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Post by cruiser on May 29, 2013 23:35:56 GMT -6
Coooool!  |
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Post by cruiser on May 29, 2013 17:37:59 GMT -6
Here's an instruction I found on the old SD forum.
To reset the oil light when it reaches 1000/3000 miles you need to turn on ignition key, and at the same time hold down
Hour-Minute-Trip buttons for 10 seconds. This will make the light go out.
Let us know if this works.
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Post by cruiser on May 28, 2013 21:05:48 GMT -6
Good find, JR. That should come in real handy.
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Wrong Belt
by: cruiser - May 28, 2013 18:50:37 GMT -6
Post by cruiser on May 28, 2013 18:50:37 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on May 27, 2013 22:52:59 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on May 27, 2013 22:25:07 GMT -6
According to the service manual, this is a pointless design.
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Post by cruiser on May 25, 2013 20:47:00 GMT -6
If the wires are too hot, then something is pulling too much current. Your complaint is hot connectors which usually means too much resistance in the connector. The connectors may plug together tightly, but that doesn't mean you have a good electrical connection. The male and female metal pins inside the connectors have to fit tightly together. You may have to push the pins out of the connectors in order to tighten them with needle nose pliers.
Another common problem is the quality of the crimps on the metal connectors. Some people try soldering the connectors to improve the electrical connection.
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Wrong Belt
by: cruiser - May 25, 2013 12:46:32 GMT -6
Post by cruiser on May 25, 2013 12:46:32 GMT -6
It looks like the clutch isn't open enough. Most people are able to get enough clearance by using both hands and squeezing the clutch assembly to open it up. Some clutches can be very stiff. I use a large screw driver or a tire iron inserted into the bottom of the belt groove and pry the clutch halves apart while turning the clutch assembly. The belt should be down inside the clutch sheaves far enough to allow it to slip over the variator.
BTW: what size belt did you get?
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Post by cruiser on May 25, 2013 12:35:51 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on May 23, 2013 19:44:56 GMT -6
Welcome to the forum, alf.  I believe that it is a maintenance reminder light to let you know when to change the oil. Try pulling the main fuse for about 30 seconds or disconnecting the battery to see if it resets. |
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Post by cruiser on May 21, 2013 21:40:49 GMT -6
I think he is saying that he will not run the scoot without first mounting the regulator to the frame. I guess the statement could be taken another way.  |
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Post by cruiser on May 21, 2013 20:33:43 GMT -6
I would consider your readings to be within passing limits. The reason your readings are higher is because you already have a broken connection at the connector for the blocking diode. You are using a jumper to bridge the "break", but it isn't going to be as good as a solid piece of wire. This will show as a slightly higher voltage reading in this particular test.
The voltage reading represents the loses in the wiring due to wire resistance and resistance at the connectors themselves. Adding more connections, using an undersized wire or a longer wire run, will increase the total resistance and this shows as a higher voltage.
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Post by cruiser on May 21, 2013 20:15:37 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on May 20, 2013 17:39:39 GMT -6
BA20d describes the type of base (the metal part of the bulb) that this bulb has. If you go back to the link you posted earlier, you will see 2 metal contacts on the bottom of the bulb. One contact is for the low beam filament and the other is for the high beam filament. The metal cylindrical part of the bulb is the ground return for the filaments. These bulbs usually have the same power filaments for the hi/lo set up (25W/25W. 35W/35W, 50W/50W, etc.).
This is a popular socket for scoots and atvs.
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Post by cruiser on May 20, 2013 17:27:23 GMT -6
Yes.
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