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Post by scot on Nov 30, 2013 21:54:52 GMT -6
yes i got that far ,an just could not wiggle it out mabey its the cold weather ,did find the bolt I dropped an another on ,like said you will be able to see in my pics that thew radiator is in the front I do like that change ,an you will see in the pics how full it is as well as the overflow hose I am going to drill a hole in the bottom plate to allow the hose to go through ,its so long I may trim it to ,an so now it will run right onto the ground should I have to much or overheat ,at this point other then takeing off the front end an glove compartment wich was what I was going to do ,then I desided ,I got enough apart now ,I don't think it was a leak ,it was just the combo of the cap no on tight an the overflow as iwas allowing it to get right ,I do like the fact the radiator is in front ,I was dumbfunded when I looked at your then looked at mine an said do they just make it look like that no its in fron t as you can see,i guess you could point out how much I should take out or don't need,i am going to get one of those drain pumps that everyone has now there like 7.00,well worth it ,for draing gas tanks quicker an other things as well I thank you bob ,an will put is back together sunday ,scott 8-|oh I willquote so you can see the pics above
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Post by scot on Nov 30, 2013 22:00:23 GMT -6
Not sure about which part you are talking about. So I will make a guess. The black floor piece between the rear engine part and the front steering part. If so, let me say this to you. If wrong just ignore what I have said. First, you must take off the metal strips for you feet. Then you will find a number of screws holding the rubber part down on both sides. Then you will need to loosen up both the rear panels so you can move them aside to get the rubber from underneath the panels. Also need to loosen the two front panels so you can get them out of the way as you work the front of the rubber part loose. The rubber part needs to be loose all around so that it can be maneuvered around as you try to lift it out. That is the way I originally did it. Since then I do things a bit different If it was me now doing it, I would completely remove the rear panels and put them aside for now. That means taking the box off, removing all the screws on the panels. Be careful at the rear as they like to stay together. There are items at the rear that need to be removed also. A small panel under the tail lights needs removed. Also follow the wire on the right hand side from the tail lights to a connector, I believe it was just a slip connector, and take it apart to free the light and the panels to be picked up and moved to the side away from the scoot. Be careful while handling the panels as they are still somehow connected at the rear. Try to not break something. If you don't want to take the side panels completely off they would be free to just push them back a bit while you do whatever work you want to do. You can tip them a bit to one side or the other. This way you won't need to remove the lock on the left side. To remove the lock you move the panels enough to get behind the left panel and work the keeper out from behind the panel and work the cables free. Then you can remove the lock so you can move the panels away. Either way, off or just moved to the rear, you will free the rear of the rubber foot pad. Making it much easier to get the rubber pad off or back on. . Attachments:
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Post by scot on Nov 30, 2013 22:11:02 GMT -6
Thank you scot. It looks like I have a problem in my PC. I could not post those picks but you did. Time for me to do some work on my PC . Maybe something in my Proboards connection or ScooterProfessor setup or something else. Some more time consuming efforts for me. When you do work on your scoot, take your time, take some pictures if you can. I did just that myself, had a lot of photo's and notes on my computer. Then had a problem with my computer. Lost lots of my photo records of what I was doing and notes too. Just try not to have a PC problem destroy your inputs. . hear this one .sounds like that is what I should do is pull out about 6 ounces or so,i guess I was right about one thing ,my gas tank is slimmer an the radiator in in the front wow ,,but I realy thought for sure ,its was whear you guys said it was I hope you guys may have found out 2013 has it in the front ,do I get to move up to a freshman or something ,just kidding thanks Bob Jr .I will be hear aroun an about ,yes let me know when you can what you think scott of the pics
,have you guys seen other in the front like I had said I had never seen the other set up before ,though none of us probley have with the jap ones ,I had said to myself the radiator is right hear in the front |
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Post by bobf on Dec 1, 2013 7:26:01 GMT -6
If you are talking of pulling out 6 oz of coolant I ask why? If the coolant is not leaking from the overflow bottle it is OK. If some does come out of the overflow bottle that is the purpose of the overflow bottle. To drain any surplus in the radiator and bottle capacity. When the engine cools you need some fluids in the overflow bottle body to make sure the radiator stays full as it cools.
Where did they put the gas tank?
