Ignition help Suzuki fa50 wiring By thisismyname (Read 9,212 times)

[thisismyname]

Recently bought a Suzuki fa50 at a garage sale, but it has no key. I bought a replacement ignition but when it arrived the wiring harness was to large, and it's seemingly impossible to find one with a matching wiring harness To the scooter. So I removed the old wiring harness from the original ignition switch and am trying to install it on the new ignition, but the wire colors on the new ignition are different than on the old one. Is there a way to identify what color wire goes into what slot on the wiring harness? I don't want to guess and blow a fuse or something. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[JR]

thisismyname . Glad you're here. We have the service manual for this scooter here:

thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/thread/353/suzuki-manuals

Now on page 64 is the wiring diagram so let's see if we can make this work? Also did you actually look for a OEM switch? Here is one:

.ebay.com/itm/FA50-Suzuki-Shuttle-Ignition-Key-Switch-NEW-With-2-Keys-OEM-Suzuki-Moped-/161935147534?hash=item25b416420e:m:mfb1VTwbKPqx_CRGlmXPgoQ&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.ebay.com/itm/FA50-Suzuki-Shuttle-Ignition-Key-Switch-NEW-With-2-Keys-OEM-Suzuki-Moped-/161935147534?hash=item25b416420e:m:mfb1VTwbKPqx_CRGlmXPgoQ&vxp=mtr

So first thing is to identify the wires on your OEM plug and we'll have to use a ohm meter possibly to identify the other switch if you still choose to use it.

The diagram tells us that this is a odd switch and I need to know what the switch you bought is for? Is that a switch for a more modern GY-6 scooter or what?

On the old switch I see the following

Red = 6Vdc from the battery and you do know this is a 6volt battery right?
Orange = 6Vdc out with the key switch on
Yellow = stator feed voltage from stator to feed the High Beam lights it plugs into the Y/W from the stator and with the key on feeds the output voltage to the dimmer switch through the GRAY wire. The light only works with the engine running.
Black/White = Ground wire to the switch
Black/Red = AC feed from stator to the CDI and with the key on the OFF position the B/W grounds out the CDI thus killing the engine.

So this switch is what we call a 3 way contact switch which in this case will be a normally open (NO) and two normally closed (NC) positions with the key in the ON position.

So now if you can make this other switch work you'll need the same combo. With most switches with the colors you have there are certain givens.

Red on this will be battery voltage in
Black will be battery voltage out
Green will be ground.
Black/White is engine kill wire.

Now we have two more colors on the switch Black/Red and Brown/White.

So what we need to do is test it. Do you have a multi-meter with a ohm setting function and know how to read one? If so then I can tell you what/how to test this switch to see if we can make it work.

JR

[thisismyname]

.amazon.com/GOOFIT-Switch-2-stroke-Taotao-Roketa/dp/B00VJYHTRS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41hEhU5OlhL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1BDS6SQD488C9QF5070H#productDetails" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.amazon.com/GOOFIT-Switch-2-stroke-Taotao-Roketa/dp/B00VJYHTRS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41hEhU5OlhL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1BDS6SQD488C9QF5070H#productDetails

This is the new ignition on the box it came in it said it was for a baja pocket mini bike. The one on eBay was the one ignition I could find but as you can see this one was much cheaper, I assumed because they are both 6 wire scooter ignitions for a 50 cc that they would work together. I do have an ohm meter and can figure out how to use it. I just don't know which colors match from the new switch to the old wires on the scooter.

