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Post by cruiser on May 5, 2013 17:51:03 GMT -6
This looks like a basic 2 stroke kit. The primary reduction gear and hand operated manual clutch are on the right side of the engine. Power is then transferred to the left side of the engine by an internal shaft which has a sprocket that then drives the rear wheel by a chain drive on the left side of the wheel. Starting the engine usually involves pedaling the bike and then popping the clutch. Here's my 4 stroke motorized bike. It uses a belt drive transmission with a centrifugal clutch on the left side of the motor. The engine is started with a pull starter like a chain saw. This setup is closest to our scooters in that it is a twist and go.  |
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Post by cruiser on May 5, 2013 0:39:08 GMT -6
The ignition switch has to have an always on hot wire so that when you turn it on things will work. The clock is connected to this wire which shows it is fused with a 20 amp fuse directly to the battery on my scoot's diagram.
It looks like you have a handle on things and we are looking forward to the first fire up with the new R/R.
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Post by cruiser on May 4, 2013 20:02:43 GMT -6
Since you have a very nice 3 phase charging system, it would seem to be unnecessary to add another charging system somewhere else on the scoot. I'm wondering if this mysterious black box is just an electronic headlight switch which automatically turns on the lights only when the scooter is running. Does your scoot do this? If so, you probably do not have a headlight switch.
Black wire from ignition key.
Green wire to ground.
Yellow wire from stator. (to sense when the engine is running)
Brown/white to headlights.
The above is an educated guess for the wires running to the box.
The 250cc scoots use the blocking diode to perform the auto headlight function.
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Post by cruiser on May 4, 2013 19:44:21 GMT -6
There should be no problem with connecting the relay to the upstream side of any circuit controlled by the ignition key. It usually is the easiest way to find a key controlled hot wire. I was lucky enough to find an unused key controlled connector that I hooked up my relay to. Should be no problem using one key controlled black wire to do the work of the other two. Heat due to excessive current flow is not a problem because the key controlled 12 volts has its own 15 amp fuse which determines the maximum amount of current that can flow at any given time. Remember that the headlight/taillight fuse is fed directly from the regulator/rectifier so don't hook that up to the key fed black wire. We at USCOOT are here to help and are very happy when one of our members (students) can learn something new.  |
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Post by cruiser on May 3, 2013 21:02:04 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on May 3, 2013 20:32:46 GMT -6
The first sentence of post #20 did ask if you had 12 volts on pin 86 when you turned on the key. In other words, did you connect a wire from a power line that is controlled by the ignition key? Relays require very little power. You can put a 3 amp fuse in line to the relay if you want. All power wires that are controlled by the key are fused either by individual branch fuses (the fuse block) or the main fuse (usually a 15 amp directly from the battery. Do not add a fuse downstream from another fuse. If you want to add something which requires a fuse, it should have it's own circuit and fuse. The main fuse is the only fuse which can have other fuses downstream. Some guys have replaced the OEM fuse block with a better unit. Running an additional circuit through a new fuse block could be a little complicated. I would just do an additional in line fuse if you think it's necessary. I have no additional fuses on the #86 pin for any of my relays. Sorry about the lack of clarity in my explanations. I try to be as short and concise as possible. I was an electronic tech in my other life.  |
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Post by cruiser on May 3, 2013 18:42:55 GMT -6
Yeehaw -- hold the presses! After some further googling, finally figured out the relay, as follows: -- red wire, formerly to blocking diode, to #30 on the relay -- steady 12v source even with key off. -- yellow wire, formerly FROM blocking diode, to #87 on the relay. -- #85 on the relay to ground. -- at that point, connected #86 on the relay to the positive side of the scoot battery, felt it click, and the headlights went on even with key off, which I understand. Same as just jumpering red to yellow back in chapter 1 of this saga. So I've now connected good ol' #86 to the "downstream" side of one of the fuses that feeds lights, horn, etc., so it will go "live" any time the key is turned on, but only then. Head/taillights go on with key turn now too, as expected. Wondering if adding the relay to that 10A fuse circuit warrants boosting it to a 12.5 or 15? Hard to work on