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Post by rapidjim on May 17, 2017 7:21:15 GMT -6
As many of you know, I have been dealing with Ice Bear and their products since 2009. I still do not understand why some shops have such an issue with these machines, unless they just don't care or can not be bothered with them. Any "mechanic" worth being called a mechanic or technician should not have any issues at all fixing these. One thing I have learned over the recent past, these so called mechanics are lost without a computer to tell them what is wrong. In fact, Tech Schools don't even teach how an internal combustion motor works, or even the basics. I feel we are going (or in) the "change parts till it works" theory.
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Post by rapidjim on May 9, 2017 7:26:30 GMT -6
Big difference between a $38,000 plus Goldwing and a $5000 Ice bear. Besides with the Goldwing all the assembly and inspections are done for you. If you think they don't use locktite think again.
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Post by rapidjim on May 5, 2017 7:21:19 GMT -6
Just to help, the orphan brass nipple on the choke side of the carb is a water inlet that is not used on a Magnum. If you look you will see another nipple just like it 90 degrees away. Normally this has a hose connecting the two.
The orphan hose has to be hooked to a vacuum source. Normally a hose comes from the intake manifold to a Y connector, then one end of the Y goes to that port and the other goes to the fuel pump.
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Post by rapidjim on May 4, 2017 7:48:12 GMT -6
Let me see if I can help. First off forget everything that was allegedly checked or done. I will try to explain how I would go about this if it came in my shop. First before you start , go to your local parts store and buy a can of spray carb cleaner. Now, make sure the battery is fully charged. Remove the hose for the air filter from the throat of the carb, Spray a small amount of carb cleaner directly into the inlet throat of the carb., then try to start, if it pops or starts then your electrics should be okay and you have a fuel issue. At this point assuming that it tried to start, and knowing you have a new carb, removing the fuel line from the carb, place in a jar and crank the motor, if fuel comes out as you are cranking then the pump and vacuum is okay, if not we have to check for a vacuum issue or a bad pump. There will be 2 lines coming up from the fuel pump. one you have already disconnect which is the fuel line. The other is a vacuum line that operates the pump. Make sure that vacuum line is attached to a vacuum tee at the carb. If that is good then I would suspect a bad pump, disconnected lines at the fuel pump. The fuel pumps on a 300cc is not that easy to get at, it is mounted by the tank and requires removal of body parts. A bit more involved than I want to get into at this point. Now, if it didn't try to start, we can check for spark. Remove the spark plug, with the spark plug in the spark plug wire, ground the case of the plug to the case of motor. A set of car jumper cables works very well for this so your hands are free. Crank the motor and check for spark. If spark is present, then you most-likely have a compression issue. A compression test is in order at this point. If you do not have spark, then we have an ignition issue. Testing the stator and coil is a lengthy explanation. I have a manual on my website that explains this in common terms. Free for all to use .rapidrepairpowersports.com/Yamaha%20YP250.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .rapidrepairpowersports.com/Yamaha%20YP250.html There is not a procedure for physically checking the CDI, if the rest of the system checks good then it is the CDI or wiring. Hope this gets you going in the right direction. |
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Post by rapidjim on Dec 24, 2016 7:49:17 GMT -6
MERRY CHRISTMAS to one and all!
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Post by rapidjim on Nov 11, 2016 8:09:38 GMT -6
Happy Veteran's Day to all my fellow vets!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Jim/MSGT Ret
USAF 1971-1991
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Post by rapidjim on Nov 7, 2016 7:48:45 GMT -6
Yamaha YP250
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Post by rapidjim on Nov 5, 2016 7:57:59 GMT -6
Hard starting is normally a carb issue or valve adjustment.
