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Post by whid on Dec 9, 2012 11:57:21 GMT -6
OH.... I have an even bigger problem getting the coolant changed... I live in an apt. complex and there is no running water for our use. guess they think everyone will start washing their cars and such... So I've seen threads mentioning running a water hose for 20min.. yikes. I'm thinking just to fill a bunch of jugs with Hot water and just run that thru for the flush... followed by the one gallon of distilled I have for a rinse of sorts.... then put the 50/50 in. Maybe run that for 20 miles and drain and fill with 50/50 again. I only have just over 100 miles on it. I only rack up a whopping 4 miles a day. Do we know if 1 jug is enough to fill this baby?
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Post by whid on Dec 9, 2012 11:46:19 GMT -6
Lars..... May I call you Lars? I keep scrolling up to make sure I have spelled your screen name correctly and just gave up ... LOL Not so hot on the PDI.... My intent was to get her naked and find out exactly what I needed and how the routing went etc. etc. Then have my buddy run me to auto store to pick up the replacement goods. Got started on the stripping... Trunk has to come off regardless cause I have vib. insulation plans for that anyway, but as I get a bit deeper with seat and bucket under the seat, I get the call. He can't make it. So great... I get it rideable and hit auto zone. JR had told me in another thread Vacuum was 1/4 and fuel 5/16 or even 3/8. Even calling before to make sure they had what I needed. Upon arrival, they tell me we don't have any 1/4 vacuum. but had already cut 6' of 1/4 fuel line and said this will work for vacuum just as well. It's Huge! I don't recall seeing anything under that scoot with dia. that size. same with the fuel 5/16 & 3/8. Hence the reason I'm sure to replace it. The stock stuff is probably equal to fish aquarium tube for the air lines... LOL Anyway, bought all the sizes in 6' lengths. Clamps were a bit expensive there so figured I could save if I hit Lowes on the ride home. (BTW Lowes is half the price of Home Depot on rubber grommets. You get 2 for a buck at Lowe's, over a buck each at Home Depot). So by the time I get back home, I'm running short on hours to pull this off by sundown, so opted out. I want to make certain I've got the right stuff. I love the comment about juice not worth the squeeze. Fell in the floor laughing... I so know what you mean... That's is a LOT of disassembly.... and that's the easy part.... Putting it back together is what really made me shiver. LOL. I know I've got to do this to rest assured future problems with fuel system have been mostly eliminated....
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Post by whid on Dec 9, 2012 11:12:13 GMT -6
Just the kind of feedback I was looking for... If there is a benefit I'm not aware of by letting quality oil do it's thing. Gear for sure. Motor, I've heard mention of the metal bit's and fragments that some use a magnetic drain bolt to capture. Keeping in mind, this baby has no filter. So even every 200 miles would keep it somewhat flushed. And I bought a 5qt jug, for 14.95. Valvoline 10w-40. I think I would like to end on on some better oil when I start a maintenance schedule. Castrol like JR shows in the oil change video. Or ?? Not sue on the synthetic yet.... Terrilee freaked me out with some can't handle Syn. LOL Did you ever figure out what the residue coming out of yours was? Was it the Venting hose? Anyway, the true beauty I'm seeing with this scoot, is total fluid replacement, some purchases allowing multiple changes, like the 5Qt motor oil and the almost 1 liter of gear oil JR's Video says you can get 4 changes out of... and Jug of 50/50 Prestone, comes out way less than 1 oil change on the 1600 V-Twin Vulcan. And that's just product. I did my own oil changes cause dealer or some shops wanted insane $$$ for an oil change. A lady I work with has a little 50cc, not sure what kind, but she says they charge her 38 bucks at the scoot shop she got it from for an oil change... OMG ! 1 quart of the most expensive oil you can find and 10-15 minutes of time, is a 1/4 of that cost.
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Post by whid on Dec 8, 2012 21:11:20 GMT -6
hehe.... well it's safe to say you know way more than I on scootin... LOL Gender is not part of the smartness equation.... lol I've encounter dumb as a brick in both... and way over my head intelligence in both. The stumper is common sense vs. book smart. My ex. had a 4.0 in school. aced everything... But when we were looking at a full moon one night and she asked me if we were in another state, could we see the other side of the moon. Had to pinch myself.... make sure i was not dreaming.... and to keep from falling on the ground laughing beyond control.....
I was thinking every 100-150 miles... gotta work my way through this 5 qt purchase and get on some 10w-30 maybe... for winter.
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Post by whid on Dec 8, 2012 20:22:51 GMT -6
I had asked as part of another thread, but I am so full of questions, I think it got overlooked.
During the break in period, does it hurt to change your oil and even gear oil too often? It's so cheap and easy, figured keeping the metal shavings, etc out of the system could only be a good thing.
But again, this is a whole new animal to me. I don't know what I don't know.
I look forward to any input offered!
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Post by whid on Dec 7, 2012 13:34:18 GMT -6
No kidding... Bummer. Well I have noticed the difference in auto zones. Some seem like super auto zones.... Like walmart. Lol. I kid u not, and I will snap a pic when I go after work, the a.z. on baseline across from mills mall, had so many, I didn't know where to start. Swear it.! So, I'm headed there after work to pic up a round of 1156-57's. I looked close in the light, and the bulbs are actually scribed on the clear outer covers. They are the OEM part # tho. Was hoping to find a nice conversion chart online but.....notta.
