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Post by scot on Dec 25, 2013 13:29:44 GMT -6
yes I see the battery I found is on ebay ,yes the price seems low ,but they sell a lot of batterys ,I guess I may just put the 12ah,an run that full time ,I know they do the Honda a powerful battery ,I actually found 2 places selling at that price ,one was sealed already though,its name tms ytz12s yes its Chinese but so are a lot of them. tmshelmet seller has a great score of 99.4 an with 16000+ sales that's great score on ebay ,its the Honda reflex my mistake ,2001 to 2009.,my 9ah I did that yesterday it took another slow 2 hour charge ,but Its good slow one is the ,5amp mini charger I have is 18 hours next time after I run it ,the 12ah would be 24 hour slow charge at .5amp half an amp or 18watts one hour for every half amp ,when I was buying jap bikes they would tell me how they would do the over night charge was the best for the battery they used very exspencive chargers to ,so I guess I need to continue that I think the one I have is underpowered for the scooter after one month siting I did not take the volts in it at the time but it seemed it was running down quickly at indoor temp 60 to 70 the 12ah in spring will get 24hr charge I had got the 18watt wall charger about 7 years ago it never let me down I alllways used it when winter was hear I will check to 9ah after one month the volts meter I just plan on trying the more powerful battery wich makes sence they were trying to sell it to me for a reason an if the reflex take a 12ah why would these not,if the 12ah does not do it then I would go into all the things the guys are talking about you all can do the research youself I not trying to know it all ,just the simplest way to have more power from my charging system a more powerful battery ,then again mabey I am wrong an I know your trying to achieve certain things with the scoot like the on off switch for healight mine the head light does not come on until it starts i like that my 2006 dl 1000 the head light came on before I hit the start button ,thanks Ellpee
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Post by ellpee on Dec 25, 2013 22:01:53 GMT -6
... I've seen no mention of going through the fuse box wires and connections? ...Secondly folks that have worked on this system will all tell you that the blocking diode is a source of voltage/charge loss, simple to replace with a relay. ... JR OEM fusebox has been entirely replaced (with one from Autozone, if I recall correctly), and I feel pretty confident about all the connections there. Also replaced the diode with a relay at the same time. (You may or may not remember I relocated the fusebox, relay, and R/R to a home-made rack under the seat for easier access.) So those two things are not likely to be the source of my problems. HOWEVER, despite the fact that I replaced the allegedly juice-guzzling OEM fan with a 3-amper, when I think about it, the voltage drop STILL clearly occurs when the fan kicks in, so simple logic (only kind I'm good at) suggests that SOMETHING in that fan circuit is the culprit. Hard to imagine, since it's about as simple as they come: battery+ --> ignition switch --> fusebox --> coolant temp sensor --> fan --> ground. No fancy electronics involved -- well, maybe the thermistor -- so what could possibly go wrong to cause such a voltage drop? Something, clearly, but darned if I can figure out what it might be. I probably will still go ahead with the headlight on/off switch idea, but I can't get it out of my head that somehow the fan has to be what's hosing me over. |
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Post by JR on Dec 26, 2013 7:21:19 GMT -6
OEM fusebox has been entirely replaced (with one from Autozone, if I recall correctly), and I feel pretty confident about all the connections there. Also replaced the diode with a relay at the same time. (You may or may not remember I relocated the fusebox, relay, and R/R to a home-made rack under the seat for easier access.) So those two things are not likely to be the source of my problems. HOWEVER, despite the fact that I replaced the allegedly juice-guzzling OEM fan with a 3-amper, when I think about it, the voltage drop STILL clearly occurs when the fan kicks in, so simple logic (only kind I'm good at) suggests that SOMETHING in that fan circuit is the culprit. Hard to imagine, since it's about as simple as they come: battery+ --> ignition switch --> fusebox --> coolant temp sensor --> fan --> ground. No fancy electronics involved -- well, maybe the thermistor -- so what could possibly go wrong to cause such a voltage drop? Something, clearly, but darned if I can figure out what it might be. I probably will still go ahead with the headlight on/off switch idea, but I can't get it out of my head that somehow the fan has to be what's hosing me over.
My bad Ellpee, I forgot.
One way to find out if the fan thermoswitch is losing power. It is a simple switch that activates when it reaches a certain temp and like all switches the contacts could be poor and not making a real clean contact. Remove the two wires from it, fire her up and then manually connect the switch wires and see what the charge voltage is?
One last thing, have you made sure the negative battery cable is making very good contact with the frame? They paint the frame with a thick coat of paint and one has to sometimes scrape the paint off and then re-connect the cable. Poor grounding will cost you amps/volts, also make sure the R/R is making a good ground contact and make sure the engine is grounded.
I'll agree something is funny?
JR |
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Post by ellpee on Dec 26, 2013 9:08:35 GMT -6
One of the three "outbound" wires on the R/R sends charging power to the relay and then on to the battery, right? (On the wiring diagram it looks like it's the red one.) What's a "good" reading for that wire? Presumably at least 12v, but I would guess more than that ... ?
Will also do the check on the thermoswitch (Drat, have to remove that radiator shroud again!) and the battery ground. The ground is probably good though, as for my first 2500 miles or so I didn't have this problem; it has only popped up in the last 500 miles or so. That makes me lean more in the direction of a thermoswitch gone or going bad.
Stay tuned, more news later.
