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Good point you got there. I too left for the same reasons. And your right JR is a pretty straight forward guy, and lets you know whats up. Thats why I am still here. I did have a little friction with a member here who came from scootdawg waving a billboard sign in my tread disrespecting me. But for now all is cool, and have not had any issues with the character ever since. I have been in the scooter business for many years, ran a shop for 12 years. Now I am on the internet for 7.

I welcome you and any new forum member who wishes to gain knowledge. I have been around for a while, but I can not say I know it all. What I can say, is that I am here to help those who know less than I do. And learn from those who know more that I do. It works both ways.

Thanks for being a part of our forum yoster. Please stay for a while.

I have a few articles I have put together that can be found on my website. I believe that information is the key to solving issues before they turn into problems. I am sure you can relate to that.

I am sure many of you have ran into a situation of a broken bolt, Right? Especially the bolt that goes on the block to connect the muffler header pipe on your scooter. From time to time we must make threads. Threads in holes. Threads on shafts. Threads extended on bolts. Sometimes too, we must clean up damaged threads. To do all this we have what are called tape and dies. A Tap will cut threads in a hole. A Die will cut threads in a shaft. Taps and Dies come in a lot of sizes and thread types. You will need a full set of both Metric and Standard Taps and Dies.

Many times it's a good idea to clean up threads that are rusty or damaged. If you don't know what thread size, you will need to use a Thread Gauge. A thread gauge is a template of the thread size. Each thread size has a separate thread gauge. You just keep trying different gauges till one fits the threads and then read the size off the gauge. Once you know what the thread size is, simply pick the right diameter Tap or Die and run them into the hole or over the bolt. This will make assembly much easier. The only problem is this. If the bolt or nut was over torqued, the threads may be distorted. When you re-cut them you remove a bit of the thread, making it weaker. There's not much you can do about this short of replacing the nut, bolt, or part.

You can also clean up male threads with a Thread File. You can also use a small triangular file. Threads can also be damaged by the screw end of a gear puller as you pull off a gear or by hammering on a threaded shaft, like an axle. If you must hammer a threaded end of a shaft put the nut back on and screw it down flush with the end of the shaft. This will protect the threads.

If you have stripped out female threads sometimes you can go to the next biggest tap and retap the threads and use a slightly bigger bolt. An example would be those little 6mm bolts that hold so many different cylinder head covers and side covers on. They always seem to strip out. If you retap the stripped out hole with a 1/4-20 tap and use a 1/4-20 bolt, it will usually hold just fine. The only other way to fix stripped threads is to drill out the hole much bigger and install a new set of steel threads. There are lots of different Thread Repair kits out on the market for this. They all have advantages and disadvantages. If they are put into aluminum, the threads will be stronger then the aluminum threads they replace, but they tend to back out. Also, there must be enough metal around the old, stripped out threads to support the new steel threads. Many times there just isn't enough aluminum to support the new threads.

You can add more threads to a threaded bolt if needed but it is usually a better idea to go buy a bolt with the extra threads already rolled on. This is because they are stronger and if you have to add more then 1/2" or so of thread the die tends to cut off center. This means one side of the bolt has deeper cut threads then the other... not good !

This topic is a little more extensive, but you can continue reading it in my how to fix it section of the website: bit.ly/yopCLK

Thanks, hope this will be useful to someone. I'm sure it will.

Scooter Voltage Stabilizers

If ever there was ever a mysterious area of vehicle functionality, it's a scooter's electrical system. Scooter clutch, variator, CVT belts, even changing scooter brake pads are easy to understand because we can feel, observe, and visualize what's going on. Big Bore kits and carburetor implementation; we know that more displacement equals the combustion of more air and fuel for more power. Lowering your scooter level means; less body roll and a lower center of gravity bring better handling. Racing brake rotors mean more surface area to distribute heat and less brake fade. Pre-ignition alongside elevated exhaust gas temperatures? Add more fuel. Simple.

But this is not the case in the world of electronics, where everything happens at the speed of light, by subatomic particles that announce their presence only when shorting things out, or wires catching on fire. Or aftermarket products promising to do wonders for your scooter electrical system. After all, if you can't tell how well something is working, you can't say for sure whether product actually makes a difference on your scooter performance. But that's why we're here. We learn from each others mistakes. Scooters have been around for a while, I'm quite sure you know that. But what you don't know is that scooter aftermarket parts continue to be in development. So the question still stands; Can a voltage stabilizer increase power and torque?