that fuse box, very little slack in the wires. Now if I've ordered the correct R/R, and that fixes the charging problem, ALL I have to do is put everything back together. While waiting for the mailman I'll give some more thought to my notion about putting the R/R and relay (and maybe even the CDI) in the under-seat compartment. Would involve extending quite a few wires and coming up with a suitable mounting surface. Still wondering if I'd be creating an overheating problem by doing that, but it's hard to imagine it could be any hotter than right down there by the engine and muffler. All this info was covered in my two proceeding posts. The danger of connecting to the "downstream" side of a fused circuit for this application is that you will loose your lights and charging if that fuse blows. You should be connecting "upstream" so that if one of the accessory fuses blows, you won't lose lights and charging. Could be catastrophic while cruising at night. Also, could you clarify why you want to add another relay to a 10 amp circuit? |
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Post by cruiser on May 3, 2013 18:15:03 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, chihuahuas.  Tell us a little more about yourself and your scoot in the new student section. My scoot has two hi-lo HIDS. I guess I should do more night riding. ;D |
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Post by cruiser on May 3, 2013 0:13:40 GMT -6
Have you checked to see if you have 12 volts on pin 86 when you turn on the key? Pin 85 definitely has to be grounded. If those conditions are met and you still get nothing, then disconnect wires from pins 30 and 87. Set the meter to measure ohms (resistance) and measure across these 2 pins. You should get maximum resistance (open circuit) with the key off and a short circuit (zero resistance) with the key on. If that doesn't happen, then the relay is defective.
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Post by cruiser on May 2, 2013 20:01:55 GMT -6
With the relay, the blocking diode is physically removed from the scoot, so you will be connecting to the plug which was originally connected to the diode. It makes no difference how you connect to the relay as long as you use pins 30 and 87. Everything else is self explanatory. The headlights will come on with the key. Mounting everything under the seat sounds OK in theory, but the R/R does generate a fair amount of heat and should have free air circulation. The CDI can also be heat sensitive because of the internal electronics. |
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Post by cruiser on May 1, 2013 21:07:56 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, Doug. Most of the install is straightforward, but there may be some confusion in connecting the controller to the headlight circuit. The H4 connector has a high beam, low beam, and ground wire. Make sure you are using the low beam hot wire as the controller wire input and the ground is connected correctly. You could have these reversed. If you have a hi-lo HID kit, then you would also be connecting to the high beam hot wire in the original headlight wire assembly. The functioning of the headlights should be the same as the original setup so you will have to start the engine to run the lights. No additional relay is needed as the controller is the relay.
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Post by cruiser on Apr 30, 2013 21:47:44 GMT -6
[replyingto=ellpee]ellpee[/replyingto][replyingto=ellpee]ellpee[/replyingto]Here is the location of the R/R (regulator/rectifier) on your scoot. It's the large heat sink thing. The smaller heat sink thing to the left is the blocking diode or relay.  These are just above the muffler and inside the fender. If your headlights came on for your night ride, it means that the R/R is working but maybe dying. If the R/R was dead, then the lights would not come on. Check the connector for the blocking diode for good contact and no signs of melting. Check the connectors on the R/R for the same thing. R/R's have no definite lifespan. They can go at any time and sometimes they are no good right out of the box. |
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hard cases
by: cruiser - Apr 30, 2013 20:45:22 GMT -6
Post by cruiser on Apr 30, 2013 20:45:22 GMT -6
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sliders
by: cruiser - Apr 28, 2013 0:03:05 GMT -6
Post by cruiser on Apr 28, 2013 0:03:05 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Apr 23, 2013 14:59:14 GMT -6
Hi Barry. Most people will either install higher wattage bulbs or go to HID kits for the most light. LED bulbs from what I have researched do not throw as much light as a good halogen or HID bulb. They do save a lot on power consumption, but the amount of light is not enough. I installed a HID kit which I discussed in the following thread: thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=250classchinese&thread=2509&page=1You will see some pix on reply #19 near the end of the thread. |
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