Linhai 300 Scooter Headlight conversion By JR (Read 2,166 times)

[JR]

Recently I was contacted by a member here Scootforfun about converting the Linhai 300 head light system from the current one headlight on each side at a time to both the lights on at the same time and also being able to have them both work together in the lo and hi beam settings.

We discussed several ideas and I remembered a friend down in Georgia that did this and talked to him about the pros and cons of doing this and I drew up a wiring diagram for this conversion.

Linhai Headlight Conversion

There are other ways to do it if you like and also by using a relay one can use higher wattage bulbs and with the relay you take the load off of the dimmer switch which my friend said he burnt up after a bit when using 55W bulbs, it just wouldn't carry the load.

One could use another relay and run the new heavy feed wire to the battery and just tie it in with the key switch to activate with the key on.

also to help insure the charging system will keep up I highly recommend changing out the other bulbs to LED's which will help a lot on keeping the battery up,

Hope this helps!

JR

[scootforfun]

Thanks a million, JR for all your help! ScootMaster Supreme.

In addition to the basic circuit and the instructions you provided, there are some other things people should know to make this easier:

1) There are only two wires in the stock wiring supplied to each bulb. Therefore to achieve this setup, and do it right, a new pin with the right quick disconnect terminal should be added to the multipin connector on each bulb, along with a new wire, to achieve the hot taps to make both bulbs light up.

2) I would suggest the wiring to be cut be done down below in the front where the main multipin feeds the two light bulbs. And to do that, it is easiest to pull off the entire front end. That point provides also a place to mount the relay, which can be mounted by screw or wiretie to the metal subframe, which you will see once the front fairing is off.

3) While the relay and new 14 gauge wire support the additional load, there is still the problem of the max load on the charging system. Jim at Sunright felt that the system could probably handle a 70 watt draw with the double beam stock bulbs, but he had real concerns about trying to use 55/60w bulbs and then doubling up bulbs on those too- which is what I had done. 120 watts in double high beam is clearly too much, and he felt that it would shorten the lifespan of the R/R and stator, not to mention discharge the battery. For that reason I have reinstalled my stock 35W bulbs for now, but kept the double on wiring, so I am still getting both bulbs on at once in both high and low beams.

4) My end goal after all this is to achieve a double bulb on situation, except using bi-xenon 35W bulbs. The problem there is they require ballasts, and I am not sure I can just jump the pins the same way as with the halogens, because the xenons require a huge amp draw to start up, and then they normalize down to about a 3 amp draw each. That huge startup requirement I have a feeling is going to be a problem, and at a minimum a master kill switch I feel would be needed, so that the lights are not on when starting up the motor. I have no clear answers at the moment if a double on bi-xenon setup is even possible at all. And I also have the feeling that if it is possible, it will take a master kill switch for each bulb, and they will be needed to be fired up one at a time, AFTER the motor has started.

[JR]

Glad you posted Scootfor fun. I wasn't sure about the two wires running to each bulb, the diagram indicates this and says the bulbs are H4 so I'll modifiy the instructions to include purchase a 3-prong H4 plug to accomplish the wiring set up.

Like I mentioned I have a friend that has been running this system with 55W bulbs for about two years and his stator is doing fine.

He changed the entire scooter out to LED's including the dash light bulbs. By getting rid of the high watt 1157 tail light bulbs and going to LED's one can gain nearly 1 full volt on the charging system alone.

I disagree with Jim on the R/R if the scooter has a good battery and this sytem is converted to properly carry the load of the bulbs then the R/R will not do any extra work to speak of.

After thinking about that I think I will re-draw the diagram to include one more 4-pin relay and put the 14ga wire through it straight to the battery which will help with the load on a heavier wattage bulb. You must have another relay to go to the battery so when the key is off the lights will be too.

JR

[scootforfun]

Two 3-prong H4 plugs are already present with the stock wiring that connect to the bulbs. The problem is that there are only two wires present in each of those plugs, and H4 bulbs have three pins. And that is why I am saying that a new pin should be added- or, alternatively, I suppose you could just purchase two new H4 plugs with short pigtails already wired, and then deal with splicing the hots. That would certainly make life easier, instead of trying to find just a single pin that will go into the H4 connectors.

I just got back and bought a 20 amp toggle switch, and am going to interrupt my low beam circuit so I can start the bike without the lights on. I don't like that much unneeded draw on the battery at startup, when you need those cranking amps for the starter.

[bhinch]

Great info....I installed the Bi-Xenon 35 watt HID's in my scoot almost a year ago and they work great....super slim ballast...H4...9003....5000w....Hi/Lo.....also used LED's on the turn..and brake lights.....very nice to have bright lights for going to work...........thanks for all the info.....keep scooting...

[JR]

May 4, 2012 15:49:07 GMT -6 scootforfun said:

Two 3-prong H4 plugs are already present with the stock wiring that connect to the bulbs. The problem is that there are only two wires present in each of those plugs, and H4 bulbs have three pins. And that is why I am saying that a new pin should be added- or, alternatively, I suppose you could just purchase two new H4 plugs with short pigtails already wired, and then deal with splicing the hots. That would certainly make life easier, instead of trying to find just a single pin that will go into the H4 connectors.

I just got back and bought a 20 amp toggle switch, and am going to interrupt my low beam circuit so I can start the bike without the lights on. I don't like that much unneeded draw on the battery at startup, when you need those cranking amps for the starter.

Yep just like these:

.ebay.com/itm/2-x-H4-9003-Ceramic-Wire-Wiring-Car-Head-Light-Bulb-Harness-Socket-Plug-Housing-/290654233547?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ac57a3cb&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">.ebay.com/itm/2-x-H4-9003-Ceramic-Wire-Wiring-Car-Head-Light-Bulb-Harness-Socket-Plug-Housing-/290654233547?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43ac57a3cb&vxp=mtr

Lot easier, faster and these will take the heat.

JR

[scootforfun]

;D

What is it with you and sourcing parts direct from China?

Item location: HONG KONG, Hong Kong

That thermostat you found last time for Daven68 was in Hong Kong too. Now if you want to wait a month to get a part, good luck... I prefer to deal nearly always with US vendors. But yeah, them's are the ones. The ceramics are better than the plastic ones, too. They are available from any number of vendors in the states. Ebay's got a filter for USA only.

I should start making up high quality wiring harnesses with the ceramics, all ready to just plug and go for the LH300's/Diamo300's and start selling them on ebay to help out the scooter owners who want to do this mod.

[justbuggin2]

i would hook the 12volt power from the battery and not have it go though the switch that way the current will not be to much for the ing. switch

[JR]

May 4, 2012 21:27:13 GMT -6 scootforfun said:

;D

What is it with you and sourcing parts direct from China?

Item location: HONG KONG, Hong Kong

That thermostat you found last time for Daven68 was in Hong Kong too. Now if you want to wait a month to get a part, good luck... I prefer to deal nearly always with US vendors. But yeah, them's are the ones. The ceramics are better than the plastic ones, too. They are available from any number of vendors in the states. Ebay's got a filter for USA only.

I should start making up high quality wiring harnesses with the ceramics, all ready to just plug and go for the LH300's/Diamo300's and start selling them on ebay to help out the scooter owners who want to do this mod.

I use US vendors to buy the China stuff! ;D I just use ebay a lot for the quick and easy pictures!

JR

[JR]

May 4, 2012 22:14:52 GMT -6 justbuggin2 said:

i would hook the 12volt power from the battery and not have it go though the switch that way the current will not be to much for the ing. switch

I mentioned that it would be easy with another relay.

JR