Bad stator or R/R ? By daven68 (Read 7,034 times)

[cruiser]

If you have the YY250T, the CDI will be to the right of the regulator/rectifier like in this picture:

[scootforfun]

JR, it's a 5-wire R/R, not 6. I did check that much out today when we had the panels off. And just to be clearer, because so much is unclear, I mean there are five wires in the main multipin going into the R/R. However, there are also three other wires attached to the casing of the R/R.

It's clear we are going to have to shoot a lot of pics of this thing next time we disassemble, and I am just kicking myself for not already having done it. By now you would have probably identified more clearly what components are on his scoot. I shoot pics for my LH300 any time I am in disassembly mode.

I too want to know why I showed high 13's when I strapped the multimeter over the wires going to the battery terminals once his engine was running without the battery connected. I did not see you explain the reason for that. I mean how could the system not be charging right if 1) it's running on its own with out the battery connected, 2) if the leads show 13.8+ volts? I interpreted that as the system charging properly. Maybe that's wrong.

It also just so happens that he has the exact battery I purchased, but have not used permanently yet on my bike, (I believe I still have the OEM battery on board my LH300)- because that new battery never held charge for me. It died the day after I had charged it fully with the BTJR. Wouldn't even turn my engine over after just a day of sitting on the bike after a full, solid green charge on the BTJR. And so I am wondering now if all along it wasn't just his battery dying, and on the way out. And we are talking about a PowerSonic PTZ10S, to be exact.

I will not be ordering that battery ever again, and I just ordered a newer AGM technology 10AH, 140 CCA battery. To be exact, this one:
.dealsourcedirect.com/ubc43020.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.dealsourcedirect.com/ubc43020.html
I will be towing a whopping 19AH between two batteries on my LH300. Yeah, I am serious about not getting stuck 100 miles or more away from home. ;D
Posted so just in case you need a new battery, Dave, there's the link. Best in stock price I found.

[scootforfun]

Oh, and btw cruiser, that pic is different than what his R/R looks like. The multipin wires come in from the top, not sides. And JR, while the YY250T-2 bike you posted appears to have a similar body style to Dave's jonway, there are some differences. The muffler is different, there is no speakers on board, and a few other things. But if it is specified as a YY250T-2, the engine components are probably very close to his. And yup, look at the R/R in this diagram:
.shenkemotor.com/partsDetail.asp?id=121" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.shenkemotor.com/partsDetail.asp?id=121

That appears to match his. Note the five wires in the multipin. THose diagrams, for the most part, are the closest thing I have seen yet about his bike, so I am very glad you found that link JR, thanks.

[JR]

May 7, 2012 0:49:26 GMT -6 scootforfun said:

JR, it's a 5-wire R/R, not 6. I did check that much out today when we had the panels off. And just to be clearer, because so much is unclear, I mean there are five wires in the main multipin going into the R/R. However, there are also three other wires attached to the casing of the R/R.

It's clear we are going to have to shoot a lot of pics of this thing next time we disassemble, and I am just kicking myself for not already having done it. By now you would have probably identified more clearly what components are on his scoot. I shoot pics for my LH300 any time I am in disassembly mode.

I too want to know why I showed high 13's when I strapped the multimeter over the wires going to the battery terminals once his engine was running without the battery connected. I did not see you explain the reason for that. I mean how could the system not be charging right if 1) it's running on its own with out the battery connected, 2) if the leads show 13.8+ volts? I interpreted that as the system charging properly. Maybe that's wrong.

It also just so happens that he has the exact battery I purchased, but have not used permanently yet on my bike, (I believe I still have the OEM battery on board my LH300)- because that new battery never held charge for me. It died the day after I had charged it fully with the BTJR. Wouldn't even turn my engine over after just a day of sitting on the bike after a full, solid green charge on the BTJR. And so I am wondering now if all along it wasn't just his battery dying, and on the way out. And we are talking about a PowerSonic PTZ10S, to be exact.

I will not be ordering that battery ever again, and I just ordered a newer AGM technology 10AH, 140 CCA battery. To be exact, this one:
.dealsourcedirect.com/ubc43020.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.dealsourcedirect.com/ubc43020.html
I will be towing a whopping 19AH between two batteries on my LH300. Yeah, I am serious about not getting stuck 100 miles or more away from home. ;D
Posted so just in case you need a new battery, Dave, there's the link. Best in stock price I found.

I use this company, free shipping over $75. no BS one year warranty and I use a jet ski battery on all my scooters, my 250B's have a 14AH/210CCA batteries. Going on 3 years old and I don't own a battery tender, never been stranded.

Again the linhais will handle the load, convert your scooter to all LED's and then run the lights like you want, you'll hold a good 13.5Vdc+ voltage even in the hot summer.

.apexbattery.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.apexbattery.com/

Now since we know your R/R is 5 wire then I'm going to ask this question again, was this scooter bought used and has anyone else worked with/on it? The 5-pin R/R is odd and I've never seen it on any 250 but rather only on 150 scooters but Jonway sometimes can pull things on you that others don't. Also they are stingy with their diagrams because you have to be a registered dealer with them for access but if need I got a friend who can pull that one off for me.

