|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 5, 2014 22:11:47 GMT -6
Lots of rewiring there, definitely sounds like a job for when fate traps me into removing all the plastic. I'd be tempted at that point to just ignore the stock wiring harness altogether for fan, headlights, and the various R/R and CDI connections, and start from scratch with 12ga or heavier wire and corresponding connectors. If I could minimize voltage drop on those parts of the system I think I'd be sitting pretty. Gauges and minor lights, horn, radio are no longer a big factor since I invested $100 or better in LEDs. Jeez, never would have dreamed a year ago that I'd be talking this way and almost understanding what I am saying.
Do have to say I'm surprised I seem to be the only Tank/Roketa/Jonway/YY250T/whatever driver who is having my degree of charging problems. Guess I just drew the short straw.
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 5, 2014 21:48:26 GMT -6
Is there a setting on the site that would display a "zoomed" version of the scroll pictures when they're clicked, or double-clicked, or whatever? And same question for the little thumbnail pictures some folks have associated with their IDs.
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 5, 2014 17:14:51 GMT -6
... then hopeing by may june when its real nice rideing weather can just enjoy an tinker to ... Has the snow melted in New Hampshire by May/June???  |
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 5, 2014 17:09:28 GMT -6
I left my Roketa with a full gas tank (87 octane) and some StarTron additive over the SUMMER months (Tucson hot, even in garage), and it started right up after five months aside from a few cranks to fill the carburetor. I've left my Magnum the same way over in Ruidoso, considerably colder, probably in the 30's even in the garage on the coldest days. Will see how it goes after seven months. I did make an unexpected visit up there after the first month, though, and it started easily at that point. Just my experiences, others may have different stories or advice.
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 5, 2014 17:00:09 GMT -6
shorten the run and go with a larger size wire you will gain some voltage . There is resistance in wire the thinner the wire the less load it can hold resistance goes with heat . Shorter heaver wire has less resistance . So the 3 yellows from the stator to the regulator use 12 or 14awg wire , use a heavy wire from the battery to the ignition switch . I bet you can pick up .5vdc in your charging system . The electric fan beef up the wire I bet there is some to be made up there and the headlights . I keep harnesses around for parts , post a pic of the plugs you need . John Thanks for ideas and offer. Won't (I sincerely hope!) be doing any more electrical stuff until somebody comes through with that left switch assembly that's on eternal back order, at which time I'll be talking to you again about the headlight bulbs and maybe some of your connector spares. But about the heavier wires: Let's say for grins that I were to run heavier wires from the fan back up to its near-inaccessible connector. On the upstream side of that connector, however, there would still be the original gauge wires from connector to thermoswitch to fusebox to ignition switch to -- ta da! -- battery. So would I really gain anything from upgrading just that last short wire run, or would all those skinnier wires upstream be a voltage bottleneck? If the latter, it would seem I'd have to replace essentially every wire on the scoot to gain much voltage benefit. (I do see the benefit in your stator example, since there's nothing else between it and the regulator.) |
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 5, 2014 16:48:45 GMT -6
If you wish to have connectors in more accessible locations, you could just cut the existing connectors off and solder the wires (covered with heat shrink tubing) where the original connectors were. This will keep the total number of connectors on a given wire run the same as the factory originals and just moves them to a more convenient location. Just my $.02 worth.  Makes sense, although I'm not much with a soldering iron. Wife does stained glass work, though, and is really good; might need to recruit her. |
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 5, 2014 10:02:23 GMT -6
This HAS raised a question in my mind, though. I'd be leaving the original connector where it it, hidden away somewhere way up underneath the plastic, and cutting the wires to insert a new connector somewhere in a much more accessible place. Would adding an extra connector like that, for any of several electrical devices, result in a significant voltage drain? (As many of you know, I've been fighting for every bit of voltage because of a wimpy charging system.)
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 4, 2014 18:48:46 GMT -6
I see the makings here for a great new TV game show: "Stump alleyoop and win a million bucks." You always come through, dude! |
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 3, 2014 18:53:29 GMT -6
Very true, Scot; all that bulb-switching really only got me a workaround solution to my problem, but I'll settle for that for now. Was out today for a couple hours, numerous stops, no charging issues, and thanks to relatively cool weather the fan rarely came on for very long.
As for the Roketa designations, didn't mean to get BobF all stirred up, what I wrote was a little bit tongue in cheek. Was really trying to say no matter what flavor of Roketa you have, chances are the electrical system still has to comply with Ohm's law or all those other laws I never studied in school, so my trials and tribulations probably have some educational value.
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 3, 2014 18:43:50 GMT -6
So far, almost every time I've had to go "plastic-diving" to attack some electrical problem with my scoot (2011 Roketa 250, but that's irrelevant for this post), I've had the thought that I'd like to reroute the wiring so next time it's easier to get at. However, if I could find the same connectors as are used on the original wiring harness, that would be my preference. Does anybody know of a good, inexpensive source for those things? Some are for two wires, some for three, or four, or six, or even as many as nine, but it's that same connector "family" -- those little white plastic fellers with the click retainer to keep them from pulling apart.
