Junior
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Post by dryshave on Feb 22, 2012 21:24:28 GMT -6
Wait until you see it with the fire extinguisher gas tank in the middle.... Thinking that I am going to have to go with an electric fuel pump as there is no gravity feed from there.
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Junior
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Post by dryshave on Feb 22, 2012 21:20:44 GMT -6
I realize that I have to rejig the brake pedal, but I didn't change anything on the steering column or in the engine compartment, I didn't want to have to re-invent the wheel as well. From the initial pic of the naked frame, to clay modelling it's been 7 weeks. The clay modelling will take the most time as I have to measure everything twice. I cut templates of the side I think is finished the best and overlay on the opposite side and measure then trim... eyeball. measure and trim. Takes a lot of time but the CNC quote I got was insane. I thought about using latex and then inverting the latex cast to create the opposite mold, but have decided that I can figure this out with enough time and plasticine.
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Junior
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Post by dryshave on Feb 22, 2012 20:08:04 GMT -6
jahunt- Know what you mean! I mounted the frame directly to the table before cutting was done. When I cut the main tube, the front and back pieces were still trued and I have a lap of 4" on the centre tube on each end. Will post new pics of the stretched part once I get the first negative cast done. I've got all the mounting points marked but will have to adjust when I get set to do the positive cast. Not all the pieces of the panel will be fiberglass, I'm not using chrome, but will be working with cast brass and copper for highlight rings around the front and rear turn signals as well as for the front grill.
Long time project, good thing for me as I generally am like a dog with a bone on projects. This gives me time to reflect on all aspects of access and maintenance before I strap it all down.
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Junior
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Post by dryshave on Feb 22, 2012 19:55:57 GMT -6
Thanks! I've got an old fashioned domed police light that I'm adding LED lights for a strobing brake light (not sure if legal here or not). The two "eyes" at the front are going to be the turn signals and the big mouth will be a serious custom grill.
Still working out the dash details and fabricating a new handlebar mount that will accept regular motorcycle handlebar. Headlight will be a mounted teardrop off of the handlebars.
Still thinking about how I'm going to handle the speedo and gauges.
Lots of fun!
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Junior
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Post by dryshave on Feb 22, 2012 18:23:18 GMT -6
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Junior
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Post by dryshave on Jan 16, 2012 11:59:07 GMT -6
WOOHOO! I swapped out the CDI unit with the parts bike, tested a strong spark. Installed the plug and pow! Instant ignition and throttle control!!! Thanks for walking me through my issues with this scoot. I will post video and pictures as I start the final assembly. Just need the seat recovered and I'm good as gold. Will tune it up as I move towards assembly, but after a couple of months with the carb, that was a purty sound I heard this morning. Thx
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Junior
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Post by dryshave on Jan 16, 2012 10:07:07 GMT -6
I had been getting good spark and I could get the bike running earlier in the rebuild, but I wasn't getting any throttle advance.
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Junior
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Post by dryshave on Jan 16, 2012 10:05:13 GMT -6
A small degree of success! I re-cleaned and rebuilt the carb again and this time when I cupped my hand over the intake, I could feel gas in the intake area.... still no ignition.
So I got suspicious and pulled the plug, this time it was drenched in gas... good sign for fuel, lousy sign for spark.
I grounded the plug.... and now NO SPARK! I test with the other coil (just in case) and all I was getting was a weak spark 4-5 times then nothing. Tested with both coils same result. I think this explains why I was only getting a quick pop.
I've tested the coil I'm getting consistent readings of .7 (allowable range is .16 - .20) (I'm testing at the lowest setting on my tester 200. Measuring at 2K, I'm getting readings of .001) as well I'm getting .7 from another coil I have on a parts scooter.
I'm a fool with a
Tested the pulse coil (exciter coil?) and that is testing well 136 ohms tolerance is 50-350 ohms.
Are both tested coils toast? I'm stymied and perplexed
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Junior
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Post by dryshave on Jan 15, 2012 16:18:27 GMT -6
Got a couple pops this time, but then nothing for a bit. After 5 minutes or so I tried it again... a couple quick pops, but it wouldn't grab.
Looks like a new carb is in order.
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Junior
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Post by dryshave on Jan 15, 2012 14:53:12 GMT -6
Is there a way to bench test the carb. Brace it, run fuel into it and blow air through the vacuum line to see if there is a throttle response from the tiny holes in the outflow?
This is the last time I throw this thing together... if it doesn't work now, I'm ordering a new carb.
The exhaust carb exhaust sleeve isn't broken, but the little baffles in the collar that slide over the throat are looking a little rough. I'm pretty sure I'm getting sufficient vacuum, will test it again.
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Junior
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Post by dryshave on Jan 15, 2012 13:03:01 GMT -6
I've had the engine apart, checked all tolerances, cleaned and honed. Double checked the timing and no issue there. I know the carb is getting gas and the float fills up properly, but it's clearly not getting any fuel through to fire.
I've cleaned the jets and soaked all components and air dried all parts and checking to the best of my ability all passages.
I've also sprayed quick fire into the cylinder and it still doesn't pop (used to before I started messing with the vacuum lines)
Vacuum lines appear to be correct and it is pulling gas from the tank properly (wasn't sure earlier as it was just about empty. Topped up the tank just in case there is a pressure issue.
It is getting spark when I pull the plug and check it.
I'm getting 4 ohms at the electric choke.
I've been working with two old carbs that were pretty gummed up when I got them. I've soaked all parts overnight in a carb cleaner and air cleaned them properly.
Does the air cut off valve have anything to do with the pressure required to move fuel in the carb?
Is it worth my time to order a complete carb kit and new jets? or just bite the bullet for a new carb.
Am I wasting my time by ordering a carb kit?
I've checked the vacuum pump diaphragm and it kinda looks like it's suffering from "bacon neck" ie: looking a little stretched out in the body.
It seals up well and when I run air through the front of the air intake, it pulls up like it should.
I've tested the float and it rides where it is supposed to.
Anyone got any tricks for this carb?
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