Overheating issue By bbunce1 (Read 1,302 times)

[alleyoop]

Yes 170% is good, all that you say and tested sounds good and it points to the Thermo Switch is bad and not triggering the fan to come on.
Alleyoop

[bbunce1]

I tested the thermo switch and it was ok. The only thing I haven't checked is the voltage going to the switch. I hope that's the issue becuase I'm out of ideas.I am thinking about getting a rechargeable battery and then connect it to the fan. I'm guessing the temperature will stay low as long as the fan runs and the battery doesn't die.

[ellpee]

In reality, it does NOT matter which pin goes where, other than will the connectors fit together correctly. Juice comes in one side from the battery, and when the coolant gets hot enough, it flows out the other side to the fan. But you do need to know that on one side or the other of the connector that plugs into the thermoswitch, you have 12v with ignition on. The other pin on the thermoswitch is "juice out to the fan", and shouldn't show any voltage at all in the everything-cold state. It will only show 12v once the coolant heats up to something in the neighborhood of 170 degrees F.

"Update: Voltage from the battery to the fan was good. I removed the plug connection from the battery. That was good. Then I plugged the ends back together and still had 12v on the fan plug side. The fan works very good too after hot wiring it from the battery."

I don't completely follow you on this part. In my mind there is no voltage from the battery to the fan; it has to pass through the thermoswitch first. Maybe we're just saying the same thing different ways. Can you clarify?

[alleyoop]

OK, here is how to test the THERMO Switch, take off the wires to it and touch them....if the fan comes on the switch is bad.
Alleyoop

[bbunce1]

Thank you guys again and sorry if I am fuzzy on all this. I am definitely a student when it comes to working on mechanical things.
I will test out the thermo switch today first by touching the leads and seeing if the fan comes on. If the fan comes on, need a need thermo switch. If it doesn't, then I'll check whether or not it is getting voltage once the scooter warms up.

I don't completely follow you on this part. In my mind there is no voltage from the battery to the fan; it has to pass through the thermoswitch first. Maybe we're just saying the same thing different ways. Can you clarify?
I am still trying to figure it out so what I said earlier is incorrect. I will tinker with it some more and explain it.
Thanks again guys.

[bbunce1]

Thanks

[bbunce1]

Update: I found the problem! After reinstalling the thermo switch and radiator, I ran the scooters engine and it began to reheat again. I played with the pins a little still nothing. Then I followed the wire up to where it was tied to the bundle of wires that goes to the front powering the dash and headlights. I kind of smooched all the wires together and the fan started working. The scooter then cooled down to about 1/2 on the gauge which is a little warmer than when I was riding in the winter. Probably because the weather here is warmer now too. I wrapped the wires tighter and zipped tied the problem area so it won't be loose.

Next I plan to put some of the pieces back on the scooter, like the seat, )so I can test ride it around the block. I hope the scooters overheating issue hasn't caused any engine damage. I did notice some non-oily black specs in the coolant.

The idle is a little high at 2200 rpms too so that might be another reason it is warmer. Since everything is still off the scooter, I'll try to lower that to about 1700-1800 rpms which is what the factory setting is supposed to be.

I will keep you updated and thanks again for your help.

[scot]

nice you found it ,yes I found my fan kicks in at the half way point to on the gage ,an would guess other then when rideing will probley stay there when its hotter ,atleast you got through takeing all that plastic off ,good job,its not easy ,an I feel as though I will be getting there again one day but hope not to soon .when warmed up I think they said 2000 was ok ,because of the high rpms on these ,probley not as long was not long time ,I would change the oil an just keep an eye on things wich I will be doing the same .my plan is many short rides around town until I feel good about a longer trip

[ellpee]

Well, if I understand you correctly there's something going on in that bundle of wires that needs to be REALLY fixed. Just smooshing them all together apparently gives you a better contact, but that still means you have bare wire or something going on inside that bundle. Highly suggest you run a new wire from the "out" side of the fan fuse, all the way down to the "in" side of the thermoswitch, using whatever butt connectors or the like are needed to give you a new, fully intact 12v feed to the thermoswitch.

[bbunce1]

Yeah, that's what I've been thinking too. Better do it right because eventually it will come loose again.  I've never been very good at making wires so I might take it to an electric shop for them to make me a wire with all the connections. I'll just bring them the faulty wire and ask them to duplicate it. Hopefully that won't be to expensive.

[JR]

The connections are easy to trace and fix too. One can soldier and use heat shrink or even good electrical tape or even use crimp style connectors too.

You're on the right track and we're here if you need us.

JR

[ellpee]

Not so hard. You need to identify the wire coming off the "out" side of the fan fuse, and cut it off a few inches downstream. Then you need to find the wire on the "in" side of the thermoswitch (colors should be the same as the above) and cut it off a few inches upstream. Then you just need a continuous piece of wire, probably about 14 gauge will do, and two butt connectors (Autozone or anybody will tell you what those are if you don't know). At the fuse end, strip the insulation from a bit of the cut-off end and insert it into one end of a butt connector and crimp it (pliers will do, but a special tool for that only costs maybe $5). Put your NEW wire, also stripped of insulation a little bit, into the other end of that butt connector and crimp it. THEN, down at the other end, by the thermoswitch, strip the ends of your new wire and of the original "in" wire and do the same, i.e., put each into one end of a butt connector and crimp them. Presto, you have replaced the faulty wire in that bundle with your own, guaranteed intact, new wire. You may want to secure this new wire at a couple places along the way with zip ties or similar. But it's not hard, for heaven's sake don't pay some guy $50 an hour to do it for you. If this isn't clear, PM me and I'll try to send some pictures.

[bbunce1]

Update: I followed ellpee's instructions and it tested good. The guy at the electric shop was also very helpful. After I put most of the pieces back on the scooter, I took it out for a 15 mile ride at about 40-45 mph. The gauge never went more than a little above 1/4 on the gauge. The weather here in Florida was about 65 with winds 20-25 mph. So the electrical problem seems to be fixed. I am going to make an emergency kit with cable and tools just in case I have overheating issues again. (cable that goes from battery straight to fan) Of course that won't help me if the fan goes bad. I am going to take it for a ride again tomorrow to sub teach at a school that is about 8 miles away.

The only issue I have now is putting the scooter completely back together. Some of the holes aren't lining up between the back plastic and center. (hole closest to the battery) I probably just need to put some pressure on the pieces to get them lined up. Until I get that done I can't put the side plastics back on. Probably will wait until next weekend just to take a break. I'll take that time to also ensure all the screws are still good and tight.
.
At least mechanically, everything is working thanks to all y'alls help. I feel like I can handle just about any issue that comes up with your support.

[JR]

Awesome! We're always here to help!

JR

[scot]

well it seems if when you bunched up the wires an that made the fan work you may have a kink in the wire or check the connection all the way through while you have it apart,