[thisismyname]

That isn't the exact listing I ordered from but it is the same switch it's a goofit 6 wire ignition. I've been trying to get a wiring diagram from the company but they're no help

[JR]

Jan 27, 2016 0:24:04 GMT -6 thisismyname said:

.amazon.com/GOOFIT-Switch-2-stroke-Taotao-Roketa/dp/B00VJYHTRS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41hEhU5OlhL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1BDS6SQD488C9QF5070H#productDetails" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.amazon.com/GOOFIT-Switch-2-stroke-Taotao-Roketa/dp/B00VJYHTRS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41hEhU5OlhL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1BDS6SQD488C9QF5070H#productDetails

This is the new ignition on the box it came in it said it was for a baja pocket mini bike. The one on eBay was the one ignition I could find but as you can see this one was much cheaper, I assumed because they are both 6 wire scooter ignitions for a 50 cc that they would work together. I do have an ohm meter and can figure out how to use it. I just don't know which colors match from the new switch to the old wires on the scooter.

Nope the scooter you have is a different animal and the only way to know if the switch will work is to test it with a ohm meter. So with that said we can test it.

So this is how we start, get out your ohm meter out and set it on the 20k setting, turn it on and make sure it is working. It should read 1 . and when the two meter leads are touched together go to 0.00, if it is a meter with a sound tone then it will beep with the meter testing leads touched together. If the switch tests correctly it'll be a piece of cake to tell you what color wire to match up to the old wire harness system.

With the switch in the OFF position touch the GREEN wire with one lead and the BLACK/WHITE with the other meter lead. The meter should have continuity and read 0.00. Now with the leads still hooked up as before turn the switch to the ON position, the meter should do nothing and read 1. If this tests out then we have just found the kill circuit of this switch.

Now with the switch in the OFF position put one meter lead to the RED wire and the other lead to the BLACK wire, the meter should read 1 or not move. With the leads still hooked up turn the switch to the ON position, the meter should move and read 0.00 If this is the case we have just found the hot 6Vdc circuit for the scooter.

I feel certain you will get those readings on those color wires but here is the uncertain part?

Now with the switch in the OFF position hook one meter lead up to the RED/Black wire and the other lead to the BROWN/WHITE wire. My hopes are you will read 1 and the meter will not move. Again with the leads still hooked up turn the switch to the ON position, if the switch is correct the meter will move and read 0.00. If this tests out we have found our last circuit the light circuit.

Do these tests, let me know the results and we'll go from there.

JR

[thisismyname]

There are two on positions on the new switch, and on the second position ( key all the way turned) it passed each test. The first position passed the first two but failed the lights test.

[JR]

Ok so you now know that with it in the second position it's A-Ok. I do want you to check one more thing to be sure. Turn the switch to the second position and then take your meter and test RED to BLACK and RED/BLACK to BROWN/WHITE for the same reading as 0.00, then with the switch still on test GREEN to BLACK/WHITE for no reading at all as in 1.

If that is OK then here is how you hook the wires up to the other part of the scooter's harness. I will list the colors of your new switch first:

RED to RED
BLACK to ORANGE
GREEN to BLACK/WHITE
BLACK/WHITE to BLACK/RED
BROWN/WHITE to YELLOW
RED/BLACK to GRAY

Remember the first color is the color of the wires on the new switch. If your test is OK with the key ON and if you have a hot battery then when you turn the key on you should have a tail light come on, the horn should work and if you press the front brake handle or the rear brake the stop light should light up. Of course this is if you have a good battery and all the bulbs and switches are good?

Now here is the reason they did this switch like they did and your new switch should do the same? If you turn the key on in the first spot your first two tests succeeded. You had to turn it to the second spot to make all three tests work. So with the key on in the first spot you can have the horn and lights as I said because they run off the battery and with the switch only in the first position you will NOT have any headlights or instrument lights. The battery on this scooter only has one purpose, tail lights, horn and stop lights, this scooter doesn't even have a electric starter on it and has to be kick started to run. You can actually crank this scooter with a dead battery if the key is at least ON in the first position. Why? Because in the OFF position the CDI is grounded out thus not letting the spark plug spark. You have a engine kill switch on the handle bars. Make sure it is in the engine ON position because it acts just like the key switch in the OFF position by grounding out the CDI.

Follow the color scheme as I gave it to you and hopefully you have a good battery and all will work as I said.

