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JR, it's a 5-wire R/R, not 6. I did check that much out today when we had the panels off. And just to be clearer, because so much is unclear, I mean there are five wires in the main multipin going into the R/R. However, there are also three other wires attached to the casing of the R/R.

It's clear we are going to have to shoot a lot of pics of this thing next time we disassemble, and I am just kicking myself for not already having done it. By now you would have probably identified more clearly what components are on his scoot. I shoot pics for my LH300 any time I am in disassembly mode.

I too want to know why I showed high 13's when I strapped the multimeter over the wires going to the battery terminals once his engine was running without the battery connected. I did not see you explain the reason for that. I mean how could the system not be charging right if 1) it's running on its own with out the battery connected, 2) if the leads show 13.8+ volts? I interpreted that as the system charging properly. Maybe that's wrong.

It also just so happens that he has the exact battery I purchased, but have not used permanently yet on my bike, (I believe I still have the OEM battery on board my LH300)- because that new battery never held charge for me. It died the day after I had charged it fully with the BTJR. Wouldn't even turn my engine over after just a day of sitting on the bike after a full, solid green charge on the BTJR. And so I am wondering now if all along it wasn't just his battery dying, and on the way out. And we are talking about a PowerSonic PTZ10S, to be exact.

I will not be ordering that battery ever again, and I just ordered a newer AGM technology 10AH, 140 CCA battery. To be exact, this one:
.dealsourcedirect.com/ubc43020.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.dealsourcedirect.com/ubc43020.html
I will be towing a whopping 19AH between two batteries on my LH300. Yeah, I am serious about not getting stuck 100 miles or more away from home. ;D
Posted so just in case you need a new battery, Dave, there's the link. Best in stock price I found.

;D

What is it with you and sourcing parts direct from China?

Item location: HONG KONG, Hong Kong

That thermostat you found last time for Daven68 was in Hong Kong too. Now if you want to wait a month to get a part, good luck... I prefer to deal nearly always with US vendors. But yeah, them's are the ones. The ceramics are better than the plastic ones, too. They are available from any number of vendors in the states. Ebay's got a filter for USA only.

I should start making up high quality wiring harnesses with the ceramics, all ready to just plug and go for the LH300's/Diamo300's and start selling them on ebay to help out the scooter owners who want to do this mod.

Thanks a million, JR for all your help! ScootMaster Supreme.

In addition to the basic circuit and the instructions you provided, there are some other things people should know to make this easier:

1) There are only two wires in the stock wiring supplied to each bulb. Therefore to achieve this setup, and do it right, a new pin with the right quick disconnect terminal should be added to the multipin connector on each bulb, along with a new wire, to achieve the hot taps to make both bulbs light up.

2) I would suggest the wiring to be cut be done down below in the front where the main multipin feeds the two light bulbs. And to do that, it is easiest to pull off the entire front end. That point provides also a place to mount the relay, which can be mounted by screw or wiretie to the metal subframe, which you will see once the front fairing is off.

3) While the relay and new 14 gauge wire support the additional load, there is still the problem of the max load on the charging system. Jim at Sunright felt that the system could probably handle a 70 watt draw with the double beam stock bulbs, but he had real concerns about trying to use 55/60w bulbs and then doubling up bulbs on those too- which is what I had done. 120 watts in double high beam is clearly too much, and he felt that it would shorten the lifespan of the R/R and stator, not to mention discharge the battery. For that reason I have reinstalled my stock 35W bulbs for now, but kept the double on wiring, so I am still getting both bulbs on at once in both high and low beams.

4) My end goal after all this is to achieve a double bulb on situation, except using bi-xenon 35W bulbs. The problem there is they require ballasts, and I am not sure I can just jump the pins the same way as with the halogens, because the xenons require a huge amp draw to start up, and then they normalize down to about a 3 amp draw each. That huge startup requirement I have a feeling is going to be a problem, and at a minimum a master kill switch I feel would be needed, so that the lights are not on when starting up the motor. I have no clear answers at the moment if a double on bi-xenon setup is even possible at all. And I also have the feeling that if it is possible, it will take a master kill switch for each bulb, and they will be needed to be fired up one at a time, AFTER the motor has started.

Stick with it, linhai300! This sounds to me like on your particular bike, the cruddy Chinese coolant problem bit you a bit harder than most. When I went to drain the coolant out of my LH300 after 5000 miles, it was near black. I flushed the system out until the water ran clear, replaced the thermostat, and replaced the coolant with 50/50 Dex cool. But I never did have the overheating issues you had. I don't have any trouble with the gas gauge either.

But yeah, get the kinks worked out because you are going to love that thing when all is right. And get to know Jim at Sunright, the distributor. Super great guy, patient, and very knowledgeable.

JR, could you possibly explain what the "GY6" designation actually means? That is another source of confusion for me.