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Post by cruiser on May 14, 2013 11:50:42 GMT -6
NONE, I do not drive at night  Alleyoop I don't drive at night either. However, my state does require a working license plate light as part of the safety inspection. I use a standard 1 watt LED T10 style bulb. |
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Post by cruiser on May 12, 2013 19:53:08 GMT -6
That's what I was thinking in my earlier post. Takes the place of the headlight switch and turns on the headlights automatically when the engine starts. Just was waiting for verification from the OP.
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Post by cruiser on May 12, 2013 18:51:48 GMT -6
A foot of water in the yard? Was that from rain? Hopefully the scoot wasn't outside during the rain.
Brake switches are NO (normally open). It sounds like at least one of the brake switches is stuck in the on (closed) position which is what happens when you squeeze the brake lever. You might want to try squeezing each brake handle and spray a little WD40 in the handle hinge area where the brake switches live. Try tapping in that area with a small tool to see if it loosens the switch.
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Post by cruiser on May 12, 2013 18:33:09 GMT -6
My father once owned a 1946 Studebaker with a flat head six, three speed column shifter, with overdrive. It was build like a tank. His next car was a 1953 Landcruiser which is what the 1955 model is based on. It had a OHV V8 which was very smooth and quiet. A real nice looking car. One reason these models went so fast is the streamlined body which was used by many Bonneville speeders. The 1955 model also had a high performance option with a 4 barrel carb and dual exhausts. Here's what the 1953 looked like: nozama.typepad.com/.a/6a00e54ed05fc288330120a8bb2fb7970b-800wi |
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Post by cruiser on May 12, 2013 17:25:46 GMT -6
Now that we know it's a controller or relay, what does it control?  |
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Post by cruiser on May 10, 2013 18:02:58 GMT -6
The warm wires and the voltage measurements you noted are normal. Shrink wrap should be OK as long as the connections do not get overheated. If they overheat, then no connectors or normal forms of insulation will work. The secret is to prevent overheating in the first place. Crimps are the weak points in electrical connections. Most people will also solder the crimp so that thermal expansion and vibrations will not degrade the connection. Make sure the terminals are a good grade and fit together tightly. Depending how you insulate them, make sure they are mechanically secure so they don't rub against anything.
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Post by cruiser on May 8, 2013 0:03:14 GMT -6
It sounds like things are OK while the R/R is cool at the beginning of the ride but the output voltage gradually drops as the R/R heats up. If you are worried about heat in the original mounting position, you can always add a 80mm 12 volt computer fan like this:  Here's another picture showing a cheaper low output R/R (failed) that I tried on the left. The OEM type is on the right with the fan mounted. The fan gets power from the output of the R/R.  |
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Post by cruiser on May 7, 2013 17:42:28 GMT -6
I think you are overheating the R/R. The amount of heat you describe will only keep building up as you ride especially in warmer weather. The air under the seat does not circulate so the heat will keep building. (Nice to keep the buns warm during winter rides.)  |
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Post by cruiser on May 7, 2013 17:35:47 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on May 7, 2013 17:20:21 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on May 6, 2013 12:04:19 GMT -6
The Walmart unit looks like the best of all worlds. Just remember to take it with you when you leave your scoot unattended.
I like the digital volt meter because it tells you at all times what is happening with the battery. A healthy charging system should show a reading of at least 13.0 volts to a max of about 14.0 volts with the engine running assuming the battery has a full charge to start with. Different electrical loads will affect the voltage reading. Just by looking at the meter while driving down the road, I can tell when my cooling fan is running and I can see if something is loading down the system too much or possibly the charging system is dying.
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Post by cruiser on May 5, 2013 22:23:32 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on May 5, 2013 22:15:20 GMT -6
In Massachusetts, a motorized bike is also called a moped and they fall under the same laws. You need a valid driver's license and they need to be registered. No insurance or inspection is required. 50cc max engine, an automatic transmission, and a maximum speed of 30 mph  are necessary requirements. A small sticker with the expiration date and transaction number takes the place of a license plate..... |
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Post by cruiser on May 5, 2013 18:47:44 GMT -6
Adding a DC voltmeter to monitor charging voltage is a good idea. Many people like to use the LCD type which can be read in direct sunlight and has an automatic back light for night use. Here is the one I have on my VIP50:  I just cut the correct size hole where I wanted to locate it. Hook one wire to ground and the other to an ignition key switched 12 volt source. The reading you get will probably be a little lower than the actual battery voltage because of losses in the scooter wiring. Mine is about .7 volts low so I if the meter reads 12.8 volts, then I know the actual battery reading is 13.5 volts. I bought my voltmeter on eBay. |
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Post by cruiser on May 5, 2013 18:13:45 GMT -6
Since you have a very nice 3 phase charging system, it would seem to be unnecessary to add another charging system somewhere else on the scoot. I'm wondering if this mysterious black box is just an electronic headlight switch which automatically turns on the lights only when the scooter is running. Does your scoot do this? If so, you probably do not have a headlight switch. Black wire from ignition key. Green wire to ground. Yellow wire from stator. (to sense when the engine is running) Brown/white to headlights. The above is an educated guess for the wires running to the box. The 250cc scoots use the blocking diode to perform the auto headlight function. The above is a quote of my previous post. Your readings seem to fall in line with my guess as to the function of each of the wires. You did say previously that you lost your headlights when you unplugged this module. Sounds like a "headlight is on only with the engine running module"? |
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