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Post by whid on Dec 6, 2012 22:59:27 GMT -6
BTW.... I have already done a great mirror vibration mod with the plain silicone... it was just what i needed. pop the back cover off the mirror and the 3 holes are just the size to accept BB's or Lead fishing line BB type weights. shoot a bit of the thin silicon in first.... then some BB's little more silicone... more BB's, until you feel like your holding something with MASS. Shake a bit to make sure all the BB's are lodged in the silicone. Also slid the outer sheath of the mirror rod off and glued, get this, slices of neoprene mouse pad to the rod. don't wrap it to the rod just stick it to it. the flaps dampen the vibration just as fins cool the RR/RR or on any heat sink. slide the outer sheath back on to hide the ridiculous looking application and I have no more mirror Vib. on the center stand warming up... sitting a a stop light or scootin down the road.... This goes back to my bow hunting days.... Google compound bow vibration dampeners.... some of the craziest looking things you've ever seen. But work!
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Post by whid on Dec 6, 2012 22:46:42 GMT -6
Thanks Bobf... I totally understand the concept of why it is suggested. I am taking count of the screws that have already vibrated out and the windshield screw has striped out the plastic of the fairing... so the rubbery effect will dampen and secure these areas. I actual picked up black and clear, depending on the area. My concern was in the big guy PDI, he does not specify which. he just says silicone. So i picked up a tube of one that said just silicone and not the adhesive part.... At first very thin and fluid... after it cures... great rubbery surface..... Marine on the other hand is high viscosity and super thick. This may be my choice for filling in the stripped out plastic holes. Maybe even a mix with some plastic dust and shavings. I use this process when repairing my crashed RC Heli's with good results.
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Post by whid on Dec 6, 2012 22:31:58 GMT -6
Excellent, I didn't know of di-electric grease.... I read on a thread somewhere of using wd-40 improved the continuity..... Boy.. Don't you just wish these came with 24k gold plated connectors like high quality audio offers.......... and thanks for the Stem suggestion... Never heard or seen that yet. I saw putting better tires.. but nothing on stems.. Thank You! Kinda wondering also... can you change your motor oil too much during break in? It is so dang easy and cheap, I thought of doing it every 100-150 miles just to get through this 5 qt of 10-40. Also figured it would keep the engine free of metal shavings and fragments... Same question for the gear oil.. Can you change it TOO OFTEN?
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Post by whid on Dec 6, 2012 20:41:01 GMT -6
I so wish I had a garage and another source of transportation. I would start at the front and reconstruct every wire, connector, hose, lines vac and fuel, and I'm sure a lot of hinges, locks, .... You know, everything. LOL
But I have a finite amount of time to pull off just the nessesity work.
There seems to be a lot going on in there from pics ive seen posted and digging with my flashlight.
Which are the must do's? I know all the fuel lines and vacuum cutting them shorter if conditions allow. I would like to just buy a roll of fuel and a roll of vacuum. What are the chances they are consistent in size? How about the radiator/water hoses? Even the hose connecting coolant reserve? Then there are the venting hoses/lines i believe... Like from the airbox to the CVT at the clutch area? Surely not the evap hose that collects the condensation that you drain with your maintenance..... Or the brake lines.... I do not want to skimp while she is naked... Just planning... You know what happens when you fail to plan.....
Would greatly appreciate all input.
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Post by whid on Dec 6, 2012 20:16:59 GMT -6
In the PDI he states Silicone. There seems to be a pretty wide variety... I bought about 3 to compare. There are many that say just "Silicone" and ones that say "Silicone Adhesive"
Which do you use?
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Post by whid on Dec 6, 2012 15:08:07 GMT -6
Thx. Great info. Let me ask this.... Understanding you must disassemble to put these in, and I am doing my major PDI this weekend, does auto zone or pep boys have anything acceptable? Do not wanna tear this puzzle down twice.
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Post by whid on Dec 6, 2012 10:41:26 GMT -6
Amen to the PDI. In my introduction in the registration thread, I stated that I assumed the dealer(or distributor) did this. It was not a order delivered to my home in a crate. Boy was I wrong. I just hit 100 miles in a week and half. I'm now counting the body screws that have vibrated out... Rattles and vibs are worse every day. Don't even wanna think what's going on under the body right now. just gotta make it to the weekend and I'm striping her. Had to do the lube tho.... The rest is fixable, but didn't want to cause permanent damage.
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Post by whid on Dec 5, 2012 22:43:58 GMT -6
Those are cool trailheadmike..... It took me a second to see they are LED. I was thinking i could maybe mount those under the bike to create a road effect. I think we have um all covered now. I'm gonna go look at mine now and see if there is anything on the licence plate or if it uses light from the other sources.
So the T5 wedge serves as the indicator lights as well as the speedo and tach back lighting? And 10 of them... shew.
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Post by whid on Dec 5, 2012 21:19:20 GMT -6
Pondering it.... wow.... that's a LOT of juice savings... you probably could go to full out HID's for the headlights huh... What wattage could you bump up to? Or I guess the savings could also "pay" for many added LEDs...like the strips and such. The one thing i truly hated when riding my Vulcan at night for so many years, was visibility. Just the single 5X3 tail light. I bought this crazy mod that put a ring of red LEDs around your signal lights and would stay on till you hit the signal. They would also act as break lights and do a little strobe effect when first applying breaks. But, you had to run clear lens and change your signal bulbs to amber. Never got to it and found the kit unopened in all my motogear the other day. I may want to try pulling something off with that kit also. Many thanks to everyone for sharing your knowledge and bringing us freshman to a higher understanding!
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