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 3, 2014 18:35:02 GMT -6
All good, Scot. I do in fact find posts in all caps harder to read, and it's fact that writing long posts in all caps in internet "venues" has come to mean you're screaming at somebody. But nobody here thinks you're doing that (I don't think), folks are just trying to make you aware of the "protocol" that most posters try to adhere to and how you might be sending an unintended wrong message.
I sure agree, little reason to put hugely expensive tires on what's basically a cheap scoot unless there's a LOT of evidence that they're going to be better in some way. Unfortunately, all too often the people here in the USA who market these things charge a king's ransom for parts. Example: a tiny bit of plastic decorative cover for my turn signals, about the size of my open hand, Roketa wants about $30, and another $15 for shipping! (Weighs maybe six ounces!!!!) And I haven't been able to find any other source for it, so I'm at their mercy.
Anyhow, peace, bro. Keep on posting, I learn from you and I hope you learn from me and everyone else who posts here.
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 3, 2014 8:31:11 GMT -6
Ah so. Will bear that in mind for the day when I finally get at the stator for some reason.
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 3, 2014 8:29:23 GMT -6
OK, we'll both learn if somebody responds. So far I've got two + votes for Avons. When I was checking around town, it seemed like the familiar names -- Pirelli, Michelin, Bridgestone -- cost a lot more without offering much more. Guessing Dunlop might be the same.
|
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 2, 2014 21:28:32 GMT -6
how far is the regulator from the stator ? John Beats me, never having seen the stator (TOO MUCH PLASTIC!!!), but can't imagine it's more than maybe 18-24". Did the AC voltage check on the three yellow stator wires, all good, also checked DC voltage coming out of R/R, also good. As I said, everything is now copacetic UNTIL THE FAN KICKS IN. With the other modifications the system is now holding its own with the fan running, but there's no way the fan should be soaking up that much of the system voltage, especially after I invested the money and effort to put in a lower amperage fan. |
|
|
|
Post by ellpee on Jan 2, 2014 16:15:35 GMT -6
My tribulations are spread over 3-4 different threads, so thought I'd pull it all together here for the benefit of anybody else who finds themselves in my situation.
FIRST, this is about a 2011 Roketa MC-54B-250, assuming that's the right model number for the Roketa with the Honda clone 244cc engine. Lots of confusion over those model designations! Might or might not apply to any other scoot, but the laws of electricity are what they are, so it's worth reading.
My troubles had to do with charging system not keeping up with the load when I was out on an extended run -- voltmeter showed below 12v much of the time, and sooner or later the battery would be depleted to the point (< 10v) where the CDI wouldn't send juice to the ignition and therefore the scooter wouldn't even crank.
Lots of helpful people here suggested all sorts of things, and I followed through sequentially on most of them, as follows:
(1) Replaced front running lights with LEDs. No real effect on my core problem, but nice, bright running lights. About $20.
(2) Replaced tail/brake lights with LEDs. No real effect on my core problem, but nice, bright tail/brake lights. About $40.
(3) Replaced OEM cooling fan, alleged to draw 8 amps, with a 2.8 amp replacement. No real effect on my core problem. About $40.
(4) Replaced all four turn signal bulbs with LEDs. No real effect on my core problem (no surprise, since turn signals are only on briefly anyway), but nice bright turn signals. About $30.
(5) Added an on/off switch for low beam headlights, leaving them off in daytime (only time I ride anyway). About $5. HUGE effect on my core problem, voltmeter now showing almost 14 amps enroute until the fan kicks in, then about 12.7 volts or so. Makes sense, since OEM headlights draw 3 amps x 2. BUT NOTE, still seeing a significant drop when the supposedly much lower amperage fan kicks in; not enough to put me in minus territory with the new bulbs, but troubling. And almost as much when I click on the headlights; If I were a Night Rider, which I definitely am not, they and the fan combined would probably put me back in the voltage doodoo again.
So as of today I feel much better about going on extended daytime scooter runs, but the gremlin is by no means dead. Next time I have a reason to pull the necessary plastic, I'm going to have to take a hard look at the thermoswitch (screwed into lower right corner of radiator, seen from the driver seat) that lets juice through to the fan when the coolant gets hot enough. All evidence would suggest that when it does so, a whole bunch of voltage is leaking away somewhere it shouldn't be.
That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. If anybody knows an easy, no-plastic-pulling way to check that thermostat switch thing, by all means chime in, but for now Ellpee is in pretty good shape and feeling like I really learned something hanging around this forum. I'll likely go LED on the headlights too when I have reason to open up all the front end plastic, but for now I'll just be leaving them off in daytime.
|
|
