New scooter died & won't idle - again. By HotStuff2 (Read 19,785 times)

[terrilee]

[HotStuff2]

I can't wait for the new carb to get here. I definitely want to tune the engine a bit.

Thanks for everything!

[alleyoop]

Good for you, and the scoots are pretty easy to work on really they are not complicated. You just have to know what causes what and either fix the problem or buy a new part for it.
Some things are a little harder to diagnose because some things can be caused by multiple things and or combination of things. But parts for the scoots are cheap so buying on line for cheap and doing the work yourself saves you a lot of money. Shops charge quite a bit per hour for labor and they also bump up the parts cost on you as well.
But you can get your scoot problems solved on the Forum, just tell you tale of WOE and a lot of use will chime in and help.
Alleyoop

[HotStuff2]

Yep, George's carb replacement (with a stock carb) cost him $89 + tax. Crazy!

[terrilee]

and yours cost you anxiety, nerves etc

but as i told you

you want REAL help
this is the place
that other place is not very good
good for chit chat

but now you know to just slow down
describe what is going wrong, take pics.

one GREAT thing for you is you have a scoot store close by.

[HotStuff2]

True. Don't forget frustration!

But knowing what the problem is, and how to fix it myself, is priceless.

[terrilee]

yea i can now test all the electrical systems LMSAO

[HotStuff2]

Alleyoop: question on the new carb.

I was reading the installation instructions in the tech section, and it says:

"Loosen the hose clamp attaching the carburetor to the manifold and remove the carburetor. Next, remove the two nuts attaching the manifold to the cylinder head and remove the old manifold. If your old carburetor has a vacuum line, remove this. The Keihin CVK does not require this. You will run a single vacuum line from the fuel petcock to the new intake manifold."

Now, I don't have a fuel petcock, but I believe it's talking about the hose that goes from the (remember the pic you posted?) right side of the intake manifold to the carb. If that's correct, I only need a intake manifold that has the one vacuum line, on the left, correct? Meaning I can order one of the higher-quality replacements, no?

I've also seen at least 4-5 different aftermarket intake manifolds. Any recommendations on which one to go with?

[alleyoop]

Do Not bother with the InStructions whereever you found them THAT IS BULLSHIT for what your going to do.

Leave the Manifold as IS DO NOT TAKE IT OFF, Just Loosen the Clamps holding the Carb and of course the Throttle cable. Now a little trick is ONLY LOOSEN ONE OF THE NUTS on Bracket Holding the Throttle cable AND THE NUT is the TOP ONE.
Then You PUSH the cable DOWN turn the CABLE CONTROLLER WITH YOUR hand to get the Lead Ball off the Throttle Controller and WHOLA.
On your Carb the way its connected All you need to do is Disconnect TWO hoses, 1 the fuel line 2 the ACV valve on the right side and you have the carb in your hands.
YOU DO NOT NEED ANOTHER INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAVE THE ONE YOU HAVE ON IT IS FINE.
Alleyoop

[HotStuff2]

Well, I figured out why the bike was ticking so loudly. Guess I didn't tighten the exhaust well enough, and it was VERY loose - like .1 or so. I tightened everything up, and set the intake to .0015, and the exhaust to a tight .002, and it sounds great.

alleyoop, what about if/when I have to replace the stock rubber intake manifold? (Y'know, from age/cracking/etc.) I know the one I have is fine for now, but when it comes time to replace it, I'd rather go with a higher-quality one.

BTW, this is where I found the instructions I mentioned: thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=carb&action=display&thread=76

[alleyoop]

Those instructions are not for yours and you are not replaceing everything you are just swapping out your old carb with a new one and reconnecting TWO hoses the SAME way as they were connected to the old carb.
Alleyoop

[HotStuff2]

Got it. Now, more questions:

1. I've been reading about others removing the EGR. I think I may do that; I'll need to fashion the block-off plate(s), though (not terribly difficult.) Any cons to removing the EGR?

2. The stock carb is a 26mm (24mm?), and this Keihin is a 30mm. Does that mean the jets are larger than the stock? The reason I ask is that I'd like to dump the stock air intake and go with a K&N RC-1070 (or something similar) cone filter, both for looks, sound, and the additional air. I've read that you must re-jet when going with the cone filter over a stock airbox, and that you should "go up at least 2 sizes". Seems to me that if the new Keihin carb is ~6mm larger, it probably has larger jets already, no?

3. Still wondering about the higher-quality replacement intake manifold. IIRC, the double nipples on it, one of them is for the EGR - and if I remove that from the engine, I no longer need a double-nipple intake manifold, thus one of the higher-quality aftermarket ones would work. Not planning on replacing my intake manifold right away, but expecting it to crack and whatnot from the heat (engine + Florida summer), thus necessitating a replacement at some point.

4. Lastly, I think I will go with an NCY CDI, which should remove the rev limiter (if there is one on my 150cc), and advance the spark timing. Are there different versions of the NCY? I've seen several places selling them, with vastly different prices (anywhere from $19.99, $29.99, $34.99, up to $69.99!)