Two hours later: Fired up the scoot and checked what's going on at the relay. on the "in" side, about 13.1-13.2 coming from the R/R at idle, up to 13.5-13.6 at medium RPM. On the "out" side, roughly the same, maybe a 10th less. So no significant loss there; more would make me happer, but I guess anything significantly north of 12 is good news. Fan came on while I was testing, as usual dashboard voltmeter dropped below 12 at that point. Next stop, thermoswitch, I guess. Hope I can get at it without too much trouble. Will jumper it, bypassing the switch entirely, and see what the dash voltmeter says when the fan is/isn't running.
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Post by scot on Dec 26, 2013 21:25:04 GMT -6
I guess that sounds right but I don't know much I know one thing I feel like if I ever have to take the plasic off again I should do all the upgrades then ,as it seems so easy to break but then again when i was takeing mine part was to cold ,so just going to ride it in the spring an see how it acts ,then in warmer weather think about tinkering more the weather has been up an down not to many 40 s an to cold like 15 ,,they say each year there imrpoveing certain things on these scooters ,I am the kinda guy if it is not brock don't fix it ,so will see how the 2013 runs in a few months ,after the atv 8 to 9 years ago with the non ajustable carb shows how much I knew I did not know until later that was the case. though I one time took the carb off a straight 6 ford van cleaned it up put back in an it ran great those were the days ,I am glad to have something that so far stays running from china ,let us no about the fan
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Post by ellpee on Dec 27, 2013 9:57:30 GMT -6
Yeah, despite all the advice about a full PDI on Day 1 I've not done that, piecemealing it as problems arise. When I did attempt to remove plastics, more often than not a point arose where the piece was loose but wouldn't come completely off without what struck me as excessive, might-break-something force. I'm tempted, maybe in spring just before I'm going to put the Roketa to bed for the summer anyway, to suck it up, pull the seat and all plastic, and give it a 100% going over. One thing I would definitely do at that point is find ways to modify the whole wiring harness situation so that most, if not all, of the darn plugs could henceforth be reached WITHOUT pulling plastic. Fan replacement: plug is inaccessible, have to pull plastic. Radiator thermal switch, plug is inaccessible, have to pull plastic. R/R and CDI, inaccessible, have to pull plastic. Headlights, inaccessible, have to pull plastic. Handlebar switches, inaccessible, have to pull plastic. Dashboard gauges, inaccessible, have to pull plastic. GRRRRRRRRR!!!
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Post by scot on Dec 28, 2013 17:30:54 GMT -6
 s ellpee I hear you today was warm 38 so i fired the red dragon with wopping16.5 hp,i thought about getting stickers that say that get few laughs,i do plan to do a lot of what your doing an JR was right about my rear fender,the lower one I see all the bolts ,but get the feeling the main one the plate is attached to I seen 2 under an tightened them ,? but got the feeling there is more bolts holding that on then 2.,have you took your upper side panals off ,it looks like they come off without removeing lower ones?.so anyhow while tighning some bolts found some loose on the exhaust the peace in between the motor an muffler an as I went along tight others to seems 9 10 11 mm ,I guess I better try to get every one I can think of ,surely the ones for safety ,some are tight others not ,some so loose its disgusting ,they say when they do the pdi they check that to ,but thats  ,they are sending me a new rack as there was a 2 inch gouge in the paint an touch up paint ,scews for muffler an the main screws for plastic,well I got the battery today 12ah ,an wont activate it until spring , ,anyhow time will tell with that ,yes supposed to get back to more snow rain an then real cold ,so chilling well not long 14weeks or so will be spring or close. time goes fast this year not fast enough ,though as we get older it does go fast for some reason already got 2 coats of wax on it . |
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Post by ellpee on Dec 28, 2013 17:58:59 GMT -6
I have a sticker on the back of my Roketa trunk that is the standard Harley-Davidson logo, except if you read it close enough is says "Hardly Davidson"! Haven't gotten my butt kicked yet, but there's always tomorrow. When I attempted to take off the rear fenders so I could work on the R/R, as I recall there were three bolts involved up in the rack/trunk area, but that was some time ago. I got both fenders very loose, but they were still hooked together by something at the top under where the rack sits, AND it became obvious I'd also need to disconnect and remove the entire rear light module, so I just pulled both still-connected fenders up and back as much as I could. That was enough to let me get at the R/R and CDI. (As part of that job I cut and extended the wires enough to relocate the R/R to the under-seat compartment.) Not sure what you mean by "upper side panels." On my 2011 the two rear fenders are in effect the upper side panels for the rear half of the scooter. Then there are two narrow plastic panels underneath the "running boards," and the big plastic cowling that covers the entire front of the scoot. There are also a couple smaller plastic bits and pieces, one by the license plate, one over the windshield bolts, etc. Of all that, the only larger plastics I've COMPLETELY removed are the two narrow panels. The rear fenders and front cowling, got them loose but not completely off. Attachments:Hardly-Davidson.doc (71 KB)
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Post by scot on Dec 29, 2013 12:19:38 GMT -6
yes the red upper plastic is what I ment thanks ellpee ,I am sure when the time comes warmer weather will make for not hurrying ,an black plastic to the upper an lower fenders I guess I allways been used to just one fender for the tire ,I don't see the one over the tire smaller one doing anything of need except keep dirt from getting up to other upper black tire fender .I guess I could see takeing mine off o don't plan on rideing on dirt roads an to me its just doing nothing ,now the upper one yes ,i said to jr I think it just plain to close to the tire ,I guess I will think of a few thing to modify as well though were not all alike wich is good we leran a lot from thought an actions of others thanks ellpee ,today is last day then into deep freeze ,oh the battery ,I asked the man how long I could store it without acid in it ,he said I should activate it make sure it work right ,i said why I am not going to use it for 3 months an why I odered that kind,oh well whats 3 months I may just do the slow 18 hour charge gives me something to do on freezing days
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