JR

[thisismyname]

Waiting on a battery in the mail actually. Ended up having to splice the wires, the connectors on the new switch were slightly fatter than the originals. Colors are matched up, switch is plugged in, ignition turned to second setting, when I use the kick start I feel no resistance it just goes down and back up. Not sure if this has to do with the ignition or not I know u said I can crank it with no battery if the ignition is on, but I can't be sure it's working until I get the battery installed and see the lights. Any idea why it's not even trying to turn over?

[JR]

Either the kick starter is not engaging when you press it down or you have engine trouble such as stuck rings which means no compression, bad reed valve that is not holding compression or all of the above. This is a simple two stroke engine and you got to remember to put gas in one tank and two cycle oil in the other.

This is a older model of the Suzuki mopeds and isn't even made any more. There is a complete service manual here in the Non Chinese manual section. It has all of the specs and a great trouble shooting section.

If this scooter has been sitting a long time then you may have to open her up and fix the problems that occur with things that sit up for periods of time. You did check to see if it has a spark plug and that it is in tight?

The battery will have nothing at all with the engine starting or running. In fact this scooter will start with no battery at all if everything is working properly but you must have the key on. Again the battery has one function on this scooter and it's the accessories like the horn, tail and stop light, nothing more.

The magneto provide the power to the CDI which sends power to the spark plug coil and also supplies power to the headlights. So even with no battery or even a dead battery it'll start if everything on the scooter is in working order.

If I was going to start it with no battery I would do the following:

Make sure the battery wires that hook to the battery are not touching together or touching the frame of the scooter, cover the ends with tape.

Turn the key to ON the first spot will work
Make sure the engine kill switch on the handle bar is in the RUN position
Make sure it has good clean gas and 2 cycle oil.
Kick it over with the kick starter until it starts.

If the kick starter goes down with no resistance at all you have problems. This may be why it was a garage sale item? It's a sweet little scooter and when running it's a blast to ride. Nothing on it can't be fixed.

JR

[thisismyname]

I'm pretty sure the previous owner used a gas and oil mix and just completely bypassed the oil injection system.
Either way I only see one tank under the seat for the gas.and its almost empty. In fact it sat for a while after I bought it and leaked what looked like oil and smelled like gas so I'm assuming it was run on premixed.

[thisismyname]

[JR]

Jan 28, 2016 16:02:57 GMT -6 thisismyname said:

I'm pretty sure the previous owner used a gas and oil mix and just completely bypassed the oil injection system.
Either way I only see one tank under the seat for the gas.and its almost empty. In fact it sat for a while after I bought it and leaked what looked like oil and smelled like gas so I'm assuming it was run on premixed.

From what I see the oil tank has been removed and overall this scooter hasn't been given a lot of love. I'm sure whatever was in the tank wasn't good quality and I wouldn't have a clue as to what fuel/oil ratio mix this scooter needs?

.jr-richscooterdoc.com/Suzuki_FA50_service_manual.pdf" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.jr-richscooterdoc.com/Suzuki_FA50_service_manual.pdf

Page 8 of the manual is clear it has a oil tank, pump and injection system. Running the wrong mix can do a 2 stroke in quickly. I'd say you have your work cut out for you? Looks like the spark plug coil has even been messed with? I'd pull the spark plug and see if it even fires?

JR

[thisismyname]

Read the manual, found out you have to hold the brake to engage the Kickstarter. Engine trys to turn over now, can feel the gears turning in the crankcase, so I know the ignition works now. still doesn't turn over though.

[JR]

When you say turn over are you saying trying to start? If so I'm sure it's not going to hit a lick without good clean fresh gas? also if it's leaking you need to fix that. Again pull the spark plug out to see if it is sparking, remember key on and engine kill switch to Run position or no spark.

JR

[thisismyname]

Well I'm still trying to figure out whether to keep the bypassed oil injector or to try and fix the injection system and if not what oil ratio I should use. I don't want to put gas in if I'm going to have to remove the tank and get to the wires. The spark plug looks brand new nice clean bright white I see no reason it wouldn't be working.