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Thanks for all your terrific words of support.

The colour scheme will be a candy dark red/brown with cast brass (and paint) details - minimal chrome.
Many of the detail pieces you don't see (dash gauges panel - signal light casing - detail strip running beside seat, as seen in earlier pics) in the final casting, are to be cast in brass, including the custom fuel tank (also modified since earlier pics - more on that later).
I'd like to paint the engine casings in a high heat brass color as well, but haven't done much research.

Madcollie - you can see a better detail the tail section on the first page. The tail end is more like the business end of a jet. I have an old domed style police light that fits into the middle, which I plan to wire up with LEDs for a brake light you can't miss.

Justbuggin2 - You are seeing a couple pieces of the master mold (images of the tail section). I would have finished the front casting yesterday, but ran out of resin - have to wait until tomorrow

I've been toying with the grillwork and will post a few sample ideas I've got going (photoshopped)

I'm taking the 250 engine in for an MRI Actually I'm just having the cylinder honed and having the honda tech, check the tolerance between the crankshaft and piston rod (I think this one's a little slappy).
The goal once the casts are complete are to layout the wiring harness.
then finish up the frame welds and strip the frame for powdercoating.

..... still have to figure out how to build rad access through the front panel.

Close to 300 hours of modelling and casting so far.
I've been logging everything on video and keeping track of material costs as well. I'll post more images when I'm ready to start the positive casts.
There will be plenty of bodywork to be completed on the final casts, but my goal was to get it perfectly matched on each side. Countless hours of measurements and custom templates made.

Cheersh.
If your not having fun, stay out of the garage

Forgot to mention the exhaust and airbox are also available. Both are in pretty good shape

Pulled the castings off yesterday... Lesson to be learned about how much release to use. There is never such a thing as too much. One side I used 4 coats, the other side I used 6. The side I used 6 on came off a little cleaner, but the other side requires a lot more clean up.
The beauty of using plasticine is that I can just smooth the residue back in to fill the scratches and gaps left from a few air pockets I missed.
Pretty happy about the results so far.
I also turned my brother loose on the 250 tear down, while I worked on removing the mold.
Lots done so far.
I will post pics of the split casings over the next couple of days along with photos of the progress to date.
I plan to start casting the front over the next weekend, still some tweeking to do.

Rear panel has been fiberglassed... finally! Ready to remove it from the frame and then it's on to finishing the front. Still doing some tinkering, but the front cowl from the CH250 I just picked up gave me an idea to finish the area around the front wheel, will be working on that later.
In between the hardening cycles, I've got to haul the 250 engine out for the once/twice over. No spark, so I'll test all the usual suspects tonite.
More pictures soon... I'm rethinking the gas tank position now that I've seen the battery and tank position on the 250... would be pretty easy to switch over... more on that when I finally get the tank off.

Have pretty much finished off the rough out on the front and tail pieces. A contour gauge replaces the CNC machine, that and many hours of checking and double checking each side for alignment.

I'm pretty happy about the result so far and hope to be able to latex cast the highlight pieces (such as turn signal "eyes" and rear signal light pods) some time this weekend.
Once they are cast I will cut the "cast" pieces out of the plasticine mold and build up the mounting tabs.
I have tried this before, rather than using plaster in the mold. I put the plasticine in a glass bowl and place the bowl directly on the oil heater in the shop and 20 minutes later.... pour liquid plasticine.
After it cools, it's still workable... in case there are any final adjustments to be made with the final fiberglass cast of the panel.
Kind of hard to explain, more pictures in a week or so hopefully will help to explain.
The yellow "eye" shows you where the turn signal lights are going. I plan to vacuum mold those pieces along with the tail lights.

additional dash details:
I'm pretty happy on the new look, still lots of hours of shaping left, but I anticipate getting on to blocking for fiberglass within the next three weeks.