|
Post by rapidjim on Jan 20, 2012 14:20:20 GMT -6
Nice Crankshaft. Now where was that crank when I was building Alley's 150? Jim
|
|
|
Post by rapidjim on Jan 20, 2012 13:33:53 GMT -6
Now I am not real happy!!!! All this board vrs board crap is getting ridiculous!!!! It is one thing the have issues with a person or two but, to make a shotgun blast statement is just Bull!!!! Here is what I am talking about. COMPETITORS you kidding me, Now yes because all the REAL knowledeable people are gone from here and over on the two other forums. What am I chopped liver??? How dare you make such a statement? I am still here and still a member of the other two boards. Maybe I should reconsider my membership on the other two boards. Jim/Owner Rapid Repair
|
|
|
Post by rapidjim on Jan 19, 2012 15:16:01 GMT -6
Yeah I am a member here also and I do contribute. Just hasn't been much action lately. I saw his post on another forum so that is where I answered it.
Of course I told him to check the connector first and gave a link as to how to pull the cowl.
Sad to say there is not a "good" wiring diagram for this scooter that I am aware of, at least one that shows the digital dash. Now it is time for me to research for one.
Jim
|
|
|
Strange
by: rapidjim - Jan 11, 2012 10:05:01 GMT -6
Post by rapidjim on Jan 11, 2012 10:05:01 GMT -6
Strange thing happen today....running about 45 miles and cruising at 57mph after a short stop and the motor just stopped. I pulled over checked everything via visual and even oil level and temp. Found nothing wrong at all. Started her..Zoom..started right up. I got back on the road and made 24 miles to Brooksville no problems, did my things there and checked the trike and all was well. I than hit the road for home 48 miles at speeds of 52-58 mph and no problems. What the4 heck?? Mike Check to make sure your plug wire is good and solid on the plug and the wires going to your coil are secure. Jim
|
|
|
Post by rapidjim on Jan 7, 2012 8:06:55 GMT -6
Thanks JR
|
|
|
Post by rapidjim on Jan 6, 2012 16:21:38 GMT -6
Update, Just the facts: Well it took 3 days and a few emails and empty promises on MRP's part and finally a *&^% phone call and hold time but, I got my domain name .rapidrepairpowersports.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.rapidrepairpowersports.com off MRPs server and it now links you to my trike site until I get a website for parts built and transferred to a server. I am here to tell you that I would never have thought that MRP would have treated a loyal dealer the way I was treated and sink so low as to link my website to a competitor and then to their own site. It took me 30 minutes on the phone with Go Daddy to get my domain straighten out, transferred and MRP locked out of doing anymore changes or re links. I will say that the people at GO Daddy were fantastic! As far as me dropping MRP in the first place was because common parts and performance parts were always out of stock and no answer as to when they would be in stock. My customers had to go elsewhere and I was loosing sales and money. Didn't make good business sense to keep my website with them and use them as a distributor. Draw your own conclusions about MRP. I will not bad mouth them, that is not my style. Jim/Owner Rapid Repair
|
|
|
Post by rapidjim on Jan 4, 2012 10:13:24 GMT -6
I have asked admin to remove my rapid repair power sports banner from this forum.
Until then, if you click the banner it takes you to MR Scooter website. My other banner for trike sales is okay with no issues.
I AM IN NO WAY connected to with this company.
I have contacted MRP and asked them why this has been done. As of yet I have not received an answer back.
I feel this is totally wrong to link my old site to a competitor.
More Later
Jim/Owner Rapid Repair
|
|
|
Post by rapidjim on Dec 30, 2011 13:42:30 GMT -6
For a limited time I am offering $150.00 off any 250cc or larger trike or $75.00 off any 150cc trike that is in stock at the Ice Bear Warehouse. As always no hidden charges and shipping is included in the price for the lower 48 states.
This is only being offered to Forum Members and is NOT being advertised on my site.
