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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 26, 2012 5:24:21 GMT -6
So I found nice big cracks in the drive face, so I replaced the entire variator with a stock one. And replaced the belt with an 842-20-30 Gates powerlink.
And the bike won't break 30mph. After watching it run on the centerstand with the belt cover off, the belt flops at 5000rpm.
I am now thinking the clutch? It's especially bad when I try to climb any hill or incline, dropping to no more than 15mph.
Is there a way to run the engine without the belt and variator? I'd like to find a way to do this so I could determine if its the engine or CVT causing this.
Of my four gy6 150 bikes, only this one is doing this crap. The bike has a top speed of 15 on hills and 30 on flats.
If this was a car I would swear it was a timing problem. But there is no timing adjustment that I know of.
So, I've replaced the carb. The plug is nice light brown. I've swapped my coil and CDI with known good ones, changed the variator and belt.
What is left to check out besides clutch?
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 20, 2012 5:38:01 GMT -6
Lol I hope it's this belt. I'm running out of things to check
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 20, 2012 5:36:50 GMT -6
Also Alleyoop you were correct, new carb (er well not exactly new) is set considerably leaner, after 45 mins of running on the new carb after setting mixture plug is nice light coffee color with no soot.
Previous carb was set with needle two notches lower than the current one (not by me).
The dirtbiker neighbors seem to think my plug looks good "Pretty damn close" says the Old Man.
Now I have no bogging or gas stink from exhaust, but I still have the stumble
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 20, 2012 5:30:02 GMT -6
You raise the clip to lean and lower the clip to richen. Just for curiousity sake do you have the OEM CDI? Reason I ask is there have been occasions that people with an unlimited CDI have had these issues? It has something to do with the firing getting to a certain what they say threshold and the engine and CDI aren't working together? Does that make any sense? I rem,ember some time back this very problem happened to a fellow, he cahnged back to the OEM CDI and it ran like a scalded ape! I didn't see where you changed the the OEM filter? Open exhaust, more fuel, = needs more air. JR I changed to a stock style muffler, not a performance type, so I still run about the same back pressure. I'll post a pic later when it stops raining.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 20, 2012 5:25:41 GMT -6
The carb has been adjusted as follows: mixture screw was seated, then turned counterclockwise until the highest rpms,then set 1/8 clockwise. I don't think the carb is the problem.
I thought it may be the CDI, but after swapping my Hoca with a known good one, still had the same problem. Did the same with the coil.
Running out of ideas, I took off the CVT (lots of belt dust and chunks of belt in there) and kickstart and then left the kickstart off and put the CVT back together and started the bike. The belt flopped like crazy at 5000 rpm (where my stumble occurs). I am thinking the belt might just be the problem. I ordered a new Gates Powerlink belt from Napa that will be here today.
I also removed my carb and freshly cleaned and rebuilt my spare carb and put that on. The carb made no difference.
Other than having a shredded belt, the rest of the CVT looked good after I cleaned it. No flat spots on the rollers or heat checking or glazing on the clutch bell or shoes, no broken springs.
The belt was a Zhianping? Could a screwed belt cause stumbling if it's flopping around? Isn't 700 miles a bit soon for a belt to fail?
And lastly, my brother suggested running the bike sans belt to see if it was truly the CVT and not an engine problem. I told him that would cause my rollers to go flying out of the variator. Is it okay to run the engine without a variator? I would guess not as it's probably counterbalanced by the CVT.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 19, 2012 9:10:12 GMT -6
Just checked the valves they're spot on. Checked vacuum with propane and carb cleaner, no leaks.
Just checked plug and it is sooty, so I'm thinking rich. But this is set to 2.75 turns counter clockwise, which should be pretty right on.
Which way do I move the needle to lean the mixture? It's currently at the second lowest of five notches.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 19, 2012 5:14:47 GMT -6
So on my 2011 Baccio vx150 I have had a stumble (misfire?) Between 3000 and 5500 rpms.
So far I have done the following to no avail:
Changed carb to Keinhin 24mm w 105 main
Changed petcock to high flow Miniki vacuum pump
Changed CDI to Hoca unlimited
Changed coil to Hoca
Removed PAIR and blocked off exhaust port (and confirmed no leaks)
Changed exhaust to scrappydogscooters one piece can.
Changed plug to c7hsa NGK R
Adjusted valves to .004 intake .005 exhaust.
For one day it ran excellent, no stumble. But then after a 20 mile ride the stumbling returned. And then has become worse progressively to the point where I am only getting 30mph on flats, all the while bogging /stumbling.
This problem has been present since uncrating. It's a real head scratched as none of my other bikes have done this. Everything seems properly adjusted.
My PAIR did fail, causing lots and lots of backfiring around 400 to 450 miles. I am wondering if this may be a damaged exhaust valve?
Compression is spot on, no smoke or excessive oil venting.
What could this be? Why would this problem still be present after changing the entire fuel system and ignition system? Is this indication of inner engine valve damage?
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 13, 2012 5:54:33 GMT -6
Okay point taken.
And if your 1949 had a misfire, first thing I'd do is spray a mist of water over the plug wires ( poor mans power balance). Then I'd check out the distributor, make sure there's no cracked cap, I'd make sure the point gap was correct, and if that didn't do it, I break out the timing light (provided it has timing marks) or attach a vacuum gage to the intake and time to vacuum pressure. If we still had a problem I'd hook up the oscillascope.
In CT the only people allowed to charge for motorcycle work is trained motorcycle technicians. Technically there isn't a way to legally work on scooters here. (Not for profit anyway)
There are 5 or 6 shops that will fix non-Chinese scooters, but zero in CT that will work on Chinese scooters.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 10, 2012 5:13:39 GMT -6
You know, hard as it is to believe there are different laws in different places.
I was unaware that's how things work in Louisiana. That's not how it works in my state.
If Sugarscoot never speaks to me, then no harm done. She's quick to throw personal insults around and swear at people, people who call others "twit" and "negative asshole" don't really have much grounds to call others negative, especially when I'm not.
I'm fine with her replacing carbs to fix tight valves, I mean changing unrelated parts to fix a problem is cool I suppose.
And no I never charged to fix someones car before I was a licensed technician, because in CT that is a crime.
Yes you learn by asking questions and by doing, no argument there.
But if this is how stuff goes in the south, I'm happy to be a Yankee.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 8, 2012 6:10:27 GMT -6
I understand that you wish to help. But you shouldn't be charging beyond expenses.
And also you charged this guy for a carb, and it was tight valves that was problem. So you pretty much replaced his carb when the carb wasn't the problem, which, is a punk move.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 8, 2012 5:51:51 GMT -6
So you charged 86 plus 130 for a combined total of 100 worth of parts? That's called making a profit. You did profit. Not much of a profit, but still profit none the less.
It's not cool to misrepresent your skill. It's not cool to make a profit from misrepresenting yourself.
It basically shits in the face to those of us who pay union dues and went to school to learn how to be technicians (not that anyone can go to tech schools for scooter repair).
I am a trained automotive technician. Sure I'll charge to fix your car. But I'm not a trained scooter mechanic, so it's unethical to represent myself as a trained scooter mechanic, so I can't charge to fix scooters. And neither should you.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 8, 2012 5:43:24 GMT -6
As a licensed Automotive Technician, what you are doing is unethical. It's not cool to charge to repair something you are not trained to repair.
Good job fixing it I guess. My problem is that you are not trained technicians. As I have been told many times, a technician should never misrepresent their areas of expertise.
Plus it's a bit different in my state. What you did repairing that scooter would be considered a crime here, one that could cost you your shop license.
As for your comment that I am rude : I'm not the one calling people asshole. That would be you.
As to repairing scooters when you are not a scooter technician : yeah it's cool to help. It's not cool to charge if you are not properly trained.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 6, 2012 5:59:45 GMT -6
Can I ask why you are charging to repair scooters when you clearly are not scooter mechanics?
Carbs are pretty basic knowledge that you should have pretty much memorized and automatic before you go into business as a scooter mechanic. The fact that you do not know how to adjust or diagnose carburetors is proof that you should not be repairing customer bikes.
I, along with many other posters are rather versed in carb theory, and repair. It would behest you to research and learn basic carb theory.
Since you represent a business that claims to understand and repair scooters, when you clearly do not, I feel that aiding you in a for-profit repair procedure would be unethical.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 4, 2012 5:38:49 GMT -6
That is indeed failure. Always do your pre ride saftey check!
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jul 3, 2012 5:27:31 GMT -6
Yep. If it ain't broke, as the saying goes. I always wondered what the PAIR was for. And after removing mine, then taking a 30 mile ride with two riders from my club (Grey Market Raiders, shameless promotion ) to my sister's house to uncrate and PDI her new Jonway, I finally figured it out: The PAIR is the equivalent of an AIR injection system on a car. It supplies fresh air directly to the exhaust port so enough air is present to active a catalytic converter. Her bike has full California emmisions. It has a cat in the muffler, an EGR, a fuel vapor reclamation canister and of course a PAIR. My Baccio only had a PAIR, no cat, egr or canister. The only logical reason I could see for this is to "cheat" a gaschromatigraph. Buy having air pumped into my exhaust, it would test as being cleaner than it really is. But sans egr and catalytic converter, this is a ticking time bomb of a system. With solely a PAIR, it's fine till the solenoid frags, but if does you will now have exhaust ignition, which can potentially ruin your inner engine (most notably valves or piston!). So in conclusion, I do not advocate removing the PAIR if you also have an EGR and a cat. But if all you have is a PAIR, then toss it (if local laws permit) and save yourself the risk of possible bricked engine.
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