2011 Roketa Fan Switchout By ellpee (Read 2,024 times)

[ellpee]

Thanks, Alley; I really need to get in the habit of running my searches on ATV as well as Scooter. Now I'll log onto Roketa and tell them to pound sand.

[scot]

I think I like your idea about just getting another back up battery to carry around ,they got one similar to the one in them 25.98 free shipping 12v 7ah,my guess is it seem this site seems to be saying they can get you any part for these scooters ,I guess everyones busy on the holiday week ,happy holidays to you ,an yes seem we have a fine cooling system ,I am looking into the lights an led an whear everyone is getting them ?let me know how the fan works out ,that way I can tell if mine is 8amp ,I guess I would change mine too ,if it was that easy though nothing is easy sometimes ,thanks ellpee

[ellpee]

Hoping after all the electrical changes I won't need that backup battery, but we'll see. I got most of my LEDs from Warden_jp2002, an EBay vendor Alley pointed me to. Hong Kong or somewhere in Asia, but free shipping no matter how small the order. Bought two 1157 equivalents at the local Honda dealer, but they were $18 each; considerably cheaper with Warden.

[scot]

oh yes i see I will right that down thank you I doing ebay I sell jewelry on ebay ,I was looking at 12ah they say is for the Honda reflex,an they 14ah as well an both same size as ours , mabey the 9ah in ours is under poweredas well as the power regulater  ,I had the option to upgrade more powerful battery ,for 49.99 but I declined that ,I did upgrade to the epa approved carb adjustable ,wow no wonder I know getting of topic hear isee the healight 35watts i see an 18 watt for 8,95 ,I did find him is there part#s I need to know about for headlight taillight an turn lights ,I may get the 12ah for 33.00 an have it ,a 35 watt healight no ownder there having charging problems ,that is near a 3rd the batterys power 120watts ,I think the fact that I plan on running a power inverter I should move up to 12ah ,though I am sure it want hurt to change the bulbs,an putting a different stereo underseat an speaker on trunk in back I seen one on youtube thank you sir 8-|I like that one

[ellpee]

All things being equal, 12Ah is certainly going to be better than 9Ah, no matter what else. The price for that 12Ah seems suspiciously low, though, so buyer beware -- you get what you pay for, as the saying goes.

As to the headlights, one calculator I found says a 35w bulb draws about 3 amps, so if you have two I guess that's 6 amps, yes, a considerable drain on a 9Ah battery along with everything else it's supporting. Still hoping somebody will chime in with where in the circuit I should cut in to put an on/off switch on my headlights, but so far no volunteers with that wisdom. If I don't get any adult supervision and guidance in that regard, I guess I'll just find a way to cut into the + side of both headlamps and put in an on/off switch. (That's assuming everything else I'm doing doesn't bring the enroute charging rate up to at least 13+).

You seem to have a lot more "add-ons" in mind than I do, so yeah, all the battery power you can get and all the light power you can save is probably a good way to go. Me, I just want the sucker to start every time and not poop out on me halfway through a 100-mile tour.

[alleyoop]

The best guy to help where to cut in to put the off an on headlight switch would be JR. He has two 250s so he is familiar with the wiring going to the headlights.
Alleyoop

[ellpee]

Since I'm not too far from replacing the left switch assembly, I'm wondering if cutting into one of the nine wires there would serve to turn the headlights on and off. That switch has the hi and lo settings, and also the hi beam flasher switch, so it seems plausible that one of those wires might do the trick. Ah, but which one? If that turns out to be an option it would certainly be convenient, as I could then easily mount the actual switch on the left dash without the need to mess around too much underneath the front plastic.

[bobf]

Dec 22, 2013 11:23:29 GMT -6 scot said:

I think I like your idea about just getting another back up battery to carry around ,they got one similar to the one in them 25.98 free shipping 12v 7ah,my guess is it seem this site seems to be saying they can get you any part for these scooters ,I guess everyones busy on the holiday week ,happy holidays to you ,an yes seem we have a fine cooling system ,I am looking into the lights an led an whear everyone is getting them ?let me know how the fan works out ,that way I can tell if mine is 8amp ,I guess I would change mine too ,if it was that easy though nothing is easy sometimes ,thanks ellpee

I thought I commented on this back up battery idea when this post came up. I don't see any of my post here or any responses to it. So here I go again.

I see that the back up might be a waste of money as once you buy the battery and pour in the acid, it is on its way to failure. So I see it as a possible savior but not one to bet all your money on. That is a lot of money just bouncing around and getting old.

I hope I can get a few responses on my thinking.
.