Jim/Owner Rapid Repair
|
|
|
Post by rapidjim on Dec 23, 2011 10:04:19 GMT -6
I had to make a very difficult decision this week. As of the first of the year I will stop using MRP as my parts supplier for my website .rapidrepairpowersports.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.rapidrepairpowersports.com. This decision was made mostly to the fact that a lot of the common parts that folks need were continually out of stock and I was loosing sales. So they went elsewhere and I do not blame them, I would. No sales no money, it is that plain and simple. Credit Card fees and high shipping rates contributed to the decision. Shipping rates were controlled from the MRP warehouse. In most cases they use Fed Ex, the customer didn't have an option for who they wanted their parts shipped through and that costs the customer more money for his part. MRP seems to have changed were their priorities lie and it is not with common low profit Chinese parts. They seem to be more interested in high end, high profit parts and that is not what we are about here. I am still retaining my dealer status with them at this time so if/when I need this type of part I can get it. This only applies to my parts website and NOT my trikes, trike parts or my retail store. I will be expanding my trike site and adding more to that . I am also looking into setting up another parts site with a different distributor but, that won't happen right away. There are good online folks to buy parts from, just look at the banner ads above. We are not going out of business just getting rid of what is costing us money and not providing a return. I will still be providing tech support and sales to those that want it and will still be able to get MRP parts. If I can be of service just drop me a line or give me a call. Jim/Owner Rapid Repair
|
|
|
Post by rapidjim on Dec 10, 2011 8:41:24 GMT -6
Yes, written for the IB 300 which is a Linhai.
Jim
|
|
|
Post by rapidjim on Dec 9, 2011 11:25:02 GMT -6
It seems lately I have gotten more than the usual emails and phone calls concerning charging systems on the IB 300cc trikes. After a call yesreday, I sat down with my charging system reference materials and knowledge of electricity/electronics and wrote this guide. Hope it helps those that need help. Testing a Charging System On a 300cc Trike 3Phase Stator This procedure is for checking a 3 phase stator. This stator is easily recognized by the fact it has a plug with 3 yellow wires in it. Although I wrote this for Ice Bear’s 300 cc trike, the same procedures apply to other Chinese 3 phase stators. I will keep this as simple as I possibly can. You should have some basic knowledge of electricity and how to use a multimeter. I strongly suggest you use a good digital meter and not a cheap $10.00 one. Using a good meter will give you more accurate results. Keep in mind the voltages I give are optimum. First and foremost make sure your battery is fully charged. These charging systems are not meant to charge a completely dead battery! Also check that all plugs and wires are tight and do not have corrosion on them. Double check chassis grounds! If you get all the way through Step 6 without a problem, then you have a bad battery. Step 1 - Switch the multimeter to DC Volts. Switch the range to 20 vdc. Connect the multimeter leads to the battery terminals, Red lead to positive and black lead to negative. Start and rev the engine up to around 2500 rpm. You should be reading between 12.8 vdc to 14.2 vdc. Rev the engine up and the voltage should increase not decrease. If so, your charging system is working correctly and you stop here. Otherwise go to Step 2. Step 2 – With the engine idling, connect the meter’s black lead to the battery’s positive post and the red lead to the red output wire on the voltage regulator. The voltage reading should be less than 0.2 vdc. If the voltage is above that repair the broken wire between the voltage regulator and the positive post of the battery then repeat Step 1. If the voltage is less than 0.2 vdc then go to Step 3. Step 3 - With the engine idling, connect the meter’s black lead to the battery’s negative post and the red lead to the negative output wire (ground) on the voltage regulator or the case of the regulator. The voltage reading should be less than 0.2 vdc. If the voltage is above that then there is a ground issue. Check all grounds, connections and leads between the voltage regulator and the battery. Make sure they are clean and no corrosion, repair as necessary, and then repeat Step 1. If the voltage is less than 0.2 vdc then go to Step 4. CAUTION!!
