Junior
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Post by steve on Nov 19, 2013 22:57:00 GMT -6
Had the same thought. Rebuilding mine is not an option, as I am not permitted do that sort of thing here but it would be impossible to leave it in pieces in the parking lot. I live in one room and have no way to tear one down and store parts while I wait for parts to come in. Bet they wouldn't have the parts anyway. Haven't got a price/shipping quote yet either.
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Junior
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Post by steve on Nov 19, 2013 17:56:14 GMT -6
I heard from Rapid Jim. There may not be one in stock. If so, they'll have to build me one. I don't mind the wait cause this will ensure that I get the most current version. This should provide a little comfort to ya'll 'cause that shows the my issue is a fluke and they are not shipping many of them.
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Junior
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Post by steve on Nov 19, 2013 8:26:27 GMT -6
Can't tell you about longivity. Mine has less than 200 miles. I will say that if you think of the Chinese trikes/scooters as just transportation, you will probably be dissapointed. They are more like cars of the late 50's early 60's where part of the Saturday routine was to work on the car. You will need basic metric hand tools, and a certain amount of mech skills. Info and help comes from this forum and others like it. As for axle repair, I would bet these axles come from someones ATV, so an ATV dealer/repair shop might be a good place to look if you're not inclined or unable to do the work yourself.
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Junior
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Post by steve on Nov 19, 2013 0:01:05 GMT -6
I can and will try to get it tomorrow, but I have seen the folder and I think you already have that axle. It's solid with the rotor in the center and the bracket at the back where the hitch mounts. 4 mounting brackets and dual shocks on the swing arm. this is a rear view of the trike. If you don't have that axle already, let me know?
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Junior
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Post by steve on Nov 18, 2013 17:49:19 GMT -6
Good idea on the chain. I always lose the master link. Should I back pff the 2 bolts that serve as "adjusters" before I reassemble?
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Junior
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Post by steve on Nov 18, 2013 16:06:53 GMT -6
Got an email saying he would check. I really would like it to be shipped to him to check what version it is and put in the correct grease fitting, and any mod needed, but I know the additional shipping would make it plumb crazy. I will post info on price and try to post pictures on the swap. The parts diagram shows the hubs as part of the assy, but I don't think I need those. It looks like all I have to do is remove the fenders, break the chain, pull the caliper, and yank her off. I'll want to measure from the shock eye to the opposite axle mount bolt before I start so I'll have a reference point for the re-install also. Can you think of anything else? I'm so glad I don't have to mess with panels. It's a Chinese clone of a Japanese scooter with Taiwanese tires and American cruiser styling. I think that makes me a Genetic engineer!
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Junior
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Post by steve on Nov 18, 2013 10:47:35 GMT -6
I would agree that service will always be an issue where there are no brick and mortar dealers, but I will take full responsibility for my situation, because I've purchased several scooters and a trike on line, and I fully understand that I become my own dealer/service shop when purchase a unit.. That is part of the deal. I would like to see the Chinese manufactures to set minimum standards for their on-line retailers, though. Even EBay has standards that sellers have to meet.
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Junior
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Post by steve on Nov 17, 2013 16:01:49 GMT -6
The email has already been sent. Mine is a 2012. The issue will be to ensure that Ice Bear sends a 2012 axle with the latest upgrades and not something they have setting on a shelf in China. I know Rapid Jim has no control over that and I have no way of verifying. It would suck to have spent all that money for a new trike and then have to install an early model axle with known design flaws. Just one of the things to take into account when buying off shore, I suppose. It's not just China, though. I had a new Valkyrie with less than 300 miles twist off a cam gear at 80 mph and lock up the motor. Not fun! The difference with the Honda was that the dealer came and picked up the bike and installed a new motor. I'll have to wait for Jim's quote before I decide whether to throw more money down this hole. Thanks for your help, Alley.
