Just had a thought? CFMoto Charging Problems By JR (Read 17,640 times)

[jalat]

But could there be difference in size? Could another one fit only on some 50-150cc scooter and another 150-250cc?
And another says 11 pole.
I mean which one should I buy?

[JR]

They are both identical, one listed for a flat rate of $19.95 + free shipping the other at $24.95 Or best offer + free shipping.

Both from same supplier and both with different descriptions somewhat because of different listings IMO and to my knowledge I don't know of any 11 pole 250's this is a typo or not knowing what they have?

Need to remember the 7-pin R/R is common on the 11 pole stator and a upgrade to 11 pole, if you try this it will be breaking new ground as I can't find any plce that someone has tried it?

Myself I would make a "best offer" on the one listed that way, say at $14 and see if they will sell? That would help on shipping as we know that won't do free shipping outside the continetal US or offer the full $24.95 and ask for free shipping?

[jalat]

I ordered that cheaper one and now we just wait 2-4 weeks.
Then we know better

[tvnacman]

I got so busy with other things this is the first time back . Jalat where do you live ?

John

[tvnacman]

Jalat , see if they have everything you need .

.chinesepartswholesale.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=stator&searchop=or&sort=2a&page=2" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.chinesepartswholesale.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=stator&searchop=or&sort=2a&page=2

John

[jalat]

Today mailman bring me this 7 wire regulator. I decided to try it after winter because it's already too cold now.












Just kidding

When I got it I run to my scooter with multimeter. I checked the wiring and colours are the same and in same order. Only this white mysterious wire is extra.
I put this new R/R on and started the engine. Good start and everything worked. All the electrics were good.

I put one xenon light on and let the engine run hot and started to take some readings from R/R coloured wires. Here are the results.

wire	fan off - idle	fan off - 5000rpm	fan on - idle	fan on - 5000rpm
red	14.3V	14.3V	14.6V	14.6V
black	14.2V	14.2V	14.0V	14.0V
white	11.3V	12.1V	14.7V	13.7V

So tell me why this white wire voltage is changing so much when fan turns on?
Other wires stay pretty steady no matter is the fan on or off.

If the cooling fan wiring will be removed from charging circuit and connected to that white wire, 11.3-12.1V when idling with hot engine might not be enough to keep the fan on?
But could it work good enough?

[JR]

If your readings are correct Jalat then the white wire WILL feed the fan! I think it's changing due to the demand of the system, in other words when you're idling or at 5000rpm with no fan you are not demanding more voltage and when the fan kicks on the system senses a need for volts/amps through the black wire ( which should be the sensing wire)and adds it up to the rating of the R/R which we are not sure of on this R/R?

Again back on the SD post of GY-Rocket he said he was getting up to 16Vdc with his scooter at a higher RPM with his HID's on. Higher voltage demand should mean that the R/R should allow more from the stator after it is rectified into DC instead of shunting it to ground.

With your readings it appears that with a 18 coil stator the white wire is producing voltage at a regulated rate according to the demand?

Now can you turn on both lights and take a reading? Also how much trouble will it be to temporarily splice the white wire into the fan curcuit? Since your scooter has a fuse box it should be as simple as cutting it and temporarily splicing it in but as a caution you could splice it in on the input side of the fuse and leave it fused just in case it overloaded then the fuse would give protection to the fan.

Those are good voltage readings on the red wire too with the fan on! Even on the low end 11.3Vdc would run the fan just not quite as fast it should not hurt the windings.

This may get interesting!

JR

[JR]

I just came back in from outside as I just had another thought? As I said before can you run both HID's and warm her up to the fan comes on and take a reading? If you hold 13.5Vdc+ with the fan on and both HID's on the red wire who cares about the white wire?

Heck hook it up to the auto choke to give it something to do? LOL But I still would still like to know the the readings on all scenerios?

