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Post by alleyoop on Nov 4, 2013 15:18:57 GMT -6
Just a question have you tested the compression and if so what PSI does it register? Just trying to get to the bottom of the problem your having. Alleyoop
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Post by churchy on Nov 4, 2013 16:48:30 GMT -6
i do not have a compression tester and i do not know anyone with one but the barrel and piston are in good nick
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 4, 2013 19:23:37 GMT -6
Then why do you say the compression is a problem? How does the motor run, do you have a Tach on the scooter to let you know the rpms the motor is turning at any throttle position. What happens when your riding it that you say you have a problem? Alleyoop
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Post by churchy on Nov 4, 2013 19:51:20 GMT -6
as the title of this thread suggests, it is a NON RUNNER i do have a tach but it isnt very useful on an engine that DOSENT RUN. i was goining along perfectly fine until it stopped, electrics still work, plug fires, fuel is going through and the cylinder is in good shape..what is suspect if the barrel was coated by about 1mm of think black oil everywhere so the piston rings arnt doing the job,it doubt the mixture is rich as only upjetted on size after it kept overheating, i wonder about crank case seals, this is where we are at alley.
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 4, 2013 21:30:35 GMT -6
Well go to HARBOR FREIGHT and get a cheap COMPRESSION GUAGE they really are not expensive to actually find out how bad the compression is. If it is UNDER 100PSI forget it they even have a hard time starting and running at between 100-120psi. Your best bet right now trying for cheap is put on new rings since it is allowing oil to get to the chamber. Alleyoop
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Post by churchy on Nov 5, 2013 10:28:38 GMT -6
pervious to it not working the garage said it had 60 psi and thats when it was running fine...
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Post by churchy on Nov 5, 2013 13:12:36 GMT -6
its getting dark on this side of the pond at about 4pm, and i didnt realise until i took the engine of my bike into my room but the piston is utterly sratched on oneside and the piston rings have melted into their grooves, so y guess is this is compression, but i dontknow how they would deteriate so quickly within a week of instilation?
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 5, 2013 13:19:56 GMT -6
Well if they melted into the groves you overheated the motor. Running LEAN and probably not enough oil mix in your gas to lube it. Also after you get the new top end DO NOT RUN it at Wide Open Throttle for at least 50miles. High RPMS is the one thing that destroys motors pretty quick. Alleyoop
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Post by churchy on Nov 5, 2013 13:37:15 GMT -6
but is could not have been running lean, as the inside was coated in oil, and was fouling plugs, and the melted ring is just on the side that is badly scratched, so i would think its more todo with friction than overall heat. my friend suggested maybe it was metal in the crank case, i am going to replace crank and seals and bearings before i put on the top end so i wont have to go through the trouble of doing it again, ever.
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Post by churchy on Nov 5, 2013 17:03:22 GMT -6
*UPDATE* the inside of the cylinder the piston pin and conrod are sticky, like really sticky, is this just dried oil or what
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Post by churchy on Nov 6, 2013 17:35:22 GMT -6
okai looked inside the crank from the cylinder end, it is all black ran my finger around and it is gritty...i think this may be causing piston to grind up and hopefuly this will sort that out, also the red line on a tach, what determines where it is, or what part if upgraded will be able to raise that red line?
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 6, 2013 19:25:26 GMT -6
The type of motor determines the SAVE RPMS you can run the motor. Besides why worry about that when you have a none working motor. As a matter of fact from your other post what you found in the case I would just get a new motor yours needs a new crank and the whole top end. Alleyoop
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Post by churchy on Nov 6, 2013 20:00:47 GMT -6
i have got a new crank and top end...i just need to get these rounded bolts off so i can split the case
parts are quite cheap over here, i have a massive scooter depot about 10 miles away and i can get a high quality aluminium 70bbk for 50 pounds, and got a full circle racing crank reinforced that supposedly can withstand 15,000 rpm. god know what scooter would do that! and that was only 40 pounds... so 90 pound for new motor, not that bad...
oh and btw found out why even with a bbk the scooter didnt go past 35mph...restricted LOL
and what an earth is harbour frieght?
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Post by churchy on Nov 7, 2013 8:40:24 GMT -6
moving on in disemling my engine, a flywheel puller came took that off, then took of the stator...oil everywhere, i have an mechanical oil pump mounted to the side of the stator, and in between the engine casing and stator it was filed with oil, but it dosent look like the pump fills it with oil, and i cant find a place to administer or drain the oil so when i come back to reinstalling the stator once new crank is in what do i do?
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Post by churchy on Nov 20, 2013 19:57:39 GMT -6
well split the crankcases. upon inspection the crank is worn down, it isnt missing large bits of metal but has lost a little it all over, inside of the cases are dirty and feel like sand paper...crank seal on the stator side was leaking, very badly...i am in the process of cleaning the cases, as i dont think anyone has ever cleaned it since 03, there is about 4mm of grime around the stator and in the ctv, I have some new racing barings and seals with a full circle HPC reinforced crank. Running this with a mid race cylinder that has a very broad powerband that starts a 9k rpm and dosent rop off till 12.5k prm all that time producing 9hp so, i am putting in taller gears to put less stress on the motor. Now what i am wondering is the size of my carb, it is a stock 17.5mm, would i see much performance increase with a larger carm, 19/21mm?
Alley looking for you profound scootering knowledge!
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