I'll dig through my stuff because I have a 5-wire R/R diagram in some of my stuff. Also this scooter didn't come with all the bells and whistles as I say (remote and alarm)

Here's a 5-pin R/R for reference;

.ebay.com/itm/Scooter-Moped-ATV-GY6-5-Pin-Voltage-Regulator-152QMi-157QMJ-125cc-150cc-/250966960215?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6ecbe857&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.ebay.com/itm/Scooter-Moped-ATV-GY6-5-Pin-Voltage-Regulator-152QMi-157QMJ-125cc-150cc-/250966960215?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a6ecbe857&vxp=mtr

3 other wires? What color? I need to know 3 things with clear pictures.

The wires from the stator or the plug that the R/R plugs into, what colors are they?

The R/R what color wires are they? If it is a two plug R/R what colors are each plug and what are the colors of each plug they plug into?

This doesn't add up? I know of no 250 out there that doesn't have a 3 phase stator and if it is the same as Cruisers the stator will have 5 wires coming from it;

3 yellows = stator AC power
red/white = CDI pulse wire
green = ground

The 3 yellows and green plug into the R/R the red/white go to the CDI.

Also I need pictures and the wire colors of the CDI.

Unless this scooter has a totally different set up I'm thinking it has the wrong R/R? Again was it purchased used and been worked on?

Also for reference the R/R has nothing to do with the scooter running if the stator, CDI and coil are good. If this CDI is DC then it must have a charged battery too. The R/R is for one thing accessories and charging.

Pictures and wire colors will tell me a lot and we'll go from there.

JR

[daven68]

Hey JR, man my head is spinning with all this. Don`t have time right now before work to get into it and it may be the weekend before I can, but we will take many pictures of the guts of this thing. Should have done that from the start.

Yes,that picture in the link looks to be almost the exact same bike minus the muffler and Roketa labels. My bikes been repainted a couple of years ago after a wreck but I dont recall it saying jonway on the outside, only on the plate under the seat does it say jonway. to be exact it says jonway 244cc yy250t-2. engine family 7jnyc025nfg , evap family 7jnye0100nfg. don`t know if that helps or not.

When I bought the bike it was the only 250 he had, he deals in mostly 50cc. He claimed he ordered it for a woman who changed her mind at the last minute and gave me a little off the price. It appeared to be brand new with just a few miles on it. Only thing he said he did to it was change out the Chinese fluids, checked all the bolts ect... I don`t believe he made any kind of modifications to it.

can`t say for sure but I believe there was 3 green wires attached to the surface of the RR to one of the face screws. Again, pictures will be worth 1000 words which we will do first chance I get.

Also still super qurious as to why after hooking up the remote did the battery suddenly start charging again .Thats really got us puzzled
What are your thoughts on that?
Thanks again...

[JR]

The 3 greens are just ground wires and they used the bolt on the R/R to make connection to the frame and ground them. Most of the time green wires bolt up with the black negative battery cable on the frame.

You asked why it started charging when you hooked up the remote? You said you found unconnected wires and it was the R/R? Now I'm confused? LOL

Again read my last post and get those pictures and answers and we'll figure it out.

Now "if" this scooter has what is called the remote/alarm system you should have a little push button remote on the key chain. If you do have a remote and the scooter will run with the battery disconnected here is what is happening.

The remote system is simply a key switch that is operated remotely by push button sending unit. It works just like your key switch which you turn on or off manually with a key.

Now if the remote is by chance in the key on position then when you hit the start button the scooter will run.......BUT as you said it will not stop the engine with the key then, why? you still have the remote key switch on that's why. You have to use the kill switch on the handle bar. The kill switch does one thing, ground out the CDI where the engine will not run.

Think of it like this, put two manual key switches together on the same lines. Turn them both on and start the scooter. If you turn one off the scooter will still run because you still have one switch on feeding power down the lines.


We'll wait on the pictures and answers on the wires.

[scootforfun]

Yep, until we shoot some clear pictures of all this and get them to you, I am done with this thing. Will probably be at least this weekend, so just table this for now JR, and thanks for your help. We'll be in touch, with pics either over the weekend or later, but sometime in the next couple of weeks.

In the meantime, I am working on the LH300, to make it better. The fricken battery deal fell through, and they had to cancel the order cause they apparently DID NOT have a good one in stock. It's a popular battery, and apparently sells well. But that ties up my funds now for at least 5 days through the bank refund process. GOD that irks me.

I still want to go double bi-xenon on my bike, and I am still keeping my stock 35W's on the headlights until I can sort that out. But that's another thread, so let's stay on topic here. Table this thread until we get the pics.

[JR]

Why don't you look at one of these? I'm telling you jet ski batteries are tough!