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Junior
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Post by steve on Nov 17, 2013 14:39:58 GMT -6
I suppose the good news is that it looks like a fairly easy job. Also, everything on her will have been modified except the rear tires, suspension, block, clutch, and tail light. Now, as long as I have to change anyway, I wonder if there is a better axle that would bolt on to the Viking? Or, maybe trade her for a scooter? They say there is always room for improvement.
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Junior
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Post by steve on Nov 17, 2013 8:21:35 GMT -6
It's the axle/diff ! ! Put both wheels in the air this AM. The wheels do not move in and out in the horizontal axis. They "tilt" in and out on the vertical axis. Applied power and the noise from the differential was horrible. Sounded like rocks in a clothes dryer. Also, it was bad enough that the axle stayed solid on the jackstands but the whole trike rocked from side to side on the supension. It has to be the inner bearings on the axle, but I'm sure the pinion gears and inner axle shaft are trashed by now also. I've heard that noise and felt the slight rocking since I bought it, but this is my first trike, so I had no baseline for comparison. This has to be a factory defect, but you know Ice Bears new warranty policy says that there is no warranty if you don't pay a shop to do PDI, so there ya go. I'm doomed! Rapid Jim, you're the only reliable Ice Bear dealer in the country. Is there any hope for me or do I have to let strangers touch me for a nickle till I save enough for a new axle assy?
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Junior
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Post by steve on Nov 17, 2013 0:32:40 GMT -6
Tomorrow, I'll get her up in the air and watch both of those sprockets under power. I agree that one or the other is off center, out of round or moving on bearings that aren't right. just a SWAG, but I bet an axle assy is at least as much as a a new motor.
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Junior
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Post by steve on Nov 16, 2013 23:06:51 GMT -6
It was easy, Alley. I bet you have close to that in your BBK, tall tires, and other mods? After all, these are hobby as much as transportation. A partial list follows. Fuel tank, handlebars, brake and throttle cables, sissy bar, sissy bar bag, headlight, 30mm carb, cdi, plug, hi flow filter, 1/4 fuel lines, luggage rack, cable covers, grips, foot pegs, mirrors, tank decals, trail tech speedo/computer, new front tire, gps and mount, under tank storeage/cooler, hardware, 115mm variator, tools. Replace rear fender from a drunk hit and run. Probably some other stuff that I've forgotten and some that I bought twice cause it didn't fit. This was to be my retirement vehicle and the total was still less than a whooptie car would have been. With luck, I'll find some rat hole on a lake lot and be able to make the final fix on the trike a retirement project so all is not lost. Don't get the wrong idea about the rat hole. Want to find a cheap lot in East Texas with a raggedy old mobile home or something and fix it up. That will be a retirement project also. Made good money in electronics for years but spent it all. We all run out of "somedays" way sooner than we expect.
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Junior
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Post by steve on Nov 16, 2013 19:58:43 GMT -6
I live at an extended stay place and work there as staff. This is something that I will not be able to do on the property so I'll have to pay some one. I live on S/S and min wage + a room. Might just have to cut my losses and do Craigs list. Damn shame. $2.4K purchase,TTL. Another $1500 in mods (voids warranty). 200 miles. How much per mile? Oh well, stuff happens. I was walking before I got this. Still remember how!
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Post by steve on Nov 16, 2013 18:24:52 GMT -6
Thanks for the input, Alley. I will check all of that as soon as I can.
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Junior
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Post by steve on Nov 16, 2013 15:59:49 GMT -6
This is a Viking with no reverse. This happens with the wheel off the ground. Tried each wheel with the same results. The tension on the chain does not effect the wheel wobble. Actually the chain gets loose or tight top and bottom. There is a spot in the rotation , of course, where it is correct. That is, tight on top with about a half inch of play on the bottom. Tomorrow I'll try to get both wheels in the air and watch the drive sprocket and shaft as they rotate under power. I'll also get photos of the chain both loose and tight. Guessing also that maybe the outer bearing plate for the drive sprocket could be bent or out of alignment?
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