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Post by fairweasel2323 on Aug 16, 2012 10:20:27 GMT -6
I went with these short straights i want a nice 90 degree for the rear anyways with it being a 10inch wheel  |
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Post by fairweasel2323 on Jun 1, 2012 17:54:58 GMT -6
Yeah we have the same scoot mine is a 2009 Jonway YY250T-2 stamped as Jonway on VIN Badge but titled as a Roketa MC-13-250 stickered with both model numbers lol got the 244cc Honda Clone its blue with Radio/Mp3 player and optional rear trunk just hit over 5,000 miles carb cleaned once, a little electric problem, and one rear tire.
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Post by fairweasel2323 on May 20, 2012 1:52:12 GMT -6
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Post by fairweasel2323 on May 14, 2012 10:55:08 GMT -6
He said his wires from top I bet they mounted the R/R other way with both bolts to have them come out the top?
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Post by fairweasel2323 on May 14, 2012 10:53:36 GMT -6
Ok cool didnt know if u had the parts diagram. Yep Bali 250, Roketa MC-13-250, Jonway YY250T-2, theres a Tank Touring 250, I could keep going I believe theres alot more names!! LOL
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Post by fairweasel2323 on May 13, 2012 8:27:04 GMT -6
 My Diagram, pic I took with camera phone I have the whole Parts Diagram book, for this model scooter Bali 250, YY250T-2, MC-13-250, etc sure its got a few other names lol  Heck its probably some good info to have on the forum, but I have no scanner  if u want the whole Parts Diagram for this scooter model I can copy it and get it to u some how still? ill go to library and copy it and mail it to u even! |
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Post by fairweasel2323 on May 13, 2012 8:16:19 GMT -6
Oh, and btw cruiser, that pic is different than what his R/R looks like. The multipin wires come in from the top, not sides. And JR, while the YY250T-2 bike you posted appears to have a similar body style to Dave's jonway, there are some differences. The muffler is different, there is no speakers on board, and a few other things. But if it is specified as a YY250T-2, the engine components are probably very close to his. And yup, look at the R/R in this diagram: .shenkemotor.com/partsDetail.asp?id=121" rel="nofollow" target="_blank"> .shenkemotor.com/partsDetail.asp?id=121That appears to match his. Note the five wires in the multipin. THose diagrams, for the most part, are the closest thing I have seen yet about his bike, so I am very glad you found that link JR, thanks. I think u have the same R/R! 6 wires, its just mounted other way I bet u r scoot has it mounted with both bolt holes therefor putting wires at the top! I zoomed in and counted those wires on the diagram and theres six i have that same diagram that came with my scoot. Mine is mounted like Cruiser's with one bolt u can see his second bolt hole is empty too. |
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Post by fairweasel2323 on May 13, 2012 3:11:15 GMT -6
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Post by fairweasel2323 on May 13, 2012 3:09:26 GMT -6
couldnt get a good look right now still dark but will get a pic of my R/R up to compare to Cruisers from what I could see it did look familiar but dark and my body panels are still on.
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Post by fairweasel2323 on May 13, 2012 2:27:01 GMT -6
The 3 greens are just ground wires and they used the bolt on the R/R to make connection to the frame and ground them. Most of the time green wires bolt up with the black negative battery cable on the frame. You asked why it started charging when you hooked up the remote? You said you found unconnected wires and it was the R/R? Now I'm confused? LOL Again read my last post and get those pictures and answers and we'll figure it out. Now "if" this scooter has what is called the remote/alarm system you should have a little push button remote on the key chain. If you do have a remote and the scooter will run with the battery disconnected here is what is happening. The remote system is simply a key switch that is operated remotely by push button sending unit. It works just like your key switch which you turn on or off manually with a key. Now if the remote is by chance in the key on position then when you hit the start button the scooter will run.......BUT as you said it will not stop the engine with the key then, why? you still have the remote key switch on that's why. You have to use the kill switch on the handle bar. The kill switch does one thing, ground out the CDI where the engine will not run. Think of it like this, put two manual key switches together on the same lines. Turn them both on and start the scooter. If you turn one off the scooter will still run because you still have one switch on feeding power down the lines. We'll wait on the pictures and answers on the wires. U have same scoot as me if u have the YY250T-2, I have the 244cc motor the Honda Clone, not the Lihani. the pic Cruiser posted is a YY250T not ur scooter , but the same motor. Theres no remote/alarm option for the YY250T-2 depending on year it is should have Radio/MP3 player? My YY250T-2 is also marked MC-13-250 thats the Roketa Model same scoot mine has both markings, YY250T-2 and MC-13-250. The YY250T is the same as the MC-54-250. I will post a couple pics and wait to see ur pics and should be able to figure this out. |
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Post by fairweasel2323 on May 11, 2012 7:44:45 GMT -6
I have had great ordering experience from powersportsmax.com!! there or Scrappy is where I have gotten all my parts oh and bike Bandit. IMO I would order the one from powersporstsmax.
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Post by fairweasel2323 on May 10, 2012 11:02:55 GMT -6
Had a member on other forum tell me he just uses the side drain plug instead of bottom? I was worried it wouldnt get all the bad oil out but i have had so much trouble with the bottom drain bolt flat spot on washer had to re-drain oil and flip washer over to fix that leak it was a dripping leak my leak now is just seep heres pic of my finger with little oil film from sitting a week!  The bottom drain bolt washer looks flattened on left side (closest to rear tire) and thats where I am getting film on finger  Think i will just drain oil from the side plug alot easier and with the problems I have with the bottom! I am always waiting longer then I should to change oil never had problem with the side plug so I would change more often and only have to mess with one bolt! as long as I would get most of the old oil drained from side.  He even said u can drain from the dipstick and get most of the oil by leaning it! |
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Post by fairweasel2323 on May 9, 2012 17:30:56 GMT -6
thanks for ur advice on all 3 forums! I like the magnetic I see ur online on all 3 just like I am!  |
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Post by fairweasel2323 on May 9, 2012 13:17:27 GMT -6
Well last oil change I may have over tightened my oil drain plug. I had a small leak and thought it needed to be tightened more, well I did and bolt started to slip/strip, I immediately stopped! Not wanting to cause more damage! Leak never got worst, still seeps not really leaks never have seen a oil spot on ground. I have read somewhere that Honda Helix parts are universal? So was going to order a new bolt and washer from bikebandit.com OEM Honda Parts for 2007 Honda Helix CN250. Would that work?
I am thinking since I stopped so soon once I felt it slip/strip that it didn't do much damage, maybe a couple threads on drain bolt? I was worried about it being torqued too tight and with heat theres expansion, so not wanting to crack case I loosened up the drain bolt and re snugged it up with no problem, but still same amount of seep/leak as before. I am hoping a good quality OEM Bolt and washer will help? If not might have to look into something else permatex, thread tape...etc. Does anyone know for sure that a drain plug from 07 Honda Helix will work before I waste money ordering it?
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Post by fairweasel2323 on May 6, 2012 4:13:00 GMT -6
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