads still hooked up turn the switch to the ON position, if the switch is correct the meter will move and read 0.00. If this tests out we have found our last circuit the light circuit. Do these tests, let me know the results and we'll go from there. JR |
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Post by JR on Jan 27, 2016 13:46:41 GMT -6
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Post by JR on Jan 27, 2016 13:44:45 GMT -6
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Post by JR on Jan 26, 2016 23:04:13 GMT -6
Light load resistors for sure. Looking for manual.
JR
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Post by JR on Jan 26, 2016 20:26:03 GMT -6
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Post by JR on Jan 26, 2016 11:56:52 GMT -6
 peachy Could be either, I would test the battery with another meter and by doing that without buying a new one you could get it checked at a auto parts place for free. If it does register 15Vdc I would then rig a 12 volt light to it and let it run down to completely dead and then slow charge it for 8 to 10 hours, slow meaning 2amps or less. After charging it let it sit for at least one hour then test it, 15 volts or higher means something is wrong, at the most one wants 13.5Vdc. The stator consists of a few coils of wire. The spinning magnets in the flywheel interact with the coils to generate A/C current. The current then flows to a rectifier, which convers it to useable D/C current. Most rectifiers also act as regulators. The regulator will control how much current flows to the battery. At high engine speeds and low electrical loads, more current will be generated than can be used. Usually excess current flows to the battery to recharge it, but too much current will wreck the battery. In this case, the regulator will re-route the current to ground. It's highly possible that the regulator is out and not (shunting) the excess voltage to ground thus the battery at 15Vdc? No way you should get 18Vdc if at this level very long you'll wreck the battery and even start burning out bulbs. I need two things, make and model of scooter and a picture of this "box" it's possible it's load resistor for the lights. Some of the older scooters have a on/off headlight switch and when the lights are off the load resistor keeps the voltage down on the R/R so that it will not overcharge and burn up the battery. With the lights on there is enough load on the charging system to not cause damage. JR
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Post by JR on Jan 26, 2016 7:03:25 GMT -6
thisismyname . Glad you're here. We have the service manual for this scooter here: thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/thread/353/suzuki-manualsNow on page 64 is the wiring diagram so let's see if we can make this work? Also did you actually look for a OEM switch? Here is one: .ebay.com/itm/FA50-Suzuki-Shuttle-Ignition-Key-Switch-NEW-With-2-Keys-OEM-Suzuki-Moped-/161935147534?hash=item25b416420e:m:mfb1VTwbKPqx_CRGlmXPgoQ&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.ebay.com/itm/FA50-Suzuki-Shuttle-Ignition-Key-Switch-NEW-With-2-Keys-OEM-Suzuki-Moped-/161935147534?hash=item25b416420e:m:mfb1VTwbKPqx_CRGlmXPgoQ&vxp=mtrSo first thing is to identify the wires on your OEM plug and we'll have to use a ohm meter possibly to identify the other switch if you still choose to use it. The diagram tells us that this is a odd switch and I need to know what the switch you bought is for? Is that a switch for a more modern GY-6 scooter or what? On the old switch I see the following Red = 6Vdc from the battery and you do know this is a 6volt battery right? Orange = 6Vdc out with the key switch on Yellow = stator feed voltage from stator to feed the High Beam lights it plugs into the Y/W from the stator and with the key on feeds the output voltage to the dimmer switch through the GRAY wire. The light only works with the engine running. Black/White = Ground wire to the switch Black/Red = AC feed from stator to the CDI and with the key on the OFF position the B/W grounds out the CDI thus killing the engine. So this switch is what we call a 3 way contact switch which in this case will be a normally open (NO) and two normally closed (NC) positions with the key in the ON position. So now if you can make this other switch work you'll need the same combo. With most switches with the colors you have there are certain givens. Red on this will be battery voltage in Black will be battery voltage out Green will be ground. Black/White is engine kill wire. Now we have two more colors on the switch Black/Red and Brown/White. So what we need to do is test it. Do you have a multi-meter with a ohm setting function and know how to read one? If so then I can tell you what/how to test this switch to see if we can make it work. JR
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Post by JR on Jan 26, 2016 6:10:41 GMT -6
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Post by JR on Jan 23, 2016 23:35:23 GMT -6
It's better to shut it off but pain to pull the seat, IMO I would order a new vacuum petcock and see if that works well now.
JR
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Post by JR on Jan 19, 2016 7:00:06 GMT -6
lawless211 The cracked manifold is your problem and even though you are plugging the crack it's not sealing well, when the new one comes in then after installing it let us know what's going on. JR
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Post by JR on Jan 18, 2016 5:35:14 GMT -6
lawless211 remove the gas cap and see if the fuel flows better. JR
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