Junior
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Post by steve on Nov 16, 2013 11:28:23 GMT -6
I did the spacer mod to correct wheel wobble, but both wheels still wobble. While I had her in the air, I rotated each wheel slowly. For 1/ 2 revolution, the chain goes tight and for the rest of the turn, the chain goes very loose. Tried it with both wheels with the same results. Also, sometimes when I launch, the rear wheels catch and chatter very badly. I also hear "grinding" noise from the back when I ride.
I checked the drive sprocket and gear. Neither is bent or loose.. Checked chain alignment and it's OK. I'm thinking the wobble and the chain issue might be inside the differential? I checked the outer bearings when I did the spacer mod. Both seemed OK. It almost acts like maybe there is an inner bearing on the differential end that might be bad and allowing both axles to move? What part other than the drive shaft and gear is common to both axles? This thing has less than 200 miles on it. HELP.
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Post by steve on Nov 14, 2013 7:25:56 GMT -6
One quick idea that could be used on most trikes and scooters with the fork tube tops exposed is shown in the photo. Notice the tube caps? That is a photo that I edited and printed on plain paper. I cut it out, glued it to a one inch stainless fender washer, and coated it with several layers of spray clear coat. Mine are mounted with magnets but you could use double stick tape if you like. Attachments:
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Post by steve on Nov 13, 2013 11:23:41 GMT -6
As to the fender screws, they are pretty sorry! When the weather gets a little better, I'll pick up some epoxy spray pain and paint them.
One quick idea that could be used on most trikes and scooters with the fork tube tops exposed is shown in the photo with the tank bib. Notice the tube caps? That is a photo that I edited and printed on plain paper. I cut it out, glued it to a one inch stainless fender washer, and coated it with several layers of spray clear coat. Mine are mounted with magnets but you could use double stick tape if you like.
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Junior
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Post by steve on Nov 13, 2013 11:15:17 GMT -6
Thanks. I looked at and wanted the Road Warrior, but price and the size made me pass. If Ice Bear made a 150cc version with CVT in the $2K price range, I bet they would sell a bunch.
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Junior
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Post by steve on Nov 13, 2013 7:09:23 GMT -6
I don't see much posted on the Viking. It's a little ATV/ugly, but I don't want to deal with all the panels, (Here is the part where I hurt some feelings.), and the units with all the body panels look like Happy Meal toys to me.
I have 2 storage locations that hold massive amounts. I'll post pictures soon, but I mounted a painters roller grid on the floor rack and a really nice cooler on that. I can use the openings in the grid to bungee things down and I also have a nice sissy bar bag mounted on back. As for the Ape hangers, the stock bars sat so low that I couldn't even make a turn without hitting my knees. These are a little higher than I wanted, but you know, one wrong key and it's marked as "shipped." It is quite easy to rotate the angle of the bars to a better position. Main issue is finding brake hoses and throttle cables.
Paint sux, but there is a limit to spending on toys and the paint job I designed would be over $1k.
I have also done the standard performance upgrades.
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Post by steve on Nov 12, 2013 16:27:33 GMT -6
These are old pics. I've made several changes since they were taken. It is a sissy bar. The gas tank is a 2.2 gal "peanut tank" for a early Sportster. I used al plate from home depot to fab the front mount and threadsall for the rear. I pulled the electric pod and put the battery and all the electrics in a small marine battery box where the old gas tank was. I installed a push button 15A circuit breaker in the battery box and ran a charger jack out also. I do not have to pull the floor plate except for messing with the CDI. The only thing not in the new box is the VR because it gets quite warm and needs the frame to help as a heatsink. I now have a gravity fed fuel system with 1/4 inch lines running via a pitcock and hi flow fuel filter straight to Scrappy Dawgs 30mm carb. No fuel pump. No vacuum lines. It took a very long time to re wire the bike, but there are no longer any connectors. It's all hardwired. I also removed the headlight and replaced it with a chrome motorcycle headlight. The front fender is a replacement fender for a mini bike. I would like to send a larger photo, but this forum does not allow large photo files, and I do not use cloud storage. I'll try to take more detailed photos with lower resolution when this cold front passes through. I guess the important point of all of this is that it was done in a parking lot with only a dremmel tool, a cordless drill, a soldering iron, basic hand tools. Read more: thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/thread/3107/rear-wheel-wobble?page=3#ixzz2kUO7YIVC |
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Post by steve on Nov 12, 2013 16:12:47 GMT -6
It is a sissy bar. The gas tank is a 2.2 gal "peanut tank" for a early Sportster. I used al plate from home depot to fab the front mount and threadsall for the rear. I pulled the electric pod and put the battery and all the electrics in a small marine battery box where the old gas tank was. I installed a push button 15A circuit breaker in the battery box and ran a charger jack out also. I do not have to pull the floor plate except for messing with the CDI. The only thing not in the new box is the VR because it gets quite warm and needs the frame to help as a heatsink. I now have a gravity fed fuel system with 1/4 inch lines running via a pitcock and hi flow fuel filter straight to Scrappy Dawgs 30mm carb. No fuel pump. No vacuum lines. It took a very long time to re wire the bike, but there are no longer any connectors. It's all hardwired. I also removed the headlight and replaced it with a chrome motorcycle headlight. The front fender is a replacement fender for a mini bike. I would like to send a larger photo, but this forum does not allow large photo files, and I do not use cloud storage. I'll try to take more detailed photos with lower resolution when this cold front passes through.