Well, we read so much on the topic. I know for a fact that every high-tech motorcycle and high-end scooter companies that are building aftermarket racing parts seem to be manufacturing voltage stabilizers. But no one really explains how they work, just that installing them will make your motorcycle, or high scooter (not to mention ATV) perform better. But everyone online seem to talk about them as they don't know. Do they work? How do they work? And are they worth their price?

Voltage Stabilizers Installed On Racing Motorcycles and High End Scooters. A few weeks ago, I read four articles of the market's most popular Japanese racing motorcycle/ high-end scooter voltage stabilizers were put to the test. But wait, let us first take a moment to understand not be confused with grounding systems that supplement a motorcycles battery and frame grounds. Voltage stabilizers-sometimes called "condensers"-attach directly to a motorcycle battery at the positive and negative terminals, and purport to regulate the flow of electricity running from a motorcycle battery to its electrical components, smoothing idle, improving output from headlights, HID Lights, LED Lights and audio equipment (if any), increasing battery life, and improving combustion efficiency for increased power/torque and decreased emissions.

The first thing to remember is that some performance batteries act like a big voltage stabilizer already. Electricity generated from the stator is sent to the battery and electrical devices as needed. During periods of low electrical draw (headlights, audio, for example), excess electricity generated by the alternator charges the battery rather than passing through the system. But when the demand of a racing motorcycle or high-end scooter electrical system outweighs what the stator (or alternator) can generate (during low idle, and/or high electrical draw, for example), electricity is discharged from the battery in the amounts needed to pick up the slack. The problem is that a traditional lead-acid battery can't switch from charge to discharge rapidly enough to quell small-scale voltage fluctuations or electrical "noise" that can adversely affect a motorcycle or high-end scooter electrical components. There are only a few advanced (expensive) batteries that can do a near-perfect job of stabilizing rouge current, but in any event-say the makers of voltage stabilizer kits-there's a lot to be gained by adding an aftermarket system of capacitors to the mix.

Are you convinced now? I sure am. I believe that a volt stabilizer can work and help improve performance on your motorcycle or scooter. If it works for cars, it should work for scooters.

Scooter Voltage Stabilizer come in varies sizes, and don't come cheap. They are made by different manufactures in China, Taiwan, or Japan. The Scooter Voltage Stabilizer you are looking at is made in Taiwan (excellent quality). This Scooter High Performance Voltage Stabilizers can also be used for ATV's, Water Craft, and Snow Mobiles, and Racing Lawn Mowers.

Get details on the product and how you can purchase it. Remember ScooterProfessor Forum Members get a 20% discount on this unit: thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=specials&thread=931

What is the Maximum safe temperature for motor oil:
If you have concerns just drop an oil temp gauge to monitor the actual temps that it reaches. All I can tell you is that the maximum safe temperature for motor oil is 300F, but even at 250F mineral oil will start to degrade and require more frequent changes.

Recommend Synthetic Oil for scooters:
These 150cc scooters engine take a heavy beating. Especially if your heavy rider weighting 250 pounds or more. And when you upgrade it to a big bore engine, the oil will degrade even more. These babies get super hot because of poor ventilation system. If the oil temp does turn out to be too high, the cheapest fix is to start using synthetic oil or make an investment and add an oil cooler. I always recommend synthetic oil to all the scooter riders who ask me. This alone will bring the temp down significantly while being able to safely withstand higher temps. An even better solution, of course, is to fit an oil cooler.

Scooter Oil Change:
Always check your valve gaps......every 500-750 miles. And change your engine regularly every 500 miles.

Ideal Scooter Oil Temperature:
The ideal operating temperature varies somewhat between scooter models, but and oil temp of 91 ºC = 195.8 ºF or 105 ºC = 221 ºF is pretty normal. And then again it sometimes depend how hard and how long you ride.

.metric-conversions.org/temperature/celsius-to-fahrenheit.htm" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.metric-conversions.org/temperature/celsius-to-fahrenheit.htm

Cool, I see Jims point. It's a different situation but rather similar to one I ran into last week JR. I caught the same member that apologized to me in public last week post that same trash on this negative forum Jims talking about. It's not a coincidence JR. He's been talking trash since last year Sept 2011. Ask Jim, he'll tell ya. When any forum member is willing to take a turn on the wrong road to make an easy buck just by talking or downgrading you. He'll talk about anybody just to make an easy buck on PM. He not only hurts the relationship with the forum members, but also to himself. People will eventually see on the long run who he is 'a maud'.

Keep it simple Hulk24, these digital speedometers ten to mess up. We run into misty weather up in the states (Indiana) and the moisture screws them up. Thats why I dont purchase them any longer. No need to go to another forum Hulk24, your family, just ask one of us. We'll help you find them here.
Keep it here within the family.