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Battery
by: rapidjim - Dec 28, 2015 7:56:50 GMT -6
Post by rapidjim on Dec 28, 2015 7:56:50 GMT -6
I recommend Interstate battery. They have a 1 year no hassle warranty. Any auto/motorcycle repair shop that carries them can get you one. You can call Interstate directly and they will give you the name of a dealer near you
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Post by rapidjim on Dec 24, 2015 7:45:02 GMT -6
Merry Christmas to all, hope your day is filled with love and Family
Jim
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Post by rapidjim on Nov 30, 2015 8:25:40 GMT -6
thanks JR but I'm no mechanic and I live in an apartment with rules. I have to take it to the shop every time something goes wrong and he's so busy all the time. When I said he'll have to take it apart and put it all back together at least a couple of times or more ......now he's asking me to go some where else but I can't. He's the only one in the county who works on imports. If I loose him I might as well sell my bike. We both just wanted to know the OEM ROLLER WEIGHT FROM THE FACTORY. That's it, that's all. I need to order something now and stop this experimental shit. Did any of you have big problems with OEM rollers..? NO, for most of us the rollers worked fine. I don't remember anyone saying my rollers are bad and need to be replaced. I'm sure that happens now and then. I don't think experiments, collecting data, coming to a conclusion, test results..? Not good enough sorry Nope...do it again. Please you guys, stop it already...I don't have a testing facility, I just want sliders. So I can not weight anything, I don't know how to take it apart. I'm going to loose my one mechanic. SO should I sell my bike or what..? I am here to tell you that rollers will develop flat spots and not work correctly, so YES people have had issues with rollers. I work on these machines day in and day out, as well as Hondas Yamahas ect. There is no difference in the design of Chinese vrs Japanese when it comes to working on them. Shops that work on Japanese machines and refuse to work on Chinese machines are just making excuses, they must not need the work. It is just like a shop that won't work on Fords because they work on Chevys. Just not make sense to me. As JR already said and I have seen it numerous times, variator weighs do differ from machine to machine, the reason could be all kinds of things from, mods to improve take off or top end to that is what we have on the shelf. You even see that in cars of the same make and model, one build date will have one part and a different build date will have a different part, see it all the time. The only way to be 100% sure of what you have to start with is to remove them and weight one, just no other way around it. Once you have that information then you need to decide what you are trying to achieve. The over simplified explanation that is very common is that heavier weights give you more top speed, and lighter weights more take off. This is true to a point, but not really. The variator weights control what is called the "constant engine speed". I'm sure you've noticed when you give your scoot full throttle it holds a certain engine speed while the vehicle accelerates. The variator controls this engine speed. If your engine is above it's maximum torque because of too light of of weight, it will not accelerate like it could. If your engine is below it's maximum torque because of too heavy of weight, it also will not accelerate well as it will bog. So, this being said, you can actually gain top speed AND acceleration by lightening the rollers. This is true for a number of reasons. Your engine has a certain engine speed, RPM, that is it's most powerful and most efficient, this is called the torque peak. You cannot get maximum performance without being at this RPM. Second, remember that the variator get to it's maximum contraction almost immediately upon acceleration, and holds there, it's the rear pulley that slowly contracts as rear wheel speed increase, thereby increasing the ratio between engine and wheel, making for more road speed. To conclude and simplify: lighter rollers increase the "constant engine speed", and heavier rollers decrease it. To get a direct interchange between rollers and sliders, go 1 gram higher on your sliders. The reason being is sliders do not need as much force to throw them out, so you do not loose 500-600 rpms like you would with every gram of rollers. Sliders expect around 300 rpm change verses 500-600 rpm changes with rollers. |
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veterans
by: rapidjim - Nov 12, 2015 15:08:54 GMT -6
Post by rapidjim on Nov 12, 2015 15:08:54 GMT -6
Your welcome!
It is very nice in this day and age that folks are actually thinking about us Vets and thanking us for our service. Not only on Veterans day, but all year long. I have folks in the shop all the time and when they see my Vet stickers, POW flag ect., they asked if I served and then Thank me. It does give one a warm feeling. As many older Vets, (like myself) know, this was not always true. During Vietnam and afterwards most did not use words of praise when talking to or about Veterans. When returning from overseas, we were spat on and called names like baby killers and worse. Back then, there were no Parades for returning Vets or folks lining up at the Airport to welcome us home. Now it is common place and that my friends means more to a Vet that any of you will ever know.