.apexbattery.com/jet-ski-batteries-universal-power-jet-ski-batteries.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.apexbattery.com/jet-ski-batteries-universal-power-jet-ski-batteries.html

I'll draw the diagram again to include another relay where you can run a heavy wire all the way to the battrery and then put those bulbs in and quit worrying about it. The linhai can handle it.

JR

[fairweasel2323]

May 7, 2012 13:15:56 GMT -6 JR said:

The 3 greens are just ground wires and they used the bolt on the R/R to make connection to the frame and ground them. Most of the time green wires bolt up with the black negative battery cable on the frame.

You asked why it started charging when you hooked up the remote? You said you found unconnected wires and it was the R/R? Now I'm confused? LOL

Again read my last post and get those pictures and answers and we'll figure it out.

Now "if" this scooter has what is called the remote/alarm system you should have a little push button remote on the key chain. If you do have a remote and the scooter will run with the battery disconnected here is what is happening.

The remote system is simply a key switch that is operated remotely by push button sending unit. It works just like your key switch which you turn on or off manually with a key.

Now if the remote is by chance in the key on position then when you hit the start button the scooter will run.......BUT as you said it will not stop the engine with the key then, why? you still have the remote key switch on that's why. You have to use the kill switch on the handle bar. The kill switch does one thing, ground out the CDI where the engine will not run.

Think of it like this, put two manual key switches together on the same lines. Turn them both on and start the scooter. If you turn one off the scooter will still run because you still have one switch on feeding power down the lines.


We'll wait on the pictures and answers on the wires.

U have same scoot as me if u have the YY250T-2, I have the 244cc motor the Honda Clone, not the Lihani. the pic Cruiser posted is a YY250T not ur scooter , but the same motor. Theres no remote/alarm option for the YY250T-2 depending on year it is should have Radio/MP3 player? My YY250T-2 is also marked MC-13-250 thats the Roketa Model same scoot mine has both markings, YY250T-2 and MC-13-250. The YY250T is the same as the MC-54-250. I will post a couple pics and wait to see ur pics and should be able to figure this out.

[fairweasel2323]

couldnt get a good look right now still dark but will get a pic of my R/R up to compare to Cruisers from what I could see it did look familiar but dark and my body panels are still on.

[fairweasel2323]

I believe my wires run into the top or R/R too??

Nope out the side 6 wire 3 Yellows and a Green, Red, and Black

.scrappydogscooters.com/CF250_Water_cooled_parts.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.scrappydogscooters.com/CF250_Water_cooled_parts.html

Scroll down u will 6 wire three phase regulator rectifier I know u said 5 wires better count again!! cause Cruiser's pic is of the 244cc Motor and its same as my YY250T-2 with the 244cc Motor this whole page from scrappy is parts for the 244cc Honda Helix Clone

On ur CVT how many bolts u have should only be two on the 244cc

scooterdoc.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=power&action=display&thread=5023
What Engine do U have?? Badge might say 244cc but could be wrong?? Hope this helps and cant wait to see ur pics when u get back online!!

[fairweasel2323]

May 7, 2012 0:59:05 GMT -6 scootforfun said:

Oh, and btw cruiser, that pic is different than what his R/R looks like. The multipin wires come in from the top, not sides. And JR, while the YY250T-2 bike you posted appears to have a similar body style to Dave's jonway, there are some differences. The muffler is different, there is no speakers on board, and a few other things. But if it is specified as a YY250T-2, the engine components are probably very close to his. And yup, look at the R/R in this diagram:
.shenkemotor.com/partsDetail.asp?id=121" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.shenkemotor.com/partsDetail.asp?id=121

That appears to match his. Note the five wires in the multipin. THose diagrams, for the most part, are the closest thing I have seen yet about his bike, so I am very glad you found that link JR, thanks.

I think u have the same R/R! 6 wires, its just mounted other way I bet u r scoot has it mounted with both bolt holes therefor putting wires at the top! I zoomed in and counted those wires on the diagram and theres six i have that same diagram that came with my scoot. Mine is mounted like Cruiser's with one bolt u can see his second bolt hole is empty too.

[fairweasel2323]

My Diagram, pic I took with camera phone I have the whole Parts Diagram book, for this model scooter Bali 250, YY250T-2, MC-13-250, etc sure its got a few other names lol



Heck its probably some good info to have on the forum, but I have no scanner if u want the whole Parts Diagram for this scooter model I can copy it and get it to u some how still? ill go to library and copy it and mail it to u even!

[JR]

Fairweasel I have the body parts diagram, just haven't had a chance to download it to my server will get to it though.

Also I know it should have 6 wires but sometimes they will throw a curve at you and the Chinese will use what they have on the shelf that day when they build them. Properly wired a 5 pinn R/R can and will work if it has the correct matching stator.

We'll just have to wait and see what he has and this style scooter is called by many names including the Bali 250 which I am very familiar with.

JR

[fairweasel2323]

Ok cool didnt know if u had the parts diagram. Yep Bali 250, Roketa MC-13-250, Jonway YY250T-2, theres a Tank Touring 250, I could keep going I believe theres alot more names!! LOL