[ellpee]

My situation is, I only bought the second 9Ah when the original crapped out right in front of the auto parts store. Otherwise, I intended to upgrade to a 14Ah or better only when the original died, or when I found that all my other dinking around with the charging system hadn't fixed my problem. But now that I have the second 9Ah, keeping it fully charged in the trunk gives me warm fuzzy feelings until I start seeing better numbers on the ol' voltmeter. I have the necessary cable to just plug it into the primary battery the same way I do the battery tender, which in effect gives me 18Ah when they're both fully charged. In my case, of course, the more likely scenario is, battery #1 will be down well below 9Ah so with battery #2 in parallel I may have a combined 12Ah or so.

[earlylight160]

If the number 1 battery is down, it is my understanding that paralleling the two batteries will result in the bad one being charged by the good one, thus draining the good battery.

[ellpee]

Will have to check on that; if so, swapping the two will have to be my solution. In my simple mind, if one is at 3 and the other at 9, even assuming they "level out" at 6+6, I'll still have 12Ah to work with. But I'm no electrician. Time to ask Batteries Plus, I guess.

[scot]

well I did find a battery that comes with the acid ,so I guess I can use it as back up an not put the acid in it until there is failer if any I may just in spring run the 12ah was 33.00 I like to shop for best bargain ,an I did not want to get one was already activated ,then I can keep the 9ah as a back up ,I did see the helix uses the 12ah ,an I though the fact my seller was offering the 12ah for 49.99 ,is why I desided to get one an save a few bucks ,if anyone want to know who I got it from an the # ,it is none activated like said ,yes bob the 7ah was a mistake. I relize they come with 9ah now an the Honda of 2009 takes the 12ah ,an that I will be puting power outlet in to

[ellpee]

Having a spare with the acid not yet in is certainly an option; of course once disaster strikes and you have to put in the acid, the clock starts ticking as far as battery life is concerned. In addition, from what I've read, when you first put the acid in the battery's not going to be up to full performance. In my situation, where I bought it/filled it/cranked, it did have enough oomph to get the job done, but as soon as I got home I put it on the regular charger (not the tender) until it showed full. One place I read says you should in fact repeat that several times with a new battery, i.e., charge it fully, run it down a bit, charge it fully again, etc., until you've done it 3-4 times.

Batteries Plus says the weaker battery will serve as a "bottleneck" if you connect two in parallel, so you'll only get as much juice through to the starter circuit as the weaker battery will carry. I'll probably get other opinions, but for now that suggests if #1 craps out, totally removing it and installing #2 is the way to go.

[ellpee]

Latest update on charging issue: put all the plastic back on and went for a spin. New <3 amp fan, LEDs in running lights and tail/brake lights. (LEDs for turn signals still coming, but those are only a factor when turned on, which they never were during this run.)

Sorry to report, no apparent difference in charging situation. Up to almost 13v at first, steady around 12.5v enroute UNTIL THE FAN KICKED ON, then slightly below 12v. Back home, engine off, about 11v after a ~90-minute ride with 3-4 stops along the way.

So, other than putting in the turn signal LEDs when they arrive, only other thing I can think to do is that on/off switch for the headlights, so they aren't drawing a continuous 5-6 amps the whole time the key is on. Really frustrating.

MUSINGS ON CHRISTMAS DAY: peeking under the front plastics, I see three wires going to each headlight socket -- green, white, and blue. If my YY250T wiring diagram can be trusted, the green provides the ground connection. Seems to me, therefore, that the simplest solution for an on/off switch would be to cut the two green wires and route them through a dash-mounted switch to an appropriate frame connection. Electricians out there, am I thinking straight?

[JR]

Through all of this two things stand out that haven't been checked. Cruiser and more that I know of have finally got this scooter to hold enough charge to keep her going by doing the things you've done plus a couple more.

I've seen no mention of going through the fuse box wires and connections? Pull it, out and check the prongs that the fuses plug into to make sure they are clean and making very good contact with the fuse. On the back side where you see them connected make sure each one is soldiered properly, if not then do so. The fuse box is poor on these scooters,

Secondly folks that have worked on this system will all tell you that the blocking diode is a source of voltage/charge loss, simple to replace with a relay. It's bee noted that as much as 0.7 volts have been gained by replacing it which in your case is huge.

Lets do a simple test, pull the plug on the diode and jump it, the end of the harness plug where it plugs into, don't panic as soon as you do this the headlights will come on, we are just testing. Jump it with a heave type wire then start the scooter and let her idle a bit and then check the charge at the battery with it idling and then revved up. Wait for her to warm up, and the fan come on and check it with it revved up.

With the LED's and lower amp fan you should be doing good enough to keep a charge, something else is wrong.

Lastly yes you can put a simple on/off toggle switch on the headlights. I would only do it on the low beam side. The high beam can be left alone and the passing switch too because it just goes to the black wire on the key switch and when pressed activates the high beam only.

Working on it with the plastics on = tough. But you probably can put a toggle switch on the low beam wire (which should be white) with just removing the windshield cover and windshield itself.

I would check the other two items before I did the switch thing.

JR