3 Phase stators are capable of AC voltages above 60 volts AC.
Be Careful! Step 4 – Shut the engine off and disconnect the plug with 3 yellow wires in it from the wiring harness. This plug is located on the right side of the engine. You will see a wire harness coming out of the top of the right side case, above the oil fill dipstick. Follow this harness to the plug with 3 yellow wires in it. Check for corrosion and clean if necessary. Switch the multimeter to the ohms function and set the meter to the lowest range, usually this is 200. At this point we are checking the stator coils. Place the meter leads across 2 of the yellow wires, record your reading. Then move one lead to the other yellow wire, record your reading. Then move the other lead to another yellow wire, record your reading. I usually do this twice to make sure I have checked all possible pair combinations. 3 separate readings. All readings should be between 0.5 ohms and 2.0 ohms. If any of the readings do not fall in this range, then you have a bad stator. Replace it and return to Step 1. If all readings are good go to Step 5. Step 5 – Leaving your multimeter in the ohms function and the lowest range, connect one lead to a GOOD motor ground. Using the other lead, check all 3 yellow wires. Your reading on the meter should show an open. What I mean by this is no resistance reading at all. Some digital meters will show OL others will show 1. If your meter shows 0 to 100 ohms, your stator is bad. Before replacing the stator, make sure there is not a frayed wire in the harness contacting ground. If not, then replace your stator and return to Step 1. If all 3 readings are good, then go to Step 6. CAUTION!!
3 Phase stators are capable of AC voltages above 60 volts AC.
Be Careful! Step 6 – Leaving the stator plug disconnected, start the engine. Set your mutimeter to AC. Set the meter’s range to 100 or better. Make sure you are using the ac function not the DC function. Once again we are going to check all 3 yellow wires like we did in Step 4 but, this time we are looking for voltage readings. At an idle, place the meter leads across 2 of the yellow wires, record your reading. Then move one lead to the other yellow wire, record your reading. Then move the other lead to another yellow wire, record your reading. I usually do this twice to make sure I have checked all possible pair combinations. 3 separate readings. All readings should be around 25 vac. Now, rev your engine RPM above 4000. Keeping your engine above 4000 take your 3 readings again. This time your readings should be above 60 vac. Let the engine return to idle. If any of the readings are bad, then replace your stator and go to Step 1. If all the readings are good then you have a bad voltage regulator. Replace it and go to Step 1. Hopefully you have success using this troubleshooting guide. If not, feel free to contact me. This guide was written using various sources and personal experience. Jim/Owner Rapid Repair
|
|
|
Post by rapidjim on Nov 20, 2011 10:55:00 GMT -6
Ice Bear ( Pacific Rim Int'l ) has discontinued selling the 150cc reverse trike. DF-150-TKA(B) manufactured by Dang Fong ( Spelling?)
According to my rep, 9 out of 10 they sold had problems so they quit selling them. After all they have to protect their reputation.
I have had calls for them and glad I stuck to my guns and didn't sell any after reading all the issues on this board.
Jim/Owner Rapid Repair
|
|
|
Post by rapidjim on Nov 10, 2011 15:43:46 GMT -6
From one Vet to all others who have served and are still serving:
Thank you for your Service and Happy Veterans Day!
Tomorrow is Veterans Day a time to reflect and thank a Vet ( or 2 or 3 or 4) for his/her service to our Country. All too often, as we go about our busy day, we don't seem to take time to think of those that have given us the freedoms that we cherish in the U.S.
For those of you enjoying the Federal Holiday tomorrow, why not take a moment of your day and reflect why you have the day off. For those of you, like me, that have to work, still take that moment. Something as simple as just a few seconds out of your day to thank a Vet, will last in that person's mind longer than you think.
I am very proud of how this Country ( for the most part) supports those that are serving in harms way overseas. Unlike over 40 years ago, today's citizens may not agree with the "War" but, they do support the troops fighting it. Those serving during Vietnam were not so lucky. But, we still served to give them the right and freedom to express themselves in any way they saw fit.
God Bless all of our Veterans!!
Jim/ MSgt, USAF Retired Disabled Vet
|
|
|
Post by rapidjim on Aug 18, 2011 14:11:30 GMT -6
Good to see another cheesehead.
Jim
|
|
|
Post by rapidjim on Aug 18, 2011 14:10:11 GMT -6
You are right when you say it can't be both ways. Most tachs that I ever hooked up that had a switch setting asked for cylinder count. Your question referred to pulses per revolution which would be 1 pulse per revolution of the crankshaft , plug firing from compression stroke to compression stroke would be 2. This is because it takes 2 full revolutions to go between compression strokes. IE: there are 2 top dead centers, compression and exhaust. Due to one magnet in the flywheel, the pickup will fire twice from compression to compression.
Jim
|
|