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Post by scot on Dec 1, 2013 10:59:15 GMT -6
yes I see what your saying they left some of the 100 in the radiator now I guess couse it did not go down ,so if I drain off a bit that should do it its right there behind it I am confused bob couse you had told me to keep it about half way full back earler in the thread,couse of the exspntion that is cold full right up not hot you had said when cold should be about half way up then it will expand . the gas tank its right behind it few inches its longer not as tall .i can take some better pics ,what up with the gas gage not working it moves up a little ,but after putting 3/4ths gallon in there it does not move just below e.but does moves a little not much,i will post better pic before I put it back together of the radiator an the tank an carb
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Post by scot on Dec 1, 2013 11:16:44 GMT -6
its post #31 bob whear you had said half way when its cold ,what your seeing in pics its cold not hot thank bob .with the gas gage I seen one blue wire was not connected to anything when takeing thing apart,all the plastic on this was surprised to see metal gas tank ,I guess metal is cheaper ,though it rust easyer sorry I am kinda jumping around was up late playing around last night till130am having coffey then bit game outside near 40 today ,they talking 50 this week I may just put plate on it am take few short rides around town
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Post by bobf on Dec 1, 2013 12:04:27 GMT -6
yes I see what your saying they left some of the 100 in the radiator now I guess couse it did not go down ,so if I drain off a bit that should do it its right there behind it I am confused bob couse you had told me to keep it about half way full back earler in the thread,couse of the exspntion that is cold full right up not hot you had said when cold should be about half way up then it will expand . the gas tank its right behind it few inches its longer not as tall .i can take some better pics ,what up with the gas gage not working it moves up a little ,but after putting 3/4ths gallon in there it does not move just below e.but does moves a little not much,i will post better pic before I put it back together of the radiator an the tank an carb Some confusion can happen. As it is right now, the overflow drain is working for you. It is letting the excess to escape. My saying to keep the overflow bottle to a halfway point was just saying not to let it go dry. You really need some in there to make it work properly. It is the same as in a car. Fill the overflow container too full and when the engine gets hot it starts overflowing down the hose to the street. That is why they usually mark the side of the overflow container to keep a small amount in there when the engine is cool. Some I have seen have two lines on them. One for cool fill and one for hot level. . |
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Post by scot on Dec 1, 2013 15:52:58 GMT -6
  right yes it seems the same I learned one thing not to take plastics off in cold weather ,,but yes I was able to do what I needed to do I carefull took a wide enough drill bit ,couse I could not get drill under to big ,the little hole in the front help start it an the old visegrips a little forse ,an I have the hose hanging out the bottom ,so I will definatly know ,when it leaks out the hose , thought poor design,i finaly got it put back together I am sure its just one of the thing I may modify ,just need to put the seat back on an floor plates ,it was hard to get one side back one ,lesson learned is the plastic bends better in warmer temps,but I got what I wanted done ,will warm up ,then go take pic of hose hanging out an add it ,thanks bob ,I think I will just see how it goes from hear like you said ,I am going to get plates an suppoed to be 50 later this week an take for a real spin few miles still only 1 mile 8-|I like that one live an learn thanks to you guys I got what I wanted to done ,an guess the leak was the overflow wich allows the fluid to run all over ,now with the hole I feel like I got something done ,pics before an after I will clamp it an trim about 2 inches off it ,but now I wont have overflow running onto things other then the ground an this one the radiator is in the front,i guess one who has 2013 ,can learn from this thread, all is pretty much the same the gas tank is slimmer longer ,another thread about the gas gage,am not to worried ,did you remember how much fuel they hold I think its about 3 gallons,normaly I would not be happy about gas gage not working ,but with my average round trip being 30 miles ,it wont be that bigg an issue ,though if it turns out an easy fix ,then why not thanks bob |
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Post by ellpee on Dec 14, 2013 17:13:36 GMT -6
Hate to hijack a thread, but I have to say all these MC designations are confusing. My 2011 Roketa paperwork says either MC-54B-250 or MC-54-250B -- sorry, don't have it in front of me at the moment -- but it very definitely has the 244cc vertical engine. And for the original poster, best I can recall, on my 2011 Roketa the radiator filler cap is not under the BATTERY cover, it's under a second little access panel under the seat, to the rear of the battery cover. Mine also has stickers on it that say YY250T, though as others have noted, that designation is not to be relied upon. CORRECTING MISINFORMATION: Got back to Tucson and checked my Roketa, and the radiator cap is indeed under the BATTERY cover; that other little trap door gives access to the spark plug. Sorry, was working from an old, often flawed memory. |
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Post by scot on Dec 18, 2013 16:08:45 GMT -6
its ok I learned a lot about the scooter from this thread an you all helped ,an was most glad to make the hole an the pan to allow drain off of antifreeze straight to the ground, an not all over the parts seems was poor design,an that the radiator is in the front was a nice find ,in the spring I will probley drain off a few ounces to have it still more the 3/4ths full  |
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Post by scot on Dec 21, 2013 15:27:39 GMT -6
so I learned from this thread anyone with the newer jonway 244cc with the radiator in the front its A + to seems to have helped the cooling issues some have with it under the seat ,if you get any leaking is probley the overflow ,an don't overfill it seems to be the answer an if you ever have to take part ,I recomend making I hole in the plastic pan ,to allow it to drain for any further reasons ,+ one gets to see whats in there an what is loose an any missing screws nuts or bolts , |
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Post by scot on Mar 26, 2014 10:10:50 GMT -6
this one has the pictures of our radiator not sure it shows the connectors but that there at the bottom on back side low
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