I guess the important point of all of this is that it was done in a parking lot with only a dremmel tool, a cordless drill, a soldering iron, basic hand tools.
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Post by steve on Nov 10, 2013 18:28:56 GMT -6
Thanks, Alley. It looks like they just get it close and then add washers, where needed. Rather than the axle mod they did, they could have also tapered the hub to match the axle? Guess their mod is a little cheaper. They have a ways to go, but they have sure come a long way in 3-4 years. I'm expecting to see EFI, better materials, and much improved processes and quality control in the next few years. Finishes - especially chrome have a long way to go! Those who expect to see Honda or Harley quality and service at Chinese prices will continue to be disapointed.  |
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Post by steve on Nov 10, 2013 12:22:29 GMT -6
 Mine looked like yours when I bought it. I am making a few changes. |
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Post by steve on Nov 10, 2013 4:35:12 GMT -6
My Viking has a grease fiting in that center hub location. Yours appears to be missing?
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Post by steve on Nov 10, 2013 4:33:03 GMT -6
So I tried to do the mod on the other axle. I could not get the spacer in and still install the C-clip. I put her back together, but when I tried to install the castle nut, I had to leave a washer out. The total thickness of the 2 washers under the castle nut was close to 1/4 inch. It would seem that when I tapped the axle, I moved it in almost 1/8 inch. Alley, I'm a little lost here. My hub shaft is maybe 3 to 4 inches long and splined the full length. My axle is splined about that much also. The basic question is. Does the taper of the axle only allow a short length of full hub contact? And more importantly, why did I have to pull a castle nut washer?
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Post by steve on Nov 9, 2013 7:58:31 GMT -6
Nut was against the washer, but I was able to remove it without tools and re-use the hole in the axle when I re-installed. it. Smacked the axle with a hammer but got no movement. By the time I got that C-clip out, I was ready to hit something with a hammer! Supposed to be 72 here in TX today, so I'll install the other spacer and recheck the first one. Thanks for your help. On a different subject, I've seen no posts from Rapidjim for a while?
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Post by steve on Nov 8, 2013 17:32:30 GMT -6
I got one spacer installed before the rain/cold hit, but that install brings up another question. I installed a 1/16 thick spacer, but could not get the C-clip on and had to take it down about .060. That seems to indicate that the axle wasn't moving? I will install the other this week-end and see how much slop I have. 1/16 play can cause that?
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Post by steve on Nov 2, 2013 7:13:18 GMT -6
I have the same carb on my Viking with the same issue. I think I can get away with it in TX, so in the near future I will add a switch to the enricher circuit and turn it off. These are "pumper" carbs so I think I can just twist the throttle a couple times and hit the starter. I don't have much winter to deal with so I can start mine every few days if we get a cold spell.
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Post by steve on Oct 31, 2013 5:23:21 GMT -6
I'm new at this, so it might not be all that new, but I'll share this anyway.
I installed apehanger handlebars on my Viking and needed longer brake lines so the system sat empty but sealed for almost 3 months while I tried to hunt down new lines. Maybe that time lag was my problem, but I could not get either brake to pump up after the install. I was sure that I had an air lock some where. My solution was to grab up one of those big "ol massagers that a lot of women are fond of . I set it for hi speed and held it on the bottom of the line next to the calipher while I pumped the handle. This is with the bleeder valve closed. Didn't take long for the air to start bubbling out of the master cylinder and there was no mess to clean up after. Works on the same idea of those giant vibrators that I used to settle concrete into the form as a kid. I now have a cordless Hitachi massager in my tool box..
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