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Post by steve on Oct 4, 2013 14:12:43 GMT -6
Have the same set-up issue with my speedo. Read all kinds of crazy numbers and then quit at abouit 20mph. Mine came with digital and when I looked, I found it had 4 mags in the roter. Computer wasn't set up for that or fast enough to read it. I had to get a mag and mount it on the rim on the other side of the wheel. Very pleased with the useful info from the Trail-Tech.
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Junior
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Post by steve on Oct 4, 2013 8:15:51 GMT -6
I installed the Trail Tech Vapor on my Viking. They told me set it for 2. That works for me. You usually can tell by listening if the tach is reading some multiple of what's real. Mine read about 2.4k when I knew that was to high. Set it for 2 per tech suport.
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Junior
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Post by steve on Sept 23, 2013 19:15:24 GMT -6
Thanks! Think I found the windshield. I'll check there for the brake lever.
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Junior
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Post by steve on Sept 23, 2013 17:07:46 GMT -6
Jerk hit my parked 2012 Jonway YY250T and ran. Left it laying on her side after spinning it 180 and dropping it on my Ice Bear Viking trike. The problem now is finding a new wind shield and left brake lever for the YY250T. Purchased from Superior Powersports. Not much of a dealer. Sent them an email requesting a quote for the parts, but no answer. Does anyone know where I can order these parts?
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Junior
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Post by steve on Sept 19, 2013 11:03:52 GMT -6
I wasn't impressed with the trunk that came with my YY250T scooter and did a search for scooter trunks. These things seem to be generic so maybe you can find someone selling your trunk and work from there?
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Junior
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Post by steve on Sept 17, 2013 13:38:22 GMT -6
Thanks!
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Junior
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Post by steve on Sept 17, 2013 10:23:19 GMT -6
On the exhaust pipe between the manifold and muffler, is a tap that has a hose running to a canister. This is on an Ice Bear Viking with gy6 157qmj engine. It seems to be drawing air into the exhaust system. What is the purpose of this? I can only guess that it is for EPA testing. How will removing or capping the hose and canister effect my motor's operation?
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Junior
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Post by steve on Sept 2, 2013 19:18:51 GMT -6
EFI: Ecotrons.com has one for $500 bucks. Way to much money!
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Junior
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Post by steve on Sept 2, 2013 18:10:43 GMT -6
[replyingto=alleyoop]alleyoop[/replyingto]Think I saw an add on some where, but I bet it's a job to set up. Think the fuel pump draws a bunch of current.
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Junior
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Post by steve on Sept 2, 2013 8:02:28 GMT -6
[replyingto=ellpee]ellpee[/replyingto]We are all so spoiled by EFI. I would sure like to se that as the "next big thing."
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Post by steve on Aug 5, 2013 7:06:51 GMT -6
[replyingto=steve]steve[/replyingto]Can you spell dumb ass? The input to the air box points straight up. We had a heavy rain and the box filled with water so I pulled the box, drained the water, and dried the filter. To keep this from happening again, I installed a 1" OD pvc t in the opening. This must have restricted the air flow, because this AM, I puled the T and she runs great! The T cost me about 1/2" in diameter, plus the air had to make a 90 deg turn to get into the box. I have a KN filter coming that should solve the rain issue.
I thank you so much for all the effort you put into this and am so sorry for wasting your time. I have done a little customer service and I know that this method of T/S can be very difficult but it's impossible if the equipment has been modified. Again, thank-you.
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Post by steve on Aug 4, 2013 21:57:26 GMT -6
[replyingto=alleyoop]alleyoop[/replyingto]Will do that for sure Tuesday. I have an impact wrench coming Tuesday evening. I might just pull the variator and belt to isolate the engine from the drive train?
MODIFIED: Got up early this AM and tried your suggestion. A slight back off on the gas and she smooths right out. and runs back up to 4600 where she is done. She will not accept full throttle from idle. I did the fuel air adj again. Did counter clockwise till she slowed and ran rough, then cw. backed her off from there till she smoothed out and idle was max. Re-ran your test with the same results. I will note that air/fuel sensitivity is not very good. I can get a full turn either way without much change in idle speed. Not good for long term, but it's easy to pull the air box. Maybe repeat with the air box gone and see what happens?
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Post by steve on Aug 4, 2013 20:41:36 GMT -6
[replyingto=alleyoop]alleyoop[/replyingto]Twist the throttle, and she runs good up to about 4.0k. which is launch plus about 700-800. Then she starts missing and back fire. Not exactly back fire or pop. Can't exactly describe the sound cause I've never heard and engine make that sound. Major loss of power till I back off and then she settles back in and runs smooth again. No issues with de-cel at all. The way to stop the misfire and loss of power is to back off on the throttle and twist her back on a little. She will then sneak up to the 4.6-4.9k. Vikings have the digital instrument package so it might be fairly accurate with the tach reading. She just won't run over 4.6k-4.7K In terms of speed, if I start out slowly, I can ease throttle out to about 14mph, back off a little and then bring her up slowly to about the 4.2K and as the variator slowly catches up she is OK to about 18-24mph/4.6K where she is all done. I did change engine and drive oil before I ever started her up. She may have had this problem from the get-go as all the miles I put on her were in the parking lot at a max of 15mph. Took about a month for the vendor to get me my MSO so I drove her around the parking lot looking for things to drop off and to stretch the chain a little. No chatter or lurch on launch, though.
Can't put her on the center stand cause she is a 150-8 Viking trike. I don't have a jack or stands to get the back in the air. Got a couple of guys to hold her up when I installed the wheels. Would love to get her in the air with no load and see how she acts. I am on call til Tuesday evening, so if the mech doesn't pick her up first, I will pick up a couple of jack stands. Trikers should have them as part of their tool kit maybe. I have the 115 mm variator with 12 gram sliders from Scrappy to install, but I don't plan on that until I figure this out.
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Junior
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Post by steve on Aug 4, 2013 18:23:06 GMT -6
So, factory CDI/Coil back in. Got about 600 more rpm at idle by doing the air/fuel adj. Still seeing only 4.7 to 4.9k rpm. Sounds like it's backfiring a little when the dropout starts? Still have to ease her up to the 4.7k mark. I did not mention that after she quit, I did try several CDI/Coil and 3 different plugs along with the new fuel filter. Gas is no longer orange. Getting 20vac at the coil input when I pull that wire and crank the engine. Maybe a drop out at the stator/pickup? As I said, this is a brand new trike and Ice Bear seems to have a very good rep so I have been avoiding those issues as low percentage. What would make the gas turn orange? I'm the security guy here and this started after I tossed a drug dealer, but I have a locking gas cap. Oh well, the mech is looking for 450 that he won't see till this problem is resolved. And thanks for your help!
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Post by steve on Aug 4, 2013 16:59:05 GMT -6
I install the cdi/coil as part of my pdi. Do it for reliabilty. I have actually tried the swap back to the original configuration with the same issue still there. I do thank-you for your help, Alley and will go back to the carb early AM before this TX sun gets to hot. I am learning as fast as I can, but right now, I'm that guy with one Karate lesson. I know just enough to get my butt whipped.
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