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Post by dangerousdave on Mar 30, 2013 12:24:29 GMT -6
The bike has only 500 miles on it, changed all the fluids, yesterday while out riding it was shuttering bad at take off...got it home took off clutch cover, Cleaned everything up and changed gear oil. Drove fine afterwards. Now today it's doing it again. It's a 2012 Jonway 250 yt Will this do damage? Only vibrates at initial start off...smooth going down the road. thanks in advance! Dave
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Post by alleyoop on Mar 30, 2013 13:43:36 GMT -6
It is most likely just the Clutch that is slipping and not grabbing the bell good enough. Are you babying it on start offs? That is a heavy scoot to move from a dead stop so give it some MOJO starting off. When you clean it make sure you oil the rubber inserts that the clutch retracts on so the pads slip off easy off the rubber hold downs also oil the STUD that the pads swivel on you want the Pads to not stick to require a lot of centrifugal force to swivel out.
Here is a video on what to lubricate on the clutch: Alleyoop
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Post by dangerousdave on Mar 30, 2013 15:33:04 GMT -6
Wow! Thank you for the great advice! I was babying it oin take off's...when I get her the throttle on take off I dont notice the vibration at all! Love your bike in the picture above!
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Post by ridecheap on Apr 3, 2013 7:58:23 GMT -6
check variator and clutch.
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Junior
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Post by skyrider on Apr 3, 2013 12:20:07 GMT -6
I have seen this complaint several times and have experienced it myself. I found the solution (at least for me) by accident. I'm sure there are those who will disagree but it works super well. In servicing my 250 I put a few drops of 90 wt gear oil on the needle bearing in the clutch assembly. Two or three drops found their way to the surface of the bell. No more stutter. No it does not slip , it takes hold just as it should but no chatter or stutter. That was more that 5000 miles ago and it still works perfectly. I didn't do it on purpose but if it ever returns next time will be on purpose.
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Post by dangerousdave on Apr 3, 2013 13:42:37 GMT -6
Hum, Interesting! Thanks! what's weird now after making the post it hasn't done it since. strange.
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Post by ellpee on Apr 3, 2013 16:24:00 GMT -6
Wow, I would've thought getting oil or anything of the kind on the friction surface of the bell would be exactly the WRONG thing. I'm about to pull off my bell and rough up the pads a bit for the same problem; if that doesn't do it maybe I'll ve-e-ery carefully try the oil thing. Do you suppose silicone or teflon would have the same effect? I have spray cans of both....
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Junior
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Post by skyrider on Apr 3, 2013 17:06:42 GMT -6
I used 90 wt synthetic gear oil on the bearing so that is what got on the bell. Could not have been more than two or three drops at most.
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Post by ellpee on Apr 4, 2013 22:39:33 GMT -6
Boy, that goes against all instincts, but if roughening up my clutch pads doesn't solve my issue I'm strongly tempted to try it. If I do, will most certainly post here for all to read.
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Post by cruiser on Apr 5, 2013 20:35:35 GMT -6
I have run the transmission on my motorized bike, which has a centrifugal clutch similar to our scoots, with gear oil (clutch runs in oil) and dry. Works either way. Did run smoother with the oil which I think prevents glazing of the clutch lining. Running a dry clutch too gently can cause glazing which can cause the shuddering on initial acceleration until the clutch locks up. A couple of drops of oil might be a cure for recurring shuttering. Let us know how things work out if you try the oil method.
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Post by ellpee on Apr 6, 2013 8:12:08 GMT -6
Based on that last I think I WILL try it; plan to do the work today or tomorrow. Worst that could happen, I suppose, is I have to open it up again and clean the bell and pads with mineral spirits, then rough up the pads again. Still thinking, though, that maybe teflon or silicone is an option .... ?
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Post by ellpee on Apr 6, 2013 16:18:14 GMT -6
Well, that was a fiasco. The brand new Craftsman impact wrench I bought off EBay couldn't even budge that nut on the clutch bell, nor could we break it loose with a 4' long breaker bar. So for the present I guess I'll just live with the low-speed chatter -- it's not a red tag situation, just annoying. One suspects red Loctite, or 15 Chinamen hanging on the torque wrench when they put the bolt on. From shopping around I know impact wrenches come in many different "horsepowers," and I guess the one I scored for $45 just isn't up to the job.
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Post by alleyoop on Apr 6, 2013 16:23:27 GMT -6
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Post by cruiser on Apr 6, 2013 18:22:00 GMT -6
Well, that was a fiasco. The brand new Craftsman impact wrench I bought off EBay couldn't even budge that nut on the clutch bell, nor could we break it loose with a 4' long breaker bar. So for the present I guess I'll just live with the low-speed chatter -- it's not a red tag situation, just annoying. One suspects red Loctite, or 15 Chinamen hanging on the torque wrench when they put the bolt on. From shopping around I know impact wrenches come in many different "horsepowers," and I guess the one I scored for $45 just isn't up to the job. A 4 foot breaker with one hundred pounds of force will give 400 foot pounds of torque which is more than most AC powered impact wrenchs. If you are using a battery powered torque wrench, I doubt if it would be strong enough for dependable work on the CVT. The AC powered Craftsman is at least as powerful if not more powerful than the HF model. The AC models can usually handle CVT work very well. I have a DeWalt model which is what the HF model is cloned after. Try applying some heat with a propane torch just before hitting with the impact wrench.
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Post by alleyoop on Apr 6, 2013 21:26:04 GMT -6
For the price and what your going to use it for the HARBOR FREIGHT CHICAGO one is your better buy and will do the job, the others are very pricey. Alleyoop
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