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Post by OMN on Oct 1, 2012 17:32:45 GMT -6
How does it idle, mine had a rough idle and stalling at stop signs, Turned out to be a my main spring in my clutch was weak, (it had my clutch still egauged in low speeds and stops) replaced it, problem solved. for the past several weeks, it's been running like a champ. last week when i drove it, it seemed like maybe it wasn't getting enough fuel when i came to a stop, but it didn't stumble or die. now it's acting fuel-starved when i slow down. it's worse when i stop suddenly, especially up an incline. at first i sure thought it was the exhaust valve, but it's at .006". after the motor cools, we'll check the intake as well just to be sure. would the exhaust valve being slightly too loose cause this same problem? ps, i also checked the a/f mixture last nite and put it at 2.5 turns out. no change. thanks, all! we're about to take it apart again and see what we can find. ;-P |
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Post by OMN on Sept 30, 2012 21:09:32 GMT -6
ok, running into a problem. roketa 250b is hard to start after sitting a couple days. always has been.
also it used to die when slowing down. turns out the exhaust valve was tight, so we loosened it to .005 and it worked great for a couple months.
now we have the same "dying at a stop" problem. checked the exhaust valve tonite, and it's still good: .006"
took off fuel line from LH side of carb. it pulses out gas when cranking.
A/F mixture screw was at 2 turns; re-set to 2.5 turns out.
still dies when slowing down. still hard to start.
i replaced the enrichener when we originally had issues. i don't think it's working but i'll check that this week. but that shouldn't mess with operation once the engine is warm, right?
what else should i check, since it doesn't seem to be the exhaust valve. would a too-tight intake valve cause the same symptoms?
thanks, all
ron
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Post by OMN on Sept 6, 2012 20:14:32 GMT -6
if no head nor tail lites, the first suspect is the 15A fuse by the battery. does the horn work?
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Post by OMN on Aug 28, 2012 9:33:49 GMT -6
hey RP, yes we did a full PDI. lots of fun! the brake "fluid" had turned into jelly, which was fun to clean out.
i'm going to probably just order some new brake pads and see if that does it. in the meantime, will probably grind down the offending edges and see what happens.
thanks, all
ron
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Post by OMN on Aug 25, 2012 7:34:32 GMT -6
well, looks like it's the front brake. calipers have a certain amount of play, so i found that i can rotate the whole caliper just a touch and eliminate the problem. my pads aren't worn out, but they are worn funny - as if the caliper is slightly misaligned with the rotor, so the pads are worn more diagonally.
other than shims, is there a way to adjust/align the caliper and rotor?
in the meantime, i tried prodigit's suggestion of rolling back with the brakes on and it seemed to help a little.
thanks as always! you guys are awesome. i pointed my local cycle shop owner to your site for help, too.
OMN/Ron
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Post by OMN on Aug 22, 2012 16:49:31 GMT -6
thanks for the ideas, fellas. i'll check by pulling the brake caliper and the speedo cable and post the results here for posterity.
cheers!
ron
;-P
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Post by OMN on Aug 20, 2012 13:31:37 GMT -6
yeah, i put it on the center stand and had my son sit on it to lift the front. it's definitely the front wheel, and only when i rotate it backward
thanks!
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Post by OMN on Aug 20, 2012 8:03:35 GMT -6
hey guys! i'm having a wierd issue on the roketa 250.
when i roll backward more than a couple feet, something grabs and makes it hard to push back. i believe it's in the front wheel. i've jacked the scooter up and can roll the front wheel forward with no problem. when i roll it backward, it will go a bit then drag. i don't believe it's the brakes because it happens suddenly and i think i can almost hear an audible mechanical noise.
if it were the rear wheel, i would think cvt issues. but being in the front, that makes no sense!
i think the only 3 possibilities would be the mud flap, the brakes, or the speedo gear assembly on the hub.
has anyone else experienced this?
thanks!
ron
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Post by OMN on Aug 14, 2012 15:28:42 GMT -6
buggin - he and I both took the course a few weeks ago. he only missed one question on the written portion (same one i missed!) and passed the driving portion with a 93. +1 on the MSF course for anyone who rides or wants to ride. fantastic stuff.
ron
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Post by OMN on Aug 13, 2012 20:13:00 GMT -6
Hey everyone! Just a quick word of thanks to all the wise guys on this forum. My son is 14 and about to start riding his '08 Roketa Cyprus 250 to high school. Thanks to some great negotiating by yours truly and the expert advice from this forum, he has a GREAT ride for about $400. (OK $800, but let's don't count the $400 in past-due registration penalties!  ) Anyway, just wanted to say thanks again. Oh and BTW... I ride "big boy" bikes and I've had so much fun on his scooter that I'm going to be riding it to work for the next month before he gets his full license. I really "GET IT" - holy crap, this thing is a blast to twist and go! Now I have to keep my eyes open for a couple more - one for Hot Wife and one for Daddy's Little Girl who will be able to ride next summer. Woohoo! Thanks again, and God bless ron OldManNew |
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Post by OMN on Aug 4, 2012 9:18:30 GMT -6
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Post by OMN on Jul 31, 2012 8:50:59 GMT -6
i have that label on my roketa (same engine i believe)... i looked last night and the little sticker you refer to specifies GL-3 gear oil. +1 on all the recommendations to use 80/90W name-brand gear oil.
ron
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Post by OMN on Jul 2, 2012 8:26:20 GMT -6
generally you want to adjust them toward the loosest tolerance/largest value. in this case, closer to .004 is better than .002 or less, for a couple reasons.
first, smaller valve clearances mean there is a higher chance the valve won't seat properly, resulting in loss of compression, therefore loss of power. when you get toward no clearance at all, meaning the valve is always open to some degree, combustion happens around the valve and burns it up. not a good scenario.
now having too much clearance can mean the valve doesn't open far enough to allow proper intake/exhaust, as well as the engine runs a little noisy because the valve tappets are "slapping" the valves open.
on these scooters (mine as a recent example), you want to be especially sure that the exhaust valve has enough clearance. for whatever reason, if that clearance is off, the scooter will probably die at stop signs. i don't completely understand the theory behind that, but it's definitely fact!
you're in the right place to get advice on keeping that thing running.
cheers!
ron
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Post by OMN on Jun 26, 2012 12:24:26 GMT -6
maybe a vacuum leak? not getting enough fuel on startup? i would try taking off the air filter and squirting a bit of starting fluid into the carb. if it immediately tries to start, initial fuel delivery may be the issue. which could mean either a vacuum leak or a worn-out fuel pump.
my scooter does something similar after not being started for several days. i have to crank and crank to get it going. i'm thinking my issue may be the fuel pump. i'm not a fan of the passive, vacuum-operated pump on my roketa.
anyhoo, i'm sure others will have more and better suggestions. good luck! keep up posted on your progress!
ron
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Post by OMN on Jun 23, 2012 19:47:05 GMT -6
Howdy! OMN here, just giving a quick intro.
Picking up a 2008 Roketa 250 for my son to drive to high school. Gave us fits dying at stop signs, then i found this site. Adjusted the exhaust valve and now it runs great! Just need to service the brakes, cooling system and CVT, then he'll be good to go.
So thanks for a fantastic site with incredible info on these silly things! I'll be checking back as we get this scoot road-ready again over the next couple of months.
Cheers,
Ron
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