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Hey thor-

In regards to the 4 speakers being wired to 2 channels, if you're not concerned about fade control, you might consider keeping it hooked up that way if your new stereo can handle it.

Assuming the speakers are 4ohms each and they're wired parallel, you'll have 2 ohm at each speaker terminal on the head unit. You're going to maximize power that way (You can get roughly 50-100% more power at 2 ohms vs 4 ohms.) Again - assuming your HU can handle a 2 ohm load.

The reason I recommend this comes back to power issues. If you can run those 4 off 2 channels @ 2 ohms, and assuming it's sufficiently loud for your tastes, then the HU (or amp) itself is going to pull less from the battery than 4 speakers @ 4 channels @ 4 ohms.

Now BE CAREFUL though. Most (if not ALL) head units CANNOT run at 2 ohms. You mention your new radio can run 2 channels.. yes it can.. but I'm almost positive that's 2 channels at 4 ohms. If that's the case and you run it at 2 ohms, and it's not rated for that, you're eventually going to burn it out. If you need to wire it that way, and your new radio can't handle it, you might want to consider a low power 2-channel amp.

That said, I'm almost willing to bet money that the stock speakers on that scooter are 8ohm speakers. There's no way a china radio is going to run 2 channels at 2 ohms, so I'll bet the 4 speakers are 8 ohms, wired to 4 ohms @ 2 channels. In that case you'll be fine! Unfortunately you can't test that with your multimeter - hooking it up to the speakers does not give the correct ohm rating (they rate speaker impedance via a different process.) Can you access the back of one of the speakers to see if it's stamped on it? If that's not possible, does your new radio offer any form of thermal protection? If so you can just wire it up.. and if it DOES overheat (which will happen after extended use at high volumes at 2 ohms, if it isn't rated for that,) the radio will simply shut off. Then you'll know for sure. I wouldn't recommend this if the radio doesn't have that safety feature built in though.

I apologize if you already know all this!

Man what a relief. I don't know about you but with all the pain and suffering these scooters put you through, when it DOES work, I'm ecstatic.. overjoyed even. It's almost similar to the feeling of when you get the scooter for the first time.. "YESSSSSSS" (as you hold your breath praying this isn't a temporary celebration..)

I think I can honestly say that ONLY Chinese scooters can give you that feeling LOL!!

So I got the new brake assembly (master cylinder, hose, caliper and pads) in today. It was all one unit off a scooter - with fluid still in it - it actually functioned and compressed the caliper right out the box lol.


So anyway, I took the MC off the hose, put it on mine, and I could IMMEDIATELY tell a difference. The brakes actually wanted to bleed this time! Before, nothing came out of that nipple. Now, brake fluid was flowin' like crazy. With some help from the wife and 15-month old, the brakes were ready to go.

Here's one thing I noticed. I kept bleeding it and bleeding it and bleeding it, expecting it to get as hard as it originally was. You see, when the scooter was new, the rear brake lever was super hard. I mean, 1/4 of an inch was all it would go until it engaged the brake. The stopping power back there was never that great, but I chalked that up to normal rear-brake operation. So while bleeding these, it never got that hard. In fact I could squeeze it down all the way to about an inch from the handle. I finally said forget it, I'm taking it out to test.

WOW - The left handle is a lot softer now but MAN it stops WAYYYY better. It's FAR smoother now too. The front brake, which I previously thought stopped well, now has LESS stopping power than the rear. I can, for the first time, lock the rear up if I wanted to.

So, is this how it's supposed to be? Should I bleed my front brake now as well? Because it's a tad 'harder' than the back brake, but definitely not as smooth as the back.

All in all very happy with the stopping performance now! Didn't expect this to happen at all.. I would have been just happy as a clam getting it to stop like it did previously.

$1800 after CA reg, + $240 shipping + $100 tax = $2140.

That's a steal.. why couldn't I find this place in 2008 LOL

I don't think the general public knows about these prices though. CL isn't full of a bunch of scooter pro's

Alrighty, paranoia got the best of me. I Just ordered the whole assembly for $60 (the one on eBay with the master cylinder, brake line and caliper.)

I finally figured, hey, it comes with some new brake pads (I think.) And if it doesn't, I'll part out the hydraulic hose and caliper to get my money back out of it.

I also contacted the guy who was selling higher-quality o-ring cups for the ATV's. I'm going to mail him my old ones and he'll match them up on his side. If he has matching sizes, he's offered to offer them as a kit to us Scooter owners - they're supposed to be much higher quality and last the life of the scooter. I guess in the Chinese ATV world the problem I'm having is pretty common.

Well if you think it will work then I'm game. Does it have the correct 'brake light switch' on it? I couldn't really tell from that pic.

Ugh.. nevermind.. those look different..