Hurry Jalat! Put on some warm clothes the world is waiting! LOL

JR

[jalat]

It is night now in here. Totally black outside.
I take more readings tomorrow. And actually it is not so cold here yet
.foreca.com/Finland/Tampere?quick_units=us&tf=24h&lang=en" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.foreca.com/Finland/Tampere?quick_units=us&tf=24h&lang=en

[JR]

Well you're right! That's short sleeve weather! OK don't let the night slow you down! Can you say flashlight? ;D

[jalat]

I just checked those different wiring diagrams and JR you are right. All I need to do for testing is to take a piece of extra wire and connect it to the white wire of R/R and to the fuse connector of cooling fan

I will test it tomorrow after work and let you know. And if it works with fan and also charging is good with two hids on and grip heaters on I will order another one for a sparepart

We'll know more again tomorrow I am also pretty excited

[JR]

Great and I forgot about those grip heaters? Man that's a lot so can you test it one thing at a time and lets get a good comparision?

We already know the tests above so try this:

Test without the white wire hooked up:

Both HID's, no fan running
Both HID's with fan running
Both HID's, fan running, grip heaters on

Then do the same tests with the fan hooked up to the white wire.

As it is I'm betting that even with the white wire not hooked up it'll still hold it's on with both HID's on, grip heaters I don't know the specs on your heaters?

It's 7:01 p.m. US central time right now so that makes it about 3:01 a.m. your time right now and I'm sure yiou're getting some shut eye so we'll all be waiting for your results and good night.

JR

[cruiser]

These grip heaters take about 10 watts so they are no too bad. Would only be used when very cold which could be very soon for Jalat. It will be interesting to see readings with everything running. I have had the impression that a weak stator was part if not all of the problem with these scoots. Hope this R/R does the trick.

[JR]

Crusier I've always thought that for whatever reason the stator on the 244cc version was weaker than the linhai even though just looking at them on the internet they appear the same? But just a few windings which would be hard to see would make a difference for sure?

But I still think that with 18 coils there is enough AC there so if this R/R is indeed rated at a higher set point then one would get more DC volts up to the set point limits of course. If this thing works out then what we need to do is see if we can find the manufacturer and get the actual specs on this R/R and then if you wanted to make your own or do like daming69 did and special order one then you would have a reference to go by.

Nice to know on the heaters 10W = less than 1 amp. That's another possibility for the white wire?

JR

[jalat]

Cruiser, I guess you also saw my tutorial how to install grip heater elements?
Those elements were the cheap one from ebay. Actually they broke couple of days after install. They never were really hot. A little bit warm, but not hot. I believe they did not took much watts.

Earlier I had 600cc Honda Shadow custom bike where I installed grip heater elements using the same way. But those elements were not cheap ebay elements. They were good label 3 state (off-hi-lo) elements and cost about 5-7 times more than ebay cheapos. They were good. When +-0'C the Hi state made your hands sweat. After this I cannot recommend those ebay elements for anyone. Buy good ones. So you don't regret for the weak heat and you don't have to do it again. First you can use HI-state and when hot then move to LO-state and you are satisfied.

A few days ago I bought complete grips where was those elements already inside and 3 state also. Damn they are good. And they also takes a lot more wattage than those ebay crap.

I did not read amps with multimeter but somehow I remember to read somewhere HI=40W. Which is 3,33 amp. (12W=1amp) That is a lot of current for these scooters. Actually I installed digital lcd volt meter to my scooter and I have ratings all the time.



With this 6 wire R/R I saw how much current those good grip heaters take. I had 1 hid on an HI-state on grip heaters and cooling fan on. Volts were 13.0 when idle and something like 13.5 when driving. Just enought for good when driving.

Just if any of you guys want to install grip heaters. Buy good ones. Not those cheap chinese 2 state elements. They are only warm and good for already warm day driving.


JR thanks for the tips. I take voltages with my multimeter in all of those different situations. Of course I want to help other guys. If this is "the thing" which might help for every cfmoto owners I am really glad that I were the guineapig

And if this is good enought for both hid's on, grip heaters on and cooling fan on. I think someone should tell that to the manufacturer. I don't believe they react at all, but if they are smart they use 7 wire R/R someday. But hey... money talks. They save every cent they can.

At the moment I am in work. I do my work mostly with computer so most of the time I have possibility to read comments here. Today I just can't wait the moment I get back to home