So I say, Thank You! for thinking about us and taking the time to show us you do care!!!!!!
Jim/ MSgt, USAF Retired
1971-1991
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Post by rapidjim on Oct 7, 2015 7:27:38 GMT -6
Jim - I remember your writing about this same topic - and I recalled that the tank slap (where did that name come from?) you referred too was normal. I do believe that mine was excessive -but I really do not know what is normal. I went out for a ride today - some slap at low speeds - but everything was rock solid at about 28 mph. I had it up to 60 mph for a very short time and it was solid. It seems to do best about 55 mph - but since it is new I did not want to hold it at that speed for very long. I found that the steering damper needed to be tightened. When I took a ride after that adjustment the ride was considerably better at low speeds. I can live with that - it was not excessive - something I just need to get used to.. Jim - thanks again for your insight and for the time you gave to respond. It helps to give me - and others with trikes - peace of mind. Glad to hear you got it taken care of. Since you are having these issues, I would suggest you take some time and double check all nuts and bolts to make sure that they are tight |
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Post by rapidjim on Oct 6, 2015 7:20:54 GMT -6
Let me set a couple things straight here concerning trikes. You have to understand that with 3 wheels instead of 4 there is going to be a bit of wobble or shimmy in the front wheel, this is called tank slap and it occurs on every conventional trike out there from Ice Bear, Honda, Harley and even the voyager trike kits. It is the nature of the beast. When Ice Bear first came out with the 300 trikes in 2010 it was really bad from zero to about 15/20 mph, then in late 2011 they added the steering damper that helped tremendously, Honda trikes had the same issue at 30 to 35MPH, most of that has been corrected. Also Ice Bear trikes are a great bit lighter than Hondas or Harleys and that adds to to the issue. Want a real scare and lots of tank slap, find an old Honda 3 wheeled ATV and go for a spin, and you will see why they were taken off the market.
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Post by rapidjim on Oct 3, 2015 7:22:17 GMT -6
Ordered a new Zodiac and picked it up Sat - 8/15. While it came with some problems IceBear is working to correct them. The first was a throttle problem - it would not work properly and I found that the dealer doing the PDI had left out a screw holding the fixture in place. Installed the missing screw and the throttle works just fine. The seat will not open using the switch key. I finally took the hold down bracket off and am using a bungee cord to hold the seat in place. Bummer! Again IceBear is working to correct the problem. Worse - there is a major vibration in the front end - the whole front end wobbles badly. It smooths out a little when the speed is about 25 mph - but I am afraid to ride it with this bad wobble. So - I have new Zodiac - a real beauty of a bike - but I cannot ride it. Hope IceBear comes with the solutions soon. John When I read this, I assumed that the machine was delivered to you by drop ship, I did not realize till after reading more posts, that you actually took delivery from a local Dealer who assembled it and PDIed it. Honestly, I have to question if they actually test drove the trike before delivering it to you. The issues you are having should not have been there. Every trike that I sell off my lot, has been completely gone through. The first thing that is done is that the rear tries are inspected and spun balanced before they are ever put on the trike for the first time. During spin balancing, you can see if there is an issue with the tire itself. When I sell a trike by drop shipping to my customer, one of the first things I tell them is to have the rear tires spun balanced. This way if there is an issue, I know to look at something else or in the case of a drop ship be able to tell my customer what to look for. I am also surprised that they did not adjust the seat latch or the shifter leakage. One other thing that I have seen, when you have a violent jerk going into reverse, sometimes this is that the idle is set to high, causing the CVT to be partially engaged. It may not be as noticeable in forward due that the reverse gearing is a higher ratio. Hope they got your issues fixed. |
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