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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 9, 2012 17:33:51 GMT -6
Update: After 25 miles on 6g weights and a Gates Powerlink belt, the contraspring broke. Lol. I suppose the contraspring was the problem. Luckily all that was damaged was the spring itself. But better safe than sorry, ordered new clutch and bell. So I'll try again in 3 to 5 business days  But man are the 6g rollers sweet for hilly areas! |
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 9, 2012 5:23:36 GMT -6
If you wanna get fancy with science, then go to a professional autoparts store like Napa or Car Quest (not a DIY parts store like Autozone or Pep Boys) and get some U.V. leak tracer. Put the tracer in the engine oil and run it for 15 minutes.
Then take your bike to a dark area, or wait till night, and shine a black light on the engine. The tracer dye will glow blue, making finding the leak easy.
This method, is overkill. But it's dead accurate. After using tracer dye you MUST replace the oil.
These bikes use 750 ml exactly of oil. Too much oil, and the excess blows. out of the crankcase vent.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 9, 2012 5:12:51 GMT -6
Well, you shouldn't be leaking period. Yes I will agree that since it is of a SLIGHTLY lower viscosity, synthetic can possibly leak in a situation where organic oil might not.
But a leak is a leak. If you observed a leak while running synthetic, then it's probably still going to leak after an oil change to organic oil.
No leak is good! These engines actually generate a fair amount of oil pressure, so any oil leak is inevitability going to become worse, and fairly rapidly too boot.
There's not much good speculating where the leak is. You gotta find it with 100% certainty and fix it.
A good method is to use a garden hose and some "Foamy Engine Brite". Apply the degreaser and rinse off with moderate pressure water. (Do not spray wiring connectors, coil or carb with direct streams of water, I usually put a sandwich bag and a rubber band over the carb and coil). Then blow dry with compressed air, or let dry completely.
Then put the bike on the centerstand and let it run for ten minutes. You should have NP finding the leak.
Good luck!
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 8, 2012 5:14:07 GMT -6
Looking good Walter!
Love the seas of chrome!
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 8, 2012 5:04:57 GMT -6
Cool Hand Luke! Great scene! But I don't trust that harlot to wash my precious scoot! She got more water on herself than the car!  |
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 6, 2012 5:27:02 GMT -6
Technically a Kymco is a Taiwanese company. Yes some of their bikes are made in China.
But, Kymco are leagues better than China Bombs. My Kymco Yup 50 2t has 10,000 miles on it and still runs like a beast!
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 6, 2012 5:22:30 GMT -6
That's Chinese.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 5, 2012 4:31:36 GMT -6
15w40 or 10w40 is the best viscosity. There isn't any evidence that a particular brand makes much difference. I like Mobil 1 4t 10w40 fully synthetic motorcycle oil, but only because I used that brand in my motorcycles. There is no reason to spend the money on motorcycle oil because our scoots don't have wet clutches and don't need the extra additives. Walmart oil is probably fine.
I've heard good things about Royal Purple as well.
I'm getting ahead of myself. Your bike is just breaking in, so dino-oil is probably best for the first 800 miles.
Remember that synthetic oil is thinner than dino oil when it warms up, so it has a higher potential for leaks.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 5, 2012 4:23:08 GMT -6
Good move Bullet. If you have a broken spring then it makes good sense to replace the belt as well. Along with the roller weights.
Man that sucks tho. Ah well, at least these cvts are easy peasy to change.
Good luck Bullet! Please post your results!
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No spark
by: blueboy5000 - Jun 5, 2012 4:18:42 GMT -6
Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 5, 2012 4:18:42 GMT -6
The green wire, 9 times out of 10 on gy6 harnesses is ground. So three greens spliced together is probably fine.
Did you use 1) a test light to verify that you have current going to CDI with key on? 2) a voltmeter to check amount of current?
Did you use a voltmeter to test primary and secondary circuits of coil?
The first step it to make sure power gets to your coil and CDI.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 4, 2012 6:22:38 GMT -6
There is another site?  ?? Kinda. But that sight is more about bragging and slamming noobs. They focus more on excessive mods than the pure enjoyment of scooting. |
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 3, 2012 15:10:30 GMT -6
The problem was a no-name belt. The belt was so worn it had become shredded on the drive plate side, and covered the CVT with black powdered belt remnant.
Belt dust had clogged the variator slides causing the rollers to be stuck, and also to develop flat spots an two of the rollers.
Disassembled the CVT and gave it good cleaning in the parts washer. The clutch works fine now.
Ordered some new 6g weights/rollers and a Gates Powerlink belt.
This surprised me as the bike only has 1400 miles. But the belt had Chinese writing on it, and no English anywhere, I would not be surprised if it was a poor quality belt.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 3, 2012 4:19:42 GMT -6
So yesterday I was out whipping my wife's 2008 Roketa Bahama (handsome boy) around, and ran into a new problem I've yet to see. The clutch appears to be staying engaged when the bike stops.
I'm taking the CVT apart today, so I'm pretty sure once I get the clutch off, it will be dead obvious what's wrong. (Whatever it may be).
My question is: What would cause the clutch to stay engaged?
I've never seen this particular problem in the wild, but I have installed clutches and variators many times. I speculate the problem is most likely a broken clutch spring.
Thoughts?
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 2, 2012 6:49:11 GMT -6
It's rather common for these mufflers to become loose inside their aluminium covers simply from age and poor design.
It's so typical that we've begun calling it "gy6 vibrofarting". Usually you hear the greatest amount of farty buzzing at around 35 to 45 mph. It's not an actual problem per sey so long as your exhaust is tight, but it will cause annoying "farting "and will lead to future loosening of the flange, mounting and exhuast studs and bolts.
If your can has bolts holding the can to the pipe, throw some red loc-tite on those bad boys and torque 'em up. It may help.
To be honest, usually a new exhaust is the cure.
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Post by blueboy5000 on Jun 2, 2012 6:39:02 GMT -6
Hi Terri! Good to see another familiar face on this board!
Sounds to me like you have a loose ground. Time once again to pop off the tupperware and